Originally Posted by Skyblaze
Originally Posted by gtbtk
The Palit Dual is still a dual fan card that should run better than 84 deg. the 1070 is a very power efficient chip. With mine, at 1.093v and 80% fans I only just hit 62 deg in a 24 deg room. Granted my cooler is a higher quality one than the palit, but it shouldn't be 20 deg different. I would expect more like 10-15.
If your card is running hot like that, either your case has no ventilation at all and the hot air is just going around and around. You may benefit by installing another fan or two to the case. You can do a quick test before spending any money by taking the case door off and running it open and seeing how the temps go when you know the card can get some fresh air. a fan in the case door would be useful if your case supports it
Or the other thing it could be, If it still runs at 84 deg with an open case, is the thermal paste. The factory application of thermal interface material may be faulty. If you dont want/cant replace the thermal paste yourself because of warranty stickers etc, RMA the card and get another one because it is faulty.
If you are undervolting, you already have afterburner installed. You can set a custom fan curve in AB so that it spins at 20-25% at idle. (Im not sure if the dual has the 0 fan below 60 deg by default) That way it is still quiet but it will idle at 35deg instead of hi 50s and then start increasing the curve at say 40 or 45 deg set the max speed to 75% if that is what is tolerable from say, 60 deg up.
You were right my temps in terms of undervolting from yesterday were complete bogus. Since the outside temperatures are still below 10°C here like they have been the whole winter I set my case fans to Level 1 and didn't clean my dust-filters in a while. (I tend to rarely use heaters even in winter so my room-temperatures are below average during this time) After I cleaned the filters and set the fans back to Level 2 I'm now running 2000mhz at 0.9v @ 68°C with the fans barely scratching 60-65%. I was shocked how quiet the card is now when I tested it a while longer with BF1. I guess since I went the lazy route over winter (I bought my 1070 in October I think where it was already pretty cold) and used the thermal-limit option I never noticed how much my ambience airflow must have throttled my GTX 1070 because I rarely play a game that push it
So I guess I'm happy!
One question though, did I undervolt the right way? I followed a YouTube tutorial and set my Afterburner curve like this:
but I read on another forum that doing it that way actually can cause FPS loss because it doesn't raise another hidden clock called Videoclock properly? The right way is supposedly to offset the curve first and then flatten it beyond the desired max-voltage but that caused me to instantly crash my drivers. I'm not sure if I did it right though because the instructions were a bit confusing. Did I do things right or wrong?
And thanks for your suggestions, they lead me to finding my issue.
The .950v point is the voltage point that also controls the video clock speed. That is the reason why I said use that point.
One thing that maybe you haven't paid any attention to is that thin line you can see on that pops out under the main curve. Understanding what that means will help you not spend ages scratching your head wondering why the curve never seems to be consistent. Keep in mind that the graphics card actually uses all the voltage points up to the level where it stops increasing, not just the highest point on the curve.
The way the AB curve works, is that it has a default set of voltage values are fixed in the bios. OC versions of the card have higher values baked in to the bios. The card uses those fixed values as the default curve. Any time you do any overclocking, you are not actually changing those values, instead, you are telling the card to apply an offset to each of the fixed values that you adjust. Using the slider and adding +100 in AB tells the card to offset every value in the range by and extra 100 on the y axis if the graph. If you use the slider and look at the graph, you will see that the thin line stays where the default curve used to be.
If you use the individual voltage points on the curve to overclock, this is where it can get confusing. Even though all the points on the curve appears to move around the one you just moved, they actually are not. Even though the thick curve appears to move, the Afterburner application is just relocating the where it is representing the 0 offset on screen. Intuitively, I think most people would assume that the 0 offset point would remain fixed on the screen but it doesn't.
The thin line that you can see is actually there to indicate how much offset that any given voltage point has from the 0 level that is moving all around the screen. If the thin line ends up above the main curve line, it is showing you that at that voltage point the offset is negative. Sometimes you can move the point and hit apply and it will look like the curve didnt move. but if you pay attention to the thin line, that did move and it shows that the offset was actually changed.
This curve is only there to illustrate what I am saying and is not a usable curve for your graphics card. It took me more than 6 months of head scratching before I worked out what the curve was actually telling me and understand why it all seemed so inconsistent.
This is what a curve should look like if the 0 offset remained fixed on the screen and you made positive and negative adjustments. It the way I think everyone assumes the curve works, but it doesn't in Afterburner. The curve adjustment in precision XOC is ugly and clunky, but, the 0 baseline is actually flat along the bottom of the histogram, making it much easier to understand what you are doing if you manually adjust curves.
This is actually the exact same curve after you hit the apply button. See how it looks nothing like what a normal person would assume it should look like given the settings in the first screencap? The thin line though, being above and below the thick line does actually show you where points have been offset in a positive direction and where points have been offset in a negative direction. The thin line is actually 0.
If you look at your curve, the only points that are getting any offset from default are the ones between .900 and .950. Everything else is running at stock. There is more performance that you can get out of your card while still running at a lower voltage than default.
What I would suggest, is that you increase every voltage point from the 0.800v point up to 0.950v. If you want to limit the cards voltage to .950v, don't adjust anything above that point. The highest level for each point will be dependent on your card but I would try adding +200 mhz to each of those low range point first and test for stability. If it is stable, increase them all by +25 and test again. if not reduce each point by 25 and test. when you get the .8 to .95v points adjusted and stable, then increase the .950v point up to 2025mhz if you are still below that level on the curve and see how that works for you.
If you are really keen, you can adjust each point individually as they are all likely to have different maximum offset values but the gains are probably not worth the extra time to fine tune it and maybe see a 1fps improvement in some games.