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[Official] NVIDIA GTX 1080 Owner's Club - Page 553

post #5521 of 11174
Quote:
Originally Posted by LolCakeLazors View Post

You could just build the computer out of a case and run it on the motherboard box. You probably should in the first place to test if all the components work. The 1080ti will probably come up early next year to coincide with Zen.

Thanks for the reply, and I would build early, but I'm going to be doing a custom loop for WC'ing my rig. The CPU I'm buying doesn't have a fan with it, and no way to control temps. Would rather not spend more than the crazy amount of $ that I've already put on my CC lol. This computer enthusiast stuff is addicting and I'm trying to behave. I'll probably buy another FTW and just get 2 WB from EK when they actually become available. Thanks
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post #5522 of 11174
Guys who have modded their cards to use watercooler, help me here...

I'm going to buy a copper shim to use on my FTW. Since it has those fingers on the heatplate, a copper shim is needed to get the waterblock in contact with the die (pic below).
FTW Heatplate Fingers (Click to show)

My question is: how thick should this copper shim be? I could only find up to 2mm thickness, should that be enough to overcome the heatplate?

Thanks in advance.
post #5523 of 11174
Quote:
Originally Posted by GanGstaOne View Post

I've seen people with FE and Strix T4 with good performace but with water
thats cuz of no tdp limits. I dotn have tdp limits as I done the hard mod.
Bios itself is no good..
post #5524 of 11174
Quote:
Originally Posted by juniordnz View Post

Guys who have modded their cards to use watercooler, help me here...

I'm going to buy a copper shim to use on my FTW. Since it has those fingers on the heatplate, a copper shim is needed to get the waterblock in contact with the die (pic below).
FTW Heatplate Fingers (Click to show)

My question is: how thick should this copper shim be? I could only find up to 2mm thickness, should that be enough to overcome the heatplate?

Thanks in advance.

You can find on reddit that guys are using even 1mm thick shim with G10 and 1080 FTW but better use 1.5mm if you can get one but 2mm works too
post #5525 of 11174
For anyone that has 2 1080s SLI'ed, can you tell me the max load wattage used? Interested in maybe putting two 1080 FTWs under water in the future.

EDIT: In other news, Newegg gave me Fedex Home Delivery so I'm getting my Seasonic Prime on Saturday (tomorrow) biggrin.gif
Edited by LolCakeLazors - 8/19/16 at 12:29pm
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post #5526 of 11174
Quote:
Originally Posted by LolCakeLazors View Post

I don't have an exact answer but I noticed that it's better to leave the voltage at stock for me. It becomes way more unstable if you set voltage to 100 in Afterburner/Precision X. I could barely do 21xx when I touched the voltage meter in Precision X and it was clocking 2088 @ 1.092V.

It's weird because I have experienced it both ways. Doom adding extra voltage says F that stock all the way for stability. GTA V and Witcher 3 appear stable adding extra voltage. Valley wants extra voltage. My voltage doesn't always even go up when I put the slider up either. Guess chalk it up to boost 3.0 only using what it wants when it wants. Definitely the most instability seen with voltage maxed just like you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepillo View Post

Thanks.

My score it is scaling well with every core step up:



Perhaps I can go more ...... biggrin.gif

See how high you can go. My scores start going down past 2154. Interestingly I got your same graphics score at 2154 core. Guess core clocks aren't always everything. Really starting to think that my voltage slider is placebo. tongue.gif

Edit: Have you tried a lower memory clock?I forgot that the Z bios upped my memory already before adding +500 to the memory. Dropped mine back by 50 and my score definitely went up. Wondering if you would see the same.
Edited by Bishop07764 - 8/19/16 at 12:54pm
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post #5527 of 11174
I bought an MSI Armor OC last week, and watercooled it last night. (EK)
At stock settings with aircooling was hitting 1911, under water is raised to 1946.

Overclocking, used to stay at 2101 now hits constant 2126 with couple of spikes at 2154 while benching. My settings are +100% vcore, +121% PL, +185, +0 vram (normal speed 5006) and temps do not go above 44C while benching.
Max power stays at 110% (axis goes all way to 150%) and hits the Voltage limit only when going to max speed. It doesn't hit Power or Temp limit at all.

Now, when gaming, I see on the overlay a constant 2139, however somehow that cannot be achieved while benching. (using Spy mainly).

Is there any way to improve the voltage limit? Some said use the Gaming X (maybe better use the Gaming Z?) bios, however I do not want to brick the card.
Any other idea?

Thank you smile.gif
post #5528 of 11174
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimboso View Post

Purely aesthetics. I want to "frame" the hardware and make use of the two cilynder res I have, if possible smile.gif
I originally opted for a dual loop, but as I didnt go SLI I don't see a reason for a loop for the GpU only wink.gif
Still have the hardware tho do I Might as well use it.

Sounds like you do have a reason then to go with a dedicated Gpu loop if you have the parts already. I'm not sure how it would impact performance if added to your existing loop. I opted for independent loops. It let me slap in my 1080 faster anyway. Even if the rads do get bored cooling just a single graphics card. Sometimes I don't even run all the fans. I love being able to get good temps with having my fans spin no faster than maybe 800 rpm. Some of benefits to having another loop that I've seen anyway.
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post #5529 of 11174
Quote:
Originally Posted by LolCakeLazors View Post

For anyone that has 2 1080s SLI'ed, can you tell me the max load wattage used? Interested in maybe putting two 1080 FTWs under water in the future.

EDIT: In other news, Newegg gave me Fedex Home Delivery so I'm getting my Seasonic Prime on Saturday (tomorrow) biggrin.gif

Just tested with Heaven running full 4K, I didn't get over 690w. I imagine my CPU was pretty bored, so it might go higher, but I can't imagine much higher. I'll reply with GTA5 results as well since that'll hit everything very hard playing at full 4K.
post #5530 of 11174
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fediuld View Post

I bought an MSI Armor OC last week, and watercooled it last night. (EK)
At stock settings with aircooling was hitting 1911, under water is raised to 1946.

Overclocking, used to stay at 2101 now hits constant 2126 with couple of spikes at 2154 while benching. My settings are +100% vcore, +121% PL, +185, +0 vram (normal speed 5006) and temps do not go above 44C while benching.
Max power stays at 110% (axis goes all way to 150%) and hits the Voltage limit only when going to max speed. It doesn't hit Power or Temp limit at all.

Now, when gaming, I see on the overlay a constant 2139, however somehow that cannot be achieved while benching. (using Spy mainly).

Is there any way to improve the voltage limit? Some said use the Gaming X (maybe better use the Gaming Z?) bios, however I do not want to brick the card.
Any other idea?

Thank you smile.gif

Personally I would try decreasing your voltage to see if that will help you. It helps my overclocks. I would suggest that you back up your bios and think about trying the Z bios as that PCB is also the same as the X and Z if I'm not mistaken. It might help out. I've definitely seen an improvement on mine with the Z bios, but I didn't try the stock one for very long. If it helps at all, the bios is a batch file executed bios that comes with very good instructions. It's made directly by MSI. You literally have to click yes for the Windows prompt, press g for gaming or O for the OC bios, maybe click yes again and it'll do its thing and automatically reboot. Something to think about anyway. You will have to reinstall your display driver too. My power limit has never gone above 90% that I can recall. It will change your limit to 107% which is normal. You could always flash back if you so desired. They have the same procedure and official bios for the gaming X.
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