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Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX

400K views 2K replies 170 participants last post by  doyll 
#1 ·
Does anyone know if I can fit 2 EK XE 360mm in this case? I've searched online everywhere and I can't seem to find the answer. The closest picture I can find that MIGHT answer my question is posted below.

I want to go with the same setup as pictured, EK XE 360mm up top with AP60s in push and an EK XE 360mm up front with AP60s in push behind the front cover. As far as I can see from the pics the front radiator does go down into the basement of the case. Maybe I have to go with EK's slimmer 360mm radiator up top to be able to fit the 360mm XE in the front?

 
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#2 ·
I don't have that case, but just running the numbers, I don't see how it could fit. The EK XE 360 is 399mm long x 60mm deep. Fans are 25mm deep. 399+60+25=484mm. The Evolv ATX is 495mm tall x 510mm long. Either direction will have at least 1" (25mm) of unusable space just because of the shape. 510-25=485mm. It's likely worse than that, but I don't see detailed enough pictures to say for certain. The pictures on the Phanteks website make it look like the mounting location for the front fans is set back more than the thickness of the actual fans. I would guarantee that even with the top radiator pushed to the back, you can't fit another XE 360 in the front. If you look at using a slim radiator, it could change things, but you'll need someone who can take some good measurements to answer that one for you.

Edit:
I did a rough sketch in AutoCAD scaling from the website picture. I know it's not perfect, but it should give you a better idea of what the case gives you to work with.
 
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#3 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlewbell View Post

I don't have that case, but just running the numbers, I don't see how it could fit. The EK XE 360 is 399mm long x 60mm deep. Fans are 25mm deep. 399+60+25=484mm. The Evolv ATX is 495mm tall x 510mm long. Either direction will have at least 1" (25mm) of unusable space just because of the shape. 510-25=485mm. It's likely worse than that, but I don't see detailed enough pictures to say for certain. The pictures on the Phanteks website make it look like the mounting location for the front fans is set back more than the thickness of the actual fans. I would guarantee that even with the top radiator pushed to the back, you can't fit another XE 360 in the front. If you look at using a slim radiator, it could change things, but you'll need someone who can take some good measurements to answer that one for you.

Edit:
I did a rough sketch in AutoCAD scaling from the website picture. I know it's not perfect, but it should give you a better idea of what the case gives you to work with.
Thanks for the response and the quick CAD scale. I'm going to microcenter later today, I'll pick up a 360mm EK radiator cause I need one regardless of position it will be in the case and I'll do some measurements before I purchase the second radiator.
 
#4 ·
The answer is no. You can put one on the front and only lose some of the rad mount space. Not the worst thing in the world, and you can do a 240mm in the top.

Putting it on top will have the rad blocking half of the CPU block - not the most attractive look, and making it very difficult to work with.

You will notice that the build you pictured has slim rads, which tends to be the go-to for good looking Evolv ATX builds. I know that you are doing thick rads for looks, but in the Evolv ATX it is couterproductive and tends to just look crowded.
 
#5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

The answer is no. You can put one on the front and only lose some of the rad mount space. Not the worst thing in the world, and you can do a 240mm in the top.

Putting it on top will have the rad blocking half of the CPU block - not the most attractive look, and making it very difficult to work with.

You will notice that the build you pictured has slim rads, which tends to be the go-to for good looking Evolv ATX builds. I know that you are doing thick rads for looks, but in the Evolv ATX it is couterproductive and tends to just look crowded.
So I would be able to fit two 360 slim rads? Or a 240/360 is my only option?
 
#6 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toan View Post

So I would be able to fit two 360 slim rads? Or a 240/360 is my only option?
Most of the attempts I have seen required removing the front fan on the top 360 to make it fit. I just popped my case open and looked, and eyeballing it says that would be the only way it would fit (I have a 30mm thick 360 up top).

The best combo with the need to go as large as possible s a 360 on top and 280 or 240mm in the front. This gives you the completely lined with rads look you are going for - remember that the bottom of the front rad is not visible behind the midplate, so a 240 "fills" the space to the eye. Using a 280mm in the front actually looks better, it will line up the two rads front edges. Using a 240 or 360 in the front has the front rad mounted further back than the top rad, not as clean looking - plus the 280mm will outperform a 240, and you have excellent 140mm fans for the application already included with the case.

And if you are set on EK rads, make sure you get the PE 360 even though it is 38mm thick, not the awful SE (which is literally the worst performing rad line out there) - http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/ .
 
#7 ·
As Ciarlatano mentioned, top 360 with front 280 sounds like a good idea. I don't have any water cooling experience, but just calculating based on radiator area leads me to believe the difference between a 360 & a 280 should only be about 10% or so.
360*120=43,200mm^2
280*140=39,200mm^2
 
#8 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlewbell View Post

As Ciarlatano mentioned, top 360 with front 280 sounds like a good idea. I don't have any water cooling experience, but just calculating based on radiator area leads me to believe the difference between a 360 & a 280 should only be about 10% or so.
360*120=43,200mm^2
280*140=39,200mm^2
That is correct. Performance difference is very, very little to none. In this build, where it is obviously going to be way over radded (lol...is that a word?), there would be no performance difference at all. The aesthetics will be far more important, and the ability to utilize the excellent quality F140SP fans included makes it a no brainer.
 
#11 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toan View Post

After reading the review on the EK CE 280, it seems like its not a very good performer. Am I looking at the right one to order?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-coolstream-ce-280-dual.html

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2016/02/21/ek-coolstream-ce-280mm-radiator-review/3/
The performance on it is fine, I'm not sure what you are seeing in that review that would indicate otherwise. The only rad in that review that is more than a few percent better is the Nemesis GTX, which is considerably thicker and too wide to fit through the midplate opening without cutting it, and even then it might not fit.
 
#12 ·
Gotten the Enthoo ATX glass edition on Tuesday earlier this week in Singapore. Probably the first few countries that had it earlier.

20160426_180812_zps2b9wotns.jpg

I was thinking to embark on project Tiny with this case. This case pretty much easy to fit in 360mm radiator at the top. But the front may have a restriction if one has a d5 pump to put at the bottom.

Any reviews on the Bitspower Leviathan Xtreme rads? It looks like HWL rads.
 
#13 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

The best combo with the need to go as large as possible s a 360 on top and 280 or 240mm in the front. This gives you the completely lined with rads look you are going for - remember that the bottom of the front rad is not visible behind the midplate, so a 240 "fills" the space to the eye. Using a 280mm in the front actually looks better, it will line up the two rads front edges. Using a 240 or 360 in the front has the front rad mounted further back than the top rad, not as clean looking - plus the 280mm will outperform a 240, and you have excellent 140mm fans for the application already included with the case.
What about going thick 360 in the front (like a HWL SR2 360 MP specifically since it is very good with low speed fans) and a thinner 280 up top? something like a CE 280 or one of the thinner Alphacool 280 rads, and you could still re-use the excellent Phanteks fans from the front.
 
#15 ·
Keep in mind that there is a major issue doing it that way that you will need to address. The case has a very restrictive top so you will need to block up all of the open areas that the 280 up there is going to leave. Otherwise you will do nothing but recirculate warmer and warmer air to the 280.

That mod you referenced makes the top rad completely useless. The fans have no room to work. In short.....don't do it.
 
#16 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciarlatano View Post

Keep in mind that there is a major issue doing it that way that you will need to address. The case has a very restrictive top so you will need to block up all of the open areas that the 280 up there is going to leave. Otherwise you will do nothing but recirculate warmer and warmer air to the 280.

That mod you referenced makes the top rad completely useless. The fans have no room to work. In short.....don't do it.
This is a very good point I had not considered before, thank you
smile.gif


So assuming 360 PE on top and 280 CE front, is that enough to cool an overclocked 5930K and a 980 Ti and still remain silent?
 
#17 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by DopplerShift View Post

This is a very good point I had not considered before, thank you
smile.gif


So assuming 360 PE on top and 280 CE front, is that enough to cool an overclocked 5930K and a 980 Ti and still remain silent?
It is definitely enough rad space for that. Just don't cheap out on the fans, or buy them for the color rings. Stick with high quality fans - GT, Vardar, eLoop, Phanteks MP and the like.
 
#18 ·
Hey guys,

I'm getting the Evolv ATX (tempered glass) soon and was wondering exactly how thick a rad can be when mounted in the front.. I have my mind set on the XE 360 rad from EK, which is 60mm thick, so I would need at least 85mm (and 110mm for push-pull).
 
#19 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by porro View Post

Hey guys,

I'm getting the Evolv ATX (tempered glass) soon and was wondering exactly how thick a rad can be when mounted in the front.. I have my mind set on the XE 360 rad from EK, which is 60mm thick, so I would need at least 85mm (and 110mm for push-pull).
He mentions for the front the overall room available, so yes 110 should be workable.
 
#20 ·
one thing about this case is trying to keep itopen I think to show it of. I got the case thinking the radiator at tope would go up a bit so you would only see fans, or vice versa. Was disappoined when I realized post purchase how ti worked.. anyway, where there is a will there is way. If you dont mind "modding the case" you can flush fit the radiator up top with the fans in top of case. There is a little bitit more noise slightly but not bad. Unfortunately post this pic I had a major HW crash on the MB so couldn't tune fans further. 240 45mm in Front and 240 30mm up top.


 
#22 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toan View Post

Just finished mine last night. I did mod the top to fit the fans under the top cover.


Nice build.. same mother board I used so yes you had the problem of how to get the motherboard watercooling done with a a rad and fans hanging down.. hope yours doesnt have haeart attack like mine did! nothing to do with watercooling.
 
#23 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricinsing View Post

Nice build.. same mother board I used so yes you had the problem of how to get the motherboard watercooling done with a a rad and fans hanging down.. hope yours doesnt have haeart attack like mine did! nothing to do with watercooling.
Yea that bend from the radiator to the top VRM was tricky. I had to figure out that run with random white fittings from a previous build before I ordered new black ones. It was a real tight fit trying to get my hands on there to tighten all the fittings once I had figured it out.
 
#24 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toan View Post

Yea that bend from the radiator to the top VRM was tricky. I had to figure out that run with random white fittings from a previous build before I ordered new black ones. It was a real tight fit trying to get my hands on there to tighten all the fittings once I had figured it out.
I used a xflow radiator at the top, had it allot easier and gave me a straight run from MB. At the other end was a bit tight, but luckily I 90deg fitting from EK that swives so I could swing it to the side radiator. Hardest run I had was from GPU to CPU, that needed two 90deg bedns 35mm apart... fluked a extended twist turn that somehow turned out ok! Ithink I can only see the defect and will try it again when I get the new MB back in.
 
#26 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost240 View Post

Just want to confirm that you have 360 rad up top and you were still able to fit the back fan in. Also, the mod to fit the fans above the rad, was it hard to fo? And what about how restrictive the top outlet is? Did it have any negative effects? Thanks.
The back fan fits fine. I'm actually going to take it out since it doesn't fit the colors of the build.

The top fan mod is IMHO a 5-6/10 in the "hard" scale as long as you have the correct tools. all you need is either a metal cutting wheel, ruler, some sort of writing tool to mark ( I used a pastel liquid chalk pen), and various levels of grit sandpaper. If you don't have these tools, you could use an electric dremel ( one that plugs in, not the battery operated one) and a handful of "decent" quality metal cutting wheels.

As for temps so far my GPUs hasn't changed from my last loop, synthetic benches and gaming it ranges from 40-45c, for the CPU in synthetic benches and gaming it hovers 50-55c. I'm currently playing Overwatch as I type and my GPUs are at 47/42c respectively and my CPU is at 40c, I've been playing for at least 2 hours now. So it's safe to say that the heat soak from the radiators has already set in and the temps are already where they would be at max.

Personally I do agree that the top fans are a tad bit restricted since there is probably less than 1 inch of space for the air to move out of the vents in the top panel but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
 
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