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[Build Log] Mac Classic Forever - Page 7

post #61 of 253
Thread Starter 
I created a template for use to mark up the PCIe slot aperture on the outside of the case. It is referenced to three of the motherboard mounting posts which protrude from the side of the case slightly. The lower part of the aperture is wide for the lower PCIe slot support bracket but it isn't wide all the way up like in the design. This is to leave the edge of the case with a bit more material where the slot would otherwise have cut completely through the seam between the front panel and the body of the case.

PCIeSlotAperture.pdf 1k .pdf file
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post #62 of 253
Thread Starter 
I've been doing more templates for the fan cutouts with the intention of cutting the holes at the same time as the PCIe slot and it forced me to think more about the PSU options.

If I can successfully make the TEC heat exchangers and install the TECs then the total power requirements are really going to be pushing the limits of a 750W PSU even if I only use 6V on the TECs. I'd much prefer overkill for the PSU since it's one less thing to worry about from a stability point of view (there are also some minor efficiency and lifespan benefits from running the PSU nearer the middle of the power range rather than right at the limit).

I had previously wondered whether I could fit an extra PSU for the TECs but for some reason came to the conclusion it wasn't possible. I think because I hadn't yet considered the option of moving the bottom radiator forwards a bit and placing one sideways.

Anyway, I tried again in the model and it turns out that it is sort of possible to fit two SFX PSUs after all:



(Since I don't have access to a real one, I created the textures for the model of the SF600 from photos from this review https://smallformfactor.net/reviews/powersupplies/corsair-sf600-review-new-player-joined so I could see where the modular connectors would end up --- Thanks)

It would be necessary to place the PSUs up to their respective outside edges of the case in cutouts in the side panels in order to get just 18mm space for the modular connectors of the PSU used for the computer. The PSU used for the TECs would have the 24 pin ATX, peripheral and one of the PCIe connectors blocked by the 240 radiator with only the CPU VRM power and 2 of the PCIe connectors accessible. A non-modular PSU (like the one I have) in that location would work though or it would be possible to open up an SF600 and solder some custom cables in place of the modular sockets perhaps.

It's not totally clear whether it would be best to arrange the PSUs fan up or fan down. I was previously planning two 80mm side fans in those locations, one inlet and one outlet to get more fresh air flowing towards the GPU and up through the HDDs. In the new configuration I think at least one of the PSUs - probably the TEC one - ought to be fan up to maintain the airflow through the case. The connectors and the power inlet on the other PSU work better if the PSU is fan down but for a blower GPU or a watercooled GPU I think it might be better if both PSUs were fan up, again to increase airflow. There would be three inlet 120s restrcted by radiators, a push pull outlet 120 pair restricted by a radiator plus two outlet 92mm fans restricted by the PSU components. There's space for one more 80 fan which could be another outlet as long as that wasn't too much for positive pressure to be maintained inside the case.

This is quite a big change to the current design and would require some rework of the rear panel. It only makes sense if I can make the TEC exchangers. Without the TECs, I'd prefer to stick with the current single PSU design. So, after I've finished the PCIe slot I'm going to need to attempt the TEC heat exchangers to work out where the design is going next.

Some more shopping:

A coping saw (143.9 RMB) for cutting the PCIe slot and the fan/radiator cutouts in the case. The hole cutter I have is too small for the fan holes which aren't circular anyway and the coping saw should be an improvement on the hacksaw for this task.



A small cross vice (480 RMB) for my drill press so I can drill the copper pipes accurately to make the TEC exchangers. It's pretty hard to drill accurately into the side of a tube without something like this (I'm reminded of the lathe my father gave me for one of my teenage birthdays which I used for this task once when making a mechanical balance. I've hung on to it for 30 years but it's currently in storage in the UK and isn't likely to make it out here to China) and the pipes need to be aligned as accurately as possible so the plates lie flat across them all and the solder joints are thinner for better heat transfer. I don't expect the heat exchanger to work exceptionally well but there is quite a lot of area compared to the sum of the CPU heatspreader and GPU die (about 3X for the cold side and 6X for the hot side I guess) so the heat flux is relatively low and I think it will be good enough. I might try squashing the pipes a bit to get more contact with the plates. Also M12 nuts and bolts (5 RMB).



A 200W soldering iron (180RMB). Hopefully I'll be able to successfully braze the pipes carrying the liquid together so I'll get a reliable water-tight system but I don't think the torch is going to be powerful enough to braze the pipes to the plates. I think I'll probably have to do that with solder.



I also bought a full cover clear face mask (68RMB) to protect my face when brazing. I already have leather gloves and a cotton coat.



I picked up the little torch. I may need to find a local place to refill it with oxygen --- it's not allowed on the metro so it was a 50RMB taxi fare to get it home.


Edited by heb1001 - 8/5/16 at 9:34pm
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post #63 of 253
Thread Starter 
Whilst dissasembling the Mac to prepare for cutting the PCIe slot I decided to do a test fit of my GTX 980 to see if a card with a backplate would fit. This took a little time because it meant disassembling my main PC to get it out and then putting it back afterwards. I also returned the 760 I had borrowed from my wife's PC as she will be back soon and will need it. I didn't make it as far as cutting the PCIe slot.

Where the backplate was 3mm thick under the rear radiator it did fit but where the backplate was 4.5mm thick around the PCIe power connector area it interfered with the new ODD location. 4.5mm is well outside the PCIe spec for the component height for the rear side of a PCIe card and I was a bit surprised the backplate was so thick in that area. I tried looking for some dimensions of backplate thicknesses online but didn't find any. It would be useful to determine a reasonable maximum thickness.

I cut up the ODD brackets a bit more to see if it would be possible to move the ODD up a bit to get it to clear the backplate and it does just work but leaves the lower SSD flush on the ODD so it can't be plugged in.

I also measured the fans and 240 radiator to find that the rubber corners make the fans about 26mm thick rather than the 25mm assumed by the model and the radiator turns out to be 27.5mm in reality rather than the 27mm shown on the diagram on its packaging. So that explains why the ODD was off centre.

I've identified enough issues now that I think it's worth redoing the brackets to shift things around by a few mm to get a better fit and create a bit more clearance for cards with backplates.
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post #64 of 253
Thread Starter 
Came up with this whilst waiting for my lunch to cook:

2 PSUs is enough to power the TECs and a second GPU. The ASRock board supports PCIe bifurcation and it looks like there's enough space...



I would need to make a custom passive PCIe splitter. Have to find out the wiring and do a bit of soldering.
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post #65 of 253
I was actually going to suggest bifurcation awhile back, seeings that motherboard is capable of it..would be amusing to see just how much can be crammed into such a small space...and so far from the looks of things, you are going to take that train of thought to a new level.
post #66 of 253
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GHADthc View Post

I was actually going to suggest bifurcation awhile back, seeings that motherboard is capable of it..would be amusing to see just how much can be crammed into such a small space...and so far from the looks of things, you are going to take that train of thought to a new level.

biggrin.gif

If I can build that last design and SLI works it will be a no-compromise PC. The PCIe slot could be used for extra SATA or a good sound card perhaps. I can't think of anything else I'd want in it but if you have some suggestions, let me know.

I think the splitter needs a chip to replicate the reference clock. I may have to buy one rather than make. I posted a question on [H]ardForum to get some advice on how to do this.
Edited by heb1001 - 8/5/16 at 5:38am
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post #67 of 253
Thread Starter 
I went to the metal shop this morning to get the plates for the TEC heat exchangers cut (30 RMB).

I'm sure the aviation snips would have worked but the plates are simple rectangles and the guillotine cut them without bending them.

Here's a shot of the plates being cut:



If I need to make something a bit larger than 120mmx44mm in the future I don't think it's going to be a problem smile.gif

Here's the result:



I also bought a pipe cutter (38 RMB):


Edited by heb1001 - 8/5/16 at 9:40pm
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post #68 of 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by heb1001 View Post

biggrin.gif

If I can build that last design and SLI works it will be a no-compromise PC. The PCIe slot could be used for extra SATA or a good sound card perhaps. I can't think of anything else I'd want in it but if you have some suggestions, let me know.

I think the splitter needs a chip to replicate the reference clock. I may have to buy one rather than make. I posted a question on [H]ardForum to get some advice on how to do this.
Check out project Chrome Leopard by BoloisBolo on this forum, he explains the needed riser/daughter board to use bifurcation.
post #69 of 253
Thread Starter 
I set up the cross vice. It took me a few hours to get it accurate. Mostly that was a long time to realize that the angle w.r.t. the drill was irrelevant but that the face plates of the vice as supplied were not parallel with the travel. I used some aluminium foil as a shim to get the vice face plates parallel. They are accurate to within 4 foil thicknesses now which is good enough for this job I think. I also made more of an effort to get the shelf perpendicular and the cross vice flat on the shelf. They did warn me in the shop that my drill was too small for the cross vice but again, it will be OK I think.



I cut the pipes. The pipe cutter has quite a lot of play which makes it difficult to make repeatable cuts. I cut a few extra pipes of each size starting with the longest and recycled the outliers to make shorter pipes. I used less than 7m of the 6mm and 80cm of 8mm and less than 30cm of the 10mm.

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post #70 of 253
Thread Starter 
I spent most of a day drilling the 6mm diameter holes to make the exchangers.

Here's a pic of the current progress:



I put all the pipes into my power drill one by one and spun them against sandpaper to tidy up the sharp rings left by the pipe cutter and also to narrow the ends of the pipes a little so they would push fit into the 6mm holes.

I had to remake one of the pipes which came loose in the power drill and was damaged.

The cross vice was easy enough to use. I used a test piece to get the vice aligned so the pipe would be centred under the drill bit then left that axis alone. I found the end of the workpiece by bringing the spinning drill bit up to it and listening for the sound of first contact. After that it was just a matter of counting off the distance to advance along the pipe to the location of the first hole. I almost forgot to add the drill bit radius a couple of times but caught myself before making a mistake. The drill bit tends to wander around the surface of the pipe. I found it easiest just to tap it down gently a few times to make a centre before drilling.

When it came to assembling the sets I made a mistake on the first set by tapping the ends of the pipes with a hammer. This flared the ends so they wouldn't fit in the end pipe. I had to re-spin them. After that I assembled both ends at the same time and put some rods through the ends to stop the pipes halfway then hammered the end pipes. This worked well enough.

The 10mm pipe that bridges the hot pipes has 8mm holes for the hot end pipes on one side and a 6mm hole for the barb on the other. I still need to do the 4 8mm holes but the 8mm drill bit is too long for the current setup. I drilled all the holes at 6mm and will open the 8mm ones with the power drill or find a setup that works. I didn't find a way to get the holes accurately 180 degrees around the other side of the pipes. The first one I tried was way off and I had to redo the pipe. After that I just did them by eye and they are roughly OK. I don't think it's critical it just means the barbs will be at slight angles.

I want to do the brazing in stages so I can drill out the end pipes halfway through the process for better flow. I haven't worked out how to seal the ends of the pipes that need it yet. Maybe braze on some little circles of plate or braze in some cut-off bolt heads perhaps.

The plate sold to me as 100% copper looks a lot like brass when put next to the copper pipe. It is a bit pink when polished though. I wonder how much copper there is in it really.

There is a lot of metal. The moment of truth for the little torch is coming soon.
Edited by heb1001 - 8/7/16 at 2:14am
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