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Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX - Page 4

post #31 of 1693
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toan View Post

The fitting will MOST likely not fit, unless you have a slim 240/280 in the front and even then it probably won't fit. The end of my 360 almost touches the front of the case and the top of the 280 is at least an inch within the end of that 360 rad, so the end of the 360 goes well past the top of the 280.

You'll most likely have to do it the same way as I did. If you look at my pictures, you can see the "EK" branding on the 360 above the 280.

Thanks. Yeh most likely have to do saem if I change it. Will see how it goes with 2 x 240's, I have a 45mm in front and 30 up top. Reason I really went withthe 240 up top is I could then align the inlet on the rad witht he outlet on motherboard and do a straight run up to it. Goin 30 means I will need to do a special bedn to get to inlet like you had to do. Woudl probaly puta 280 in front before touching top if heat becoms issue but dont htink either way will make a huge difference unless I gett issues going SLi in future.
post #32 of 1693
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricinsing View Post

Thanks. Yeh most likely have to do saem if I change it. Will see how it goes with 2 x 240's, I have a 45mm in front and 30 up top. Reason I really went withthe 240 up top is I could then align the inlet on the rad witht he outlet on motherboard and do a straight run up to it. Goin 30 means I will need to do a special bedn to get to inlet like you had to do. Woudl probaly puta 280 in front before touching top if heat becoms issue but dont htink either way will make a huge difference unless I gett issues going SLi in future.

Doing out of the normal bends when inlets/outlets don't line up isn't too hard. There are plenty of fitting options with dual/triple rotaries that make it a cake walk.

I didn't even plan out my run from the top rad > VRM > CPU and it worked out almost too perfect for me.
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post #33 of 1693
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toan View Post

Doing out of the normal bends when inlets/outlets don't line up isn't too hard. There are plenty of fitting options with dual/triple rotaries that make it a cake walk.

I didn't even plan out my run from the top rad > VRM > CPU and it worked out almost too perfect for me.

Yeh the bendingand fitting not to much of worry, just trying to keep as clean as possible for this build..below is best I coud get from the keep it simple approach.. at one satge I was contemplating a 140 rad on back end withthe fan on outside of case, decided to just go for top at monet to keep open the internals... but if need to go 360 will have to think


Edited by ricinsing - 6/6/16 at 10:04pm
post #34 of 1693
Right now I am likely going to stay with my current setup, but maybe come the holidays I will start a new build (case and loop). I am aware the SE and XE 360s will be a tight fit. I am prepared to make permanent modification if necessary. Other than that, any specific feedback?

Quick rundown:

Case: Evolv ATX Tempered Glass

Rads
- Top: EK SE 360
- Front: EK XE 360

Pump/Res
- EK-DBAY D5 PWM MX - Acetal (custom mounted between PSU and front rad, under PSU cover)

Fans
- Noiseblocker Eloops for the rads (2x top, 3x front)
- 1x Noctua NF-A14 2000rpm Industrial for exhaust
- 1x 120mm x 12mm Syth fan pull mounted on the top (to keep air from recirculating)
- Maybe TT Riing fans (if I do a certain mod)

Tubing
- Straight hard tubing (material undecided. copper, glass, PETG, treated carbon fiber, IDK)

Possible mods
- Glass front panel (would pair with Riing fans)
- Vented top panel (only if I can ensure it can be professionally/cleanly done)

Future Expansion Plans
- Smaller 1000W EVGA GX PSU
- Water cooled SSD (why not?)
- Replace current 980 Ti with 1080 Ti
- Wait for Cannonlake for new CPU and mobo
- Then maybe SLI
- Water cooled RAM
- Maybe a custom acrylic res

Mock-up

* Image is to scale and accurately measured
    
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post #35 of 1693
Quote:
Originally Posted by paskowitz View Post

Right now I am likely going to stay with my current setup, but maybe come the holidays I will start a new build (case and loop). I am aware the SE and XE 360s will be a tight fit. I am prepared to make permanent modification if necessary. Other than that, any specific feedback?

Quick rundown:

Case: Evolv ATX Tempered Glass

Rads
- Top: EK SE 360
- Front: EK XE 360

Pump/Res
- EK-DBAY D5 PWM MX - Acetal (custom mounted between PSU and front rad, under PSU cover)

Fans
- Noiseblocker Eloops for the rads (2x top, 3x front)
- 1x Noctua NF-A14 2000rpm Industrial for exhaust
- 1x 120mm x 12mm Syth fan pull mounted on the top (to keep air from recirculating)
- Maybe TT Riing fans (if I do a certain mod)

Tubing
- Straight hard tubing (material undecided. copper, glass, PETG, treated carbon fiber, IDK)

Possible mods
- Glass front panel (would pair with Riing fans)
- Vented top panel (only if I can ensure it can be professionally/cleanly done)

Future Expansion Plans
- Smaller 1000W EVGA GX PSU
- Water cooled SSD (why not?)
- Replace current 980 Ti with 1080 Ti
- Wait for Cannonlake for new CPU and mobo
- Then maybe SLI
- Water cooled RAM
- Maybe a custom acrylic res

Mock-up

* Image is to scale and accurately measured


Certainly going to be a hi end build. Just a couple of things

- The case is not that big, depending on what look your going for if you waterblock everything you want to do I woudl go for a bigger full tower style case.. SM-8 will be the style of case I go for when do a large build. You will be modding allot. ike the Idea of modding top of case to let more air in.. will be looking into it once I do some airflow tests.

- Intrestied on fan setup, so you ae going to go for 2 push and 1 pull on the same rad with different fans? Not sure I get it? I undersand the eloops have issue with setup on a rad, i.e you can only do Push due to design and if you are going to mount them in a modded top the space is tight. Do you plan to have rad and fans below the holder? If so then you will run into use maybe with all the water loop you want have. IF you get a 360 up there the re-circualtion issue shoud not be too bad if at all,

- You will certainly have time to thnk about it, Cannonlak not out till around Q2 next year so by then who knows what will be available!
post #36 of 1693
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricinsing View Post

Certainly going to be a hi end build. Just a couple of things

- The case is not that big, depending on what look your going for if you waterblock everything you want to do I woudl go for a bigger full tower style case.. SM-8 will be the style of case I go for when do a large build. You will be modding allot. ike the Idea of modding top of case to let more air in.. will be looking into it once I do some airflow tests.

- Intrestied on fan setup, so you ae going to go for 2 push and 1 pull on the same rad with different fans? Not sure I get it? I undersand the eloops have issue with setup on a rad, i.e you can only do Push due to design and if you are going to mount them in a modded top the space is tight. Do you plan to have rad and fans below the holder? If so then you will run into use maybe with all the water loop you want have. IF you get a 360 up there the re-circualtion issue shoud not be too bad if at all,

- You will certainly have time to thnk about it, Cannonlak not out till around Q2 next year so by then who knows what will be available!

Thanks for the reply.

While I am sure it would be easier to work in, I actually like the idea of squeezing everything in there. I do wish the Evolv ATX had another inch or two of height. Caselabs is also very expensive... not that you don't get what you pay for. As for the cutting vents in the top, that would be to let hot air out.

Thanks for the heads up on the Noiseblockers. I guess I could use a fan gasket as a spacer, but that doesn't mean the acoustics will be good. I'll have to experiment. In terms of airflow. the top would be push with a single thin pull fan on the right. The pull fan is there because of the recirculation issue. This fan isn't going to pull much air away from the radiator, but it will ensure warm air doesn't flow back into the main chamber. If this setup doesn't work I have no problem going with a 280 up top. The front rad would be push pull. The fans would be on the holder, then the rad, and then the pull fans on the rad. The rad would be orientated with the ports at the top. IIRC this is the only way it will fit.

I do have plenty of time. It's not like my current setup is not cutting it, it just doesn't give me space to cool an SLI config. Who knows, I may even go scratch built if I can muster the determination to learn CAD.
    
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post #37 of 1693
Hey all,

Over the next two months or so I'll be undergoing a new build in a Tempered Glass Evolv Atx. I'm pretty much just waiting on the case at this point.


Here is a VERY ROUGH mock up in Sketchup of some of the rads/mobo/cards, etc. Feel free to use as needed (combo of files found online). Google Drive download link here.

Parts:
  • Alpha Cool 360x30 xflow Radiator
  • Alpha Cool 240x45 xflow Radiator
  • Clear PETG
  • EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock
  • EK 1080 water block or EVGA hydrocoper (not added yet)
  • XSPC 170 res/d5 pump combo
post #38 of 1693
I need a favor. I just got 3 Want San Ace 120 x 38mm fans without thinking if it'll actually fit in the Evolv. Looking at some pics online there doesn't seem to be any additional space in front of the stock fans and the filter. Can one of you guys kindly check for me please. Thanks.
post #39 of 1693
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost240 View Post

I need a favor. I just got 3 Want San Ace 120 x 38mm fans without thinking if it'll actually fit in the Evolv. Looking at some pics online there doesn't seem to be any additional space in front of the stock fans and the filter. Can one of you guys kindly check for me please. Thanks.

Correct, you would have to remove the dust filter as there is less that about 8mm clearance. The dust filter has the retaining holes for the front cover in it as well so you actually need to modify the filter to retain the frame with clips. The front cover would pose a problem then for 3 fans as the lower fan would be blocked by the HDD light bar that protrudes about 8mm aswell into the cavity so unless you modify that you could only run 2 fans.

I run 3 TT Riing 120mm x 25mm in the front.
post #40 of 1693
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricinsing View Post

Correct, you would have to remove the dust filter as there is less that about 8mm clearance. The dust filter has the retaining holes for the front cover in it as well so you actually need to modify the filter to retain the frame with clips. The front cover would pose a problem then for 3 fans as the lower fan would be blocked by the HDD light bar that protrudes about 8mm aswell into the cavity so unless you modify that you could only run 2 fans.

I run 3 TT Riing 120mm x 25mm in the front.

I was afraid of that. Ah well. Thanks.
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