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[Official] NVIDIA GTX 1080 Owner's Club - Page 326

post #3251 of 11235
Quote:
Originally Posted by geggeg View Post

That drop in boost clocks is ASIC dependent btw, so don't take that chart for granted. Having said that, GPU Boost 3.0 is more trouble than benefit. Variable Vcore tied to GPU Boost and outside manual control is just another step towards the greenlight wall.

i always suspected that since not all maxwell cards, but the majority show that behavior and never at the same temps; anywhere form 62c to 74c; which took a bios mod to relieve it.
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post #3252 of 11235
Quote:
Originally Posted by xer0h0ur View Post

If you're hitting 2150 stable at any point then you got a good card. I can't push much past 2114 stable and I am waterblocked. As is the 2100 MHz mark is generally speaking considered to be above average already. The outstanding cards are hitting 2200MHz but there really aren't many doing that.
I wonder if I'm doing all good ? Or maybe wrong ? I've been playing with this card for only a few hours ... redface.gif

Did you max voltage/power limit/temp limit to the max ? That's what I did in afterburner. Then I was increaseing clocks until driver crash...
Correct ? redface.gif
post #3253 of 11235
Quote:
Originally Posted by fat4l View Post

I wonder if I'm doing all good ? Or maybe wrong ? I've been playing with this card for only a few hours ... redface.gif

Did you max voltage/power limit/temp limit to the max ? That's what I did in afterburner. Then I was increaseing clocks until driver crash...
Correct ? redface.gif

I literally did that. I cranked the power limit and core voltage then started bumping the GPU clock 25MHz at a time. Something like 6 benchmarks later I figured out I couldn't push +250MHz on the core clock and I was perfectly stable at +225 so I just left it there. So my current settings are:

Core Voltage: +100%
Power Limit: 120%
Core Clock: +225
Mem Clock: +575

Load temp of 41C using those settings and a resulting GPU boost clock of 2114MHz.
post #3254 of 11235
Quote:
Originally Posted by geggeg View Post

That drop in boost clocks is ASIC dependent btw, so don't take that chart for granted. Having said that, GPU Boost 3.0 is more trouble than benefit. Variable Vcore tied to GPU Boost and outside manual control is just another step towards the greenlight wall.

That would explain why some people see it and some don't.

Hmm...you're talking about GPU Boost in general, then? I'm not sure I follow. This is what Intel does with CPUs: besides your maximum overclock and maximum Vcore, it creates its own "voltage / frequency" curve at lower CPU loads. That hasn't inhibited CPU overclocking--I think the vast majority of Intel overclockers run with all C-states and EIST enabled these days.

And, wait, doesn't GPU Boost 3.0 allow you to tweak that, with the new V/F curve? Isn't that manual control?

But, otherwise, yes. I was sad when Nvidia started Greenlight. But, I don't know--I give them a bit of credit here. Intel could've done that years ago, but they never did: you can run 3V through a modern Intel processor, even on Intel-designed motherboards. I do think GPUs might be more fragile to high voltage / high temperatures than CPUs. But, for those of us with good cooling--yup, it's a bummer. frown.gif
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post #3255 of 11235
Intel, or more specifically motherboard makers, allow for fixed manual voltage without any changes as well. This is not yet possible with BIOS that support GPU Boost 3.0. That's what I was referring to, in that you can set voltage states but they will still fluctuate and this will affect other parameters.
post #3256 of 11235
Quote:
Originally Posted by fewness View Post

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v80), quality = 95

Does anyone know if I can simply short those three, instead of solder resistors on top of them? What could go wrong? I mean the voltage is limited anyway, right?

Can I just use pencil to draw a line on each of them? rolleyes.gif

User solder only ideally. If you can't do that, use wire.

Using anything else is bad practice and bad advice.
post #3257 of 11235
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikjadoon View Post




sozo.gifsozo.gifsozo.gif

Yeesh. I shouldn't have posted it yet. It's not Tom's Hardware--it's Anandtech. We'll all figure out exactly how they got those results tomorrow.

Let me throw out a reasonable situation that actually means Nvidia further optimized for water-cooling (and not that they're "retarded", for Pete's sake).

Maybe in GPU Boost 2.0, that GPU would've maxed out at 1820MHz--on air or water. Running it higher voltages/frequencies may have increased the rate of voltage/heat-induced degradation. However, if NVIDIA can confirm that the GPU die is cool enough and that heat-related degradation is reduced, why not ramp it up? So, in GPU Boost 3.0, they've allowed water-cooled systems to go higher.


This is not unprecedented. How many motherboards offer a fix for cold bugs for LN2 users? Plenty of the high-end ones. Are you complaining, "WHAT? WHY DON'T THEY...UM...Umm...um...why don't they offer that for air users, too?! How DARE they throttle us? How DARE they? Everyone, boycott Gigabyte, ASUS, MSI, and EVGA. They throttle for air users, but not for LN2 users!"

Put down your shoddy pitchforks. Or at least stow them away for tomorrow, you boobs. cheers.gif

I don't trust Anand for anything but benchmarks. Even then....

I'm still calling BS. My pitchfork is down for the time being however a 39c throttle is not happening. It would have been reported.
post #3258 of 11235
Flow rate in the WC loop either in parallel or series makes SFA different IMHO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nexxusty View Post

User solder only ideally. If you can't do that, use wire.

Using anything else is bad practice and bad advice.

Doing that mod doesn't remove or change the power limits. I've done it to my Gigabyte. All it did was decrease the reported power usage.. but it still limited and reported limited to GPUz

Only a custom bios removed that limit.. Asus Strixx OC bios to be precise.
post #3259 of 11235
so I just flashed my Zotac FE with the "waterforce" bios and got a black screen... I've spent the last two hours trying to flash it back.. (i"m on water so I had to drain and disconnect and move to another slot)
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post #3260 of 11235
How are the Gigabyte G1 Gaming cards this time round? Any good news or bad news about them?
They are currently available on pre-order on Amazon for 650 bucks which is about maximum I am willing to pay smile.gif.
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