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Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX - Page 50

post #491 of 1025
Hello everyone. So I purchased this case about two months ago, and while I love the looks and build quality I hate how bad the airflow is. I'm planing to go hard tubing and I'm considering the options to maybe increase cooling performance by tweaking some things here and there. Right now I'm cooling i7 6700k OC 4.6/1.31v and RX480 OC 1380/2200 that should produce around 350w all together with other components. I'm using EK 240 XTX, EK 240 Slim and Ek 120mm standard PE edition and with vardar fans around 1400rpm I get around 15 degrees celsius delta T from ambient while gaming for around an hour. I sealed off all the holes at the top, so air cant get back to the case and I even cut a hole at the top panel (there's now an aluminium mesh on it, the picture is few day old) and that dropped temperatures for about 5 degrees or maybe around 7-9 if I remove the mesh. And yes that means my delta T was around 20 degrees before the mod.
I'm now thinking of maybe removing the 120mm radiator and put front radiator in push pull configuration while top radiator stays push exhaust and a single airflow fan at the back as exhaust, do you think that could improve temperatures?
Or maybe front rad as it is (or push pull) and top push intake and only one airflow fan as exhaust? but I believe that would just trap a lot of hot air in the case and could be counter productive.
I can see a lot of you tried many different configs in this case and maybe someone have any better idea on how to improve my temps as this right now is really bad as my CPU temps are around same level as they were with a cheap sub 40€ air cooler with way more noise being produced.
I've tried all possible fan mounting options with the setup I have now except front being exhaust.. this means front+top intakes and back exhaust.. pretty much same as it is now just more dust. And front and back intake and top exhaust which was much worse.
I can get around 10 DT with fans of full speed but that's 3x2250rpm (Front and back) and 2x1850rpm (top), while only the XTX should be able to handle around 300W alone to maintain 10 delta T with fans on 1800rpm.
I'm really desperate as I'm throwing more and more money in liquid cooling to just get more noise and no performance increase.
I know my radiator setup is not perfect but I migrated from NZXT s340 and this is what I got. I added the fat XTX rad and a better DDC 3.2pwm pump (had the budget ek SPC before) in this case and I got pretty much ZERO improvements on temps (but hey, at least it looks dope biggrin.gif).
I've opened a thread when I got the case in this section, but I didn't know it's the airflow problem back then, so now I've decided to post here too, hoping some EVOLV user have any suggestions.

Here are some pics:




Edited by ookiie - 3/8/17 at 11:16am
post #492 of 1025
Quote:
Originally Posted by ookiie View Post

Hello everyone. So I purchased this case about two months ago, and while I love the looks and build quality I hate how bad the airflow is. I'm planing to go hard tubing and I'm considering the options to maybe increase cooling performance by tweaking some things here and there. Right now I'm cooling i7 6700k OC 4.6/1.31v and RX480 OC 1380/2200 that should produce around 350w all together with other components. I'm using EK 240 XTX, EK 240 Slim and Ek 120mm standard PE edition and with vardar fans around 1400rpm I get around 15 degrees celsius delta T from ambient while gaming for around an hour. I sealed off all the holes at the top, so air cant get back to the case and I even cut a hole at the top panel (there's now an aluminium mesh on it, the picture is few day old) and that dropped temperatures for about 5 degrees or maybe around 7-9 if I remove the mesh. And yes that means my delta T was around 20 degrees before the mod.
I'm now thinking of maybe removing the 120mm radiator and put front radiator in push pull configuration while top radiator stays push exhaust and a single airflow fan at the back as exhaust, do you think that could improve temperatures?
Or maybe front rad as it is (or push pull) and top push intake and only one airflow fan as exhaust? but I believe that would just trap a lot of hot air in the case and could be counter productive.
I can see a lot of you tried many different configs in this case and maybe someone have any better idea on how to improve my temps as this right now is really bad as my CPU temps are around same level as they were with a cheap sub 40€ air cooler with way more noise being produced.
I've tried all possible fan mounting options with the setup I have now except front being exhaust.. this means front+top intakes and back exhaust.. pretty much same as it is now just more dust. And front and back intake and top exhaust which was much worse.
I can get around 10 DT with fans of full speed but that's 3x2250rpm (Front and back) and 2x1850rpm (top), while only the XTX should be able to handle around 300W alone to maintain 10 delta T with fans on 1800rpm.
I'm really desperate as I'm throwing more and more money in liquid cooling to just get more noise and no performance increase.
I know my radiator setup is not perfect but I migrated from NZXT s340 and this is what I got. I added the fat XTX rad and a better DDC 3.2pwm pump (had the budget ek SPC before) in this case and I got pretty much ZERO improvements on temps (but hey, at least it looks dope biggrin.gif).
I've opened a thread when I got the case in this section, but I didn't know it's the airflow problem back then, so now I've decided to post here too, hoping some EVOLV user have any suggestions.

Here are some pics:




Have you tried/tested your temp delta with the front panel removed? In my "testing" I have found that the front panel really restricts intake. even if you pull it off and have it resting in the mount holes instead of being pushed in and secured, it seems to drop idle temps by +- 4-6c. Im planning on having perforations water jetted into the top and front, hopefully that will address the airflow issues or at least improve it.
post #493 of 1025
Hi ookiie I have a few ideas.


- Remove the 120mm rad from the loop.

- Perform the front panel spacer mod which is ultra simple as show in the thread here this is a must do especially considering how thick your front rad is: http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?550-Airflow-improvements-your-Evolv-ATX-Tempered-Glass-case-Two-(new-)-easy-tricks!!!

- Reposition the res like the picture below to allow better airflow from front.



- Check these benchmarks of the 360 ver of your front rad as you can see you notice this rad performs better in push pull setup so it's worth testing it out as well if the other ideas don't help. http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/03/05/ek-xtx-360-radiator-review/5/

Since you are using soft tubing at the moment you can play around a few setups without much issues.
post #494 of 1025
Quote:
Originally Posted by HippoLOL View Post

Hi ookiie I have a few ideas.


- Remove the 120mm rad from the loop.

- Perform the front panel spacer mod which is ultra simple as show in the thread here this is a must do especially considering how thick your front rad is: http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?550-Airflow-improvements-your-Evolv-ATX-Tempered-Glass-case-Two-(new-)-easy-tricks!!!

- Reposition the res like the picture below to allow better airflow from front.



- Check these benchmarks of the 360 ver of your front rad as you can see you notice this rad performs better in push pull setup so it's worth testing it out as well if the other ideas don't help. http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/03/05/ek-xtx-360-radiator-review/5/

Since you are using soft tubing at the moment you can play around a few setups without much issues.

Thanks for the idea for front panel mod.. I was thinking of mounting longer screws but this with rubber washers is really clean. I had some ideas if I remove the 120mm rad I can mount the res at the back as it's easier for filling if it's vertical. I saw that review of the 360mm xtx.. it will probably add just as much performace going push pull that I will loose with removing the 120mm rad.. I just hope airflow will improve so temps actually go down.. I will try rearanging the loop in the weekend and I'll post my results biggrin.gif
post #495 of 1025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baylenkm View Post



Have you tried/tested your temp delta with the front panel removed? In my "testing" I have found that the front panel really restricts intake. even if you pull it off and have it resting in the mount holes instead of being pushed in and secured, it seems to drop idle temps by +- 4-6c. Im planning on having perforations water jetted into the top and front, hopefully that will address the airflow issues or at least improve it.

So the front panel I used the other screws in the box and gave myself an addtion 3-4mm clearance. It's helped a bit for me but it's somewhat negligible. My biggest hindrance is the top lid as that effects my temps by up to 4-5c. However, I do not have bad temps with minimal fan noise. You need to remove the rear rad as it's not needed and not doing much. You need to make sure your front intake is actually getting air thru nicely and your venting well. For a thick rad to work well you need push/pull. This case is very sensitive to rad choice due to it's air flow and size restrictions. Seeing you wanna run push pull in the front (keep in mind your really gonna challenge your gpu length unless you re-position the res). I have tried many different rads in this case. Most of them were thick rads as that's all I had. However, swapping to 2 good slim rads made the best improvement. I am under d10 with 1 set of fans on each rad. My fan speed never goes over 1500rpm. It sucks at times to reinvest hardware you already bought or bought many times but it's just works. Look at the people with the best temps in this thread, you will see they all have slim low-medium fpi.
post #496 of 1025
What @nycgtr said. The front is a little restrictive, but not as much as many other cases. The gap all around the front is a lot of airflow area, especially because it has no grill or mesh to restrict it more like most front vents do. If your radiator & fans are giving you 4-6c better temps it is more likely a radiator or fan issue than front vent area.

The top is restrictive, but removing the mesh grills on top vents

Enthoo Evolv ATX top vents
The top has vents in the ends as well as side vents.
End Vents:
Ends have 37x open slots 5.5mm x 12.9 mm = 26.3 sq cm of end airflow area.
Side Vents:
10x vents 5 mm x 61.6 mm = 30.8 sq cm side vent area - grill mesh blockage
Mesh has cc 0.85 mm holes with 1.6 mm spacing, so about cc 20% open = 6.1 sq cm of airflow area from 10x stock side vents
Stock venting with mesh has an open area of about 32.4 sq cm
With stock mesh removed it is 56.8 sq cm.
Removing the mesh increases top vent area by about 24.5 sq cm

By comparison a single 120mm fan has about 100 sq cm of open area.

Keep in mind that if top top fan radiator mount is used, all open areas not having fans must be sealed so air being pushed into the top cannot circle back down into case.

The simplest way to get more top airflow is to remove the 4 top mounting screws (2x in back and 2x in front ), pop the top loose and rest it back on the clip mounts.
This raised top 5.5 mm creating a 3mm gap on sides and 5.5mm on front. Case is 505 mm deep x 23.5 mm wide
0.5cm x 23.5cm x 2 = 23.5 sq cm
0.3cm x 50.5cm x 2 = 30.3 sq cm
Additiona l top vent = 53.8 sq cm
53.8 sq cm additional vent by simply removing top mounting screws and setting top on latches.

32.4 sq cm stock top venting.
56.8 sq cm airflow area with side vent mesh removed
110.6 sq cm airflow area with side vent mesh removed and top set on latches

Only draw back is to use top on/off switch, top must be latched back down or lifted off.
A 5.5mm spacer could be added by putting a screw into the push button in top, but thern if someone pushed too hard on the top micro-switch could be broken. I would not recommend it unless the latches in top of case are also spaced up the same amount.

And of course seal all holes not having fans in them in the top fan / radiator mount.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13240_20#post_25198233

Here is link to how to remove top and block holes in radiator bracket.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315

I had to space the front out 15mm to approx. double the front airflow area .. and while component temps did improve a few degrees, there was no dramatic change.

Here is link to how to remove top and block holes in radiator bracket.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-case-club-for-lovers-owners/13700_20#post_25268315

Edited by doyll - 4/23/17 at 12:07am
post #497 of 1025
Does it make sense to put a fanless radiator at the top of the case? Should it be slim or fat if it is fanless? I want a totally silent system at idle so I'm thinking a fanless radiator up top and an active radiator on the front that only turns on under load.
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post #498 of 1025
Quote:
Originally Posted by aberrero View Post

Does it make sense to put a fanless radiator at the top of the case? Should it be slim or fat if it is fanless? I want a totally silent system at idle so I'm thinking a fanless radiator up top and an active radiator on the front that only turns on under load.

What hardware will you be using? And what size radiator?

EDIT: Also, your pump will likely be louder than fans at low RPM's.
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post #499 of 1025
Quote:
Originally Posted by aberrero View Post

Does it make sense to put a fanless radiator at the top of the case? Should it be slim or fat if it is fanless? I want a totally silent system at idle so I'm thinking a fanless radiator up top and an active radiator on the front that only turns on under load.

From what I've seen the only way to get an (almost) completely silent system is to either use a custom built chassis with heavy padding and very low TDP parts with passive heatsinks and one or two precisely placed low RPM fans, or having an overkill amount of radiators, 600 RPM fans, two pumps running at low RPM, and no HDD's. Complete silence is a rather challenging project to undertake.
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post #500 of 1025
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sazexa View Post

What hardware will you be using? And what size radiator?

EDIT: Also, your pump will likely be louder than fans at low RPM's.

Yes, I am looking for recommendations for a very quiet pump. I'm doing a ryzen build with one (maybe two) GTX 1080s. My current system of a 4690k and 1080 can run fanless with air cooling on the card and a 240mm AIO on the CPU. The card spins up to do anything 3D but the CPU can handle moderate workloads without fans. Ryzen is more efficient than intels chips, and with some undercooking I think this can be very doable.
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