Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › The Little Big Bullitt - a caselabs bh4 Bullet build
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Little Big Bullitt - a caselabs bh4 Bullet build - Page 35

post #341 of 458
Thread Starter 
All gear at home and ready to use it. Need to set up the compressor and gun and test it first. Meanwhile last touches on the outer shell now ready to take the new paint:

2858662
2858663
2858664
2858665
2858666
post #342 of 458
How did you get all the powder coating off between all the little vents/grills?
post #343 of 458
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post

How did you get all the powder coating off between all the little vents/grills?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VWUAFLurmU about 2 minutes in the video.


and here in action




so it really helps a lot removing the coat. The grill needed 3 runs to get rid of all. Specially because have 3 coats. The original white, the silver one and the varnish (green).
post #344 of 458
Thanks, I saw that post but never clicked on the video rolleyes.gif
post #345 of 458
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barefooter View Post

Thanks, I saw that post but never clicked on the video rolleyes.gif

It really works well. It is nasty stuff however, no smell, but burns the skin in contact.

Let see if I get good results with this:

2858810


I have a friend coming from UK in 10 or so days. Might ask him to bring me either the IWata LPH80 or the Devilbiss SRI pro (lite or smart). Having two guns will make life easier with paint jobs requiring primer/basecoat, coat and varnish. Specially with the paint I got which is really "industrial" in the sense of very short cure time. After 3 hours only the case should be ready for use. Not sure the difference between the smart x lite models:

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90

I might go with TS cap and 1.0 mm or 1.2 mm needle. Hey B (@B NEGATIVE) do you known the difference between the two (lite x smart)?
Edited by Gabrielzm - 8/25/16 at 3:05pm
post #346 of 458
Don't paint the bare aluminum ! It looks good as is biggrin.gif
post #347 of 458
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUFinside View Post

Don't paint the bare aluminum ! It looks good as is biggrin.gif

Lol I known, it does look good. Derp moment:




completely forgot about the hd plate. Need to strip down too. doh.gif
post #348 of 458
Thread Starter 
A little tutorial on how to make a new screw post to take the hex nut to fix windows and accessories. @XNine gave me the initial idea but I could not manage to make it work with epoxi glue and so far I was using the laser weld in a local shop to get the work done. It worked great but is not home made and takes time. Combining Xnine idea with the way the laser shop does I come up with a tested solution now. The reason I had to go into that trouble is that two of the previous posts that were laser welded fall out during the sanding of the case to get rid of the paint layers. I know now why that happen and that was the drive to test this(color code: yellow = original caselabs post; blue = laser shop weld screw; red = epoxy secured screw post):

2860195
kt1Qyg4l.jpg
Ce0bf6dl.jpg

after sanding down:

2860198
2860199
2860200
2860201

perfect solid and here is the deal and how to make it:

drill a hole in your case just a little larger than the screw post/hex nut you are using. This is a critical step beacuse if you don't drill the hole the amount of material (epoxy or weld) securing the screw is not enough to hold it secured in place and usually will fall off with use. The hole will give extra strength and enough material to get hold of the screw. I used this screws from PPC (6-32 if memory serves) and cut the length I needed. I used a bench mini saw but you can do it manually too.



then I took a piece of epoxy glue (too much to be honest as you can judge by the picture above), fill in the hole with some surplus on the other side and inserted the screw post on it making sure the post does not go all the way to the other side and seats around midway inside the hole. This is the critical step folks. If you insert the screw post too much very little material (either the laser weld or the epoxy weld) will be left to secure the screw once you sand down to give it the finish from the outside. And with that the screw post will fall out easily with use. Wait 12 hours and then sand it down and voila. You got yourself a new screw post.


Edited by Gabrielzm - 8/27/16 at 7:16pm
post #349 of 458
Wow, that's a lovely tutorial on re-doing the screw posts!

I hope not to have to ever do that to mine though, lol!
They are good screw post inserts that CaseLabs uses, but I guess modding and stripping them can require re-doing the screws.
Idk, perhaps there could be a better screw post system that would be more mod-resistant, and easier to re-do if needed.
But keeping the panel smooth and stealth with the screw inserts, after powder-coating, or painting in your case, isn't an easy thing.

Thanks so much for posting the tutorial on the screws, and a Rep+ to you, good sir!cheers.gif
S8 Build
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5775C ASUS Maximus VII Hero Titan Xp GSkill DDR3-2133 16GB  
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB Air until the loop upgrade Win10 Pro Acer Predator XB271HU 
KeyboardPowerCase
Ducky One TKL UK/ISO Custom EVGA SuperNOVA 1200P2 CaseLabs S8 White 
  hide details  
Reply
S8 Build
(11 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5775C ASUS Maximus VII Hero Titan Xp GSkill DDR3-2133 16GB  
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 850 EVO 500GB Air until the loop upgrade Win10 Pro Acer Predator XB271HU 
KeyboardPowerCase
Ducky One TKL UK/ISO Custom EVGA SuperNOVA 1200P2 CaseLabs S8 White 
  hide details  
Reply
post #350 of 458
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerComissar View Post

Wow, that's a lovely tutorial on re-doing the screw posts!

I hope not to have to ever do that to mine though, lol!
They are good screw post inserts that CaseLabs uses, but I guess modding and stripping them can require re-doing the screws.
Idk, perhaps there could be a better screw post system that would be more mod-resistant, and easier to re-do if needed.
But keeping the panel smooth and stealth with the screw inserts, after powder-coating, or painting in your case, isn't an easy thing.

Thanks so much for posting the tutorial on the screws, and a Rep+ to you, good sir!cheers.gif


Oh I had to do it because new windows or new stuff you want to fix it to the case you don't have those screw post. So for the top window 6 new post had to be made from scratch. For the reservoir I originally made 4 new ones but only the top 2 remains. cheers.gif
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Case Mod Work Logs
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › The Little Big Bullitt - a caselabs bh4 Bullet build