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Project Open Core: Liquid P5, Hardline Tubing, Illuminated System Panel, VR Ready - Page 5

post #41 of 116
i really like that solution with the strip... looks great!
post #42 of 116
Can you make us a diagram of some sorts to show how you wired up the strips for the Vid card?
post #43 of 116
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwisdaman View Post

Can you make us a diagram of some sorts to show how you wired up the strips for the Vid card?

Didn't really do any special wiring. I soldered the 4 wires to the RGB strip like what is shown here, dyed everything black, then stuck them to the acrylic with double sided transparent tape. This picture should make everything pretty clear.



You can see the wire going down from the block to the bottom left. I ended up routing those wires behind the card so when its mounted vertically on the case, you can't really see them.
Edited by Mr_Armageddon - 6/14/16 at 8:36am
    
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post #44 of 116
Ok so you have a 4 wire strip of lights, I have some extra white lights laying around somewhere that's just 2 wire I think. I'll have to dig those up and see about making this same mod on my graphics card. I just need to find an extra connector.
post #45 of 116
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwisdaman View Post

Ok so you have a 4 wire strip of lights, I have some extra white lights laying around somewhere that's just 2 wire I think. I'll have to dig those up and see about making this same mod on my graphics card. I just need to find an extra connector.

Ya, the 2 wire will work fine for white. The only thing you get with the 4 wire type is the ability to change colors.
    
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post #46 of 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_Armageddon View Post

Ya, the 2 wire will work fine for white. The only thing you get with the 4 wire type is the ability to change colors.

Right. To expand on that for others knowledge.... if I am out of place just tell me.

Two wire LED strips are typically power (+) and ground (-). They can either be on or off. And if you want to get fancy you can turn them on and off faster than the eye can see to create a dimming effect. This is called pulse width modulation (PWM). These type of strips are not always white LED's and can be any color.

LED strips with four connections have the same power (+) and ground (-) hookups, but will also include data in and data out lines. Each LED element along the strip is actually 3 LEDs in one package. One red, one green, and one blue, or RGB. There are different methods and all strips do not work the same but the basic concept is to somehow send a string of data down the line which tells each individual group of three LEDs what percentage it should be "on". This is achieved by PWM as mentioned above. Combining different levels of red, green, and blue allow you to effectively display some 16 million different colors.

Just thought I'd share.

Carry on! thumb.gif
post #47 of 116
Thread Starter 
You pretty much covered it!
    
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post #48 of 116
Thread Starter 
Project Open Core: Hardware - Fittings

I have used Bitspower fittings in a few of my past builds. Haven’t had any issues with them, but they are pretty expensive as far as fittings go. This go around, I decided to give Barrow fittings a shot. I have read on various forums they are physically the same as Bitspower, but much less expensive, and they have a matte black finish instead of shiny black likes Bitspower do. I still have a few select bitspower fittings, but the majority will be Barrow for this build.



Also decided to change out the o-rings for all the fittings to better match the theme of the build. Went with Monsoon replacement o-rings. They look pretty good when installed, and are nice and thick.



For the hardline tubing, decided to go with Monsoon fittings as well. They have the same matte black finish as the barrow fittings, and are really easy to install and tighten with the included tool the kit comes with.



For my drain port, I am using a combination of a Bitspower ball shutoff valve, and a Phobya Quick Disconnect Valve. On a rotary fitting, it sits sung under the radiator, but can swivel out for easy access to drain the loop. The setup works really well. Swing it out, attach the female end of the QDC and tubing going to a bucket, then turn the ball valve. Simple and quick system flush.



You may have noticed in the first picture above, I had a Bitspower flow indicator with the rest of the fittings. After seeing another option, decided to change it out for one made by AlphaCool . I like the shape, and it matches the overall look of the build better.



The only thing I don’t like is that ugly yellow spin wheel. While one side is blue, I doubt I will be able to see that when the Blue Pastel fluid is going through it. Don’t want any yellow showing (yuck), so used the good ole Vinyl dye to change to color to black.



Color change completed, I put it back together, and tested it with the fluid. The black looks great, and much better than yellow. I may also install a very dim LED behind the indicator, but will test that out once I have the Pastel Blue fluid in the loops.




For High Resolution versions of all photos from this build log, pleas check out the Album on Flickr.
https://www.flickr.com/gp/24705522@N05/yB94Z9
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post #49 of 116
Barrow fittings are excellent quality, I have them in my sig rig and they will be in my new skylake build also. The BP thing is a myth, but they are as good of quality as any major name brand water cooling fitting on the market.
 
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post #50 of 116
I'm looking for Barrows fittings for my next build, but other than Amazon I haven't been able to locate any.
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