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Archimedes block install, Cooling upgrade for "Behemoth" - Page 9

post #81 of 125
Just checked my old PM's with mindchill on Xtremesystems, he said he won't go more than 15amps on his controller boards because the traces won't handle it. Stick a fan on that controller and hope for the best!!! I think depending on where you set your temp target it might be ok, 18amps is 12v 100% continuous, so should be within the 15amps the majority of the time.
post #82 of 125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Puck View Post

Slight delay and small change of plans. While getting ready to attach the 4pin to the TEC wiring, I removed the 4pin from my current controller to verify the connector was the same standard EPS layout. I noticed instantly that one of the pins was starting to show some severe browning and heat damage on the connector. Nothing melting, but definitely over heating. It could have been due to the pins just being crimped and not soldered, but if it started to do that with the ~12A from the CTE400 there is no way I risk it with the 18A from the TN669.

Ordered some 30A rated powerpole connectors, and will solder them directly to the controller PCB and TEC leads. Guess we'll still have to see how the poor controller holds up to ~30% more power draw then it was built for biggrin.gif.


Still aiming for Friday, but its my birthday and going out Friday evening with friends then headed across the state for the weekend...will have to do like 90% of it tomorrow night!

well there is always the idea of rebuilding the electrical system so that it can handle the load. biggrin.gif

http://www.moddiy.com/products/4%252dPin-Motherboard-Power-Female-Connector-%252d-Black.html
http://www.moddiy.com/products/ATX-%7B47%7D-PCI-%7B47%7D-EPS-Connector-Pins-%28Female%29.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1Y6Y3E?psc=1
the cost, it's not too bad, it's the time that it takes to do it. thumb.gif
post #83 of 125
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiamG6 View Post

I think mindchill said his controller could handle 20amps if you pushed it (might have been 25, can't recall), problem is the TN669 pulls about 25amps when you first turn it on, unless your duty cycle is set at like 25% on start up. Is there some sort of soft start function in the controller?

Either way, not a good sign, could have been one pin wasn't touching correctly and adding resistance/heat, not something you want to take chances with. EC3 connectors can handle 60 amps continuous. EDIT ah I see, you are desoldering the 4 pin on the controller and upgrading to a 30amp PCB terminal, good plan, I just soldered my wires directly to PCB biggrin.gif Bit ugly though.

Oh and Happy Birthday!! drunken.gif

The controller starts at 0% and ramps up slowly, so I'm not worried about the start up spike. I was also running the CTE400 at 14v for a long time through that controller which it might not have liked. I'm pretty sure it was just one pin with poor contact - they might not even be soldered honestly...could just be crimped eek.gif. I'm gonna solder in more robust 30A connectors direct to the PCB, then install a fan pointing right at the PCB and hope the traces hold up. Most of the time I'm set to where the DC is only 40-50% during normal use and gaming, so it would only be an issue if I was benching or pegged at 100% for a while...I hope biggrin.gif

I'll do a quick hyperpi run just to see how much better it is, but I won't be doing any intense testing until I get an upgraded controller. Even though I'm insulated I don't want it running 100% all the time since its just going to heat up the room and waste a ton of power idling sub 0 for no reason.
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post #84 of 125
Thread Starter 
Connectors just came in, time to get to work!
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post #85 of 125
Thread Starter 
Lots of cursing and two soldering iron burns later and the modded controller is finished. Also soldered a case fan to the bottom of the PCIE connector socket that will always blow right on top of the PCB and mosfets. Hoping that helps since it is being ran 3A above its max rating. Its just glued to the controller for now, ill make a prettier mount for it eventually.

Took longer then expected since i got distracted when i noticed my micro NFC tags came in...krazy glued one to the inside of my watch band strap and programmed it to open an app i use a lot by touching the phone to my watch band lol.

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post #86 of 125
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

well there is always the idea of rebuilding the electrical system so that it can handle the load. biggrin.gif

http://www.moddiy.com/products/4%252dPin-Motherboard-Power-Female-Connector-%252d-Black.html
http://www.moddiy.com/products/ATX-%7B47%7D-PCI-%7B47%7D-EPS-Connector-Pins-%28Female%29.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1Y6Y3E?psc=1
the cost, it's not too bad, it's the time that it takes to do it. thumb.gif

the problem with that is the connector itself is the weak point, bad contact with the pins = higher resistance, which means heats up until it burns up. Puck was lucky it never went further than it did, and it was probably just because either they were only crimped or a pin had a slightly bad contact. Pointless using thicker gauge wiring with the same connector because the connector pins are the weak point. Puck did the right thing by upgrading to 30a connectors. Might have to do the same to mine or use my EC3 connectors and remove the 4 pin EPS.


Looking good puck. Great that the controller has a soft start function. Getting close now. Hoping mindchill over engineered the PCB just enough to handle 18amps, I know if he was still on the forum he'd be raging at you for pushing it that high tongue.gif Fan will help. Have to wait and see now.

NFC? Near field? Sounds interesting.
post #87 of 125
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiamG6 View Post

the problem with that is the connector itself is the weak point, bad contact with the pins = higher resistance, which means heats up until it burns up. Puck was lucky it never went further than it did, and it was probably just because either they were only crimped or a pin had a slightly bad contact. Pointless using thicker gauge wiring with the same connector because the connector pins are the weak point. Puck did the right thing by upgrading to 30a connectors. Might have to do the same to mine or use my EC3 connectors and remove the 4 pin EPS.


Looking good puck. Great that the controller has a soft start function. Getting close now. Hoping mindchill over engineered the PCB just enough to handle 18amps, I know if he was still on the forum he'd be raging at you for pushing it that high tongue.gif Fan will help. Have to wait and see now.

NFC? Near field? Sounds interesting.

Correct, no point in just redoing the same connector since it may just happen again (even though i think it was just a bad contact on that pin). Everything is done and connected, I just need to drain the loop to hook up the tubes for the block and refill. Got hungry and tired so saved the rest for today lol.

Might have a serious issue though, i dont think the block is making good contact with the CPU because of the caps around the socket. Could have just ben since i was tired but when i applied then removed the block the CLU looked the same like it never made contact...I'll know for aure as soon as i turn it on lol.

Correct, Near Field...they are very small so only have a ~1cm range which works perfect since i dont activate it by accident.
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post #88 of 125
Thread Starter 
block definitely not making contact, not sure how close it is but if i cant get it to mount properly by removing some insulation I might have to use AS ceramique instead of CLU to try to fill the gap.
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Behemoth
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post #89 of 125
Thread Starter 
So pretty much everything possible to go wrong, did. First temp probe not reading, then the TEC not getting any power, then noticing block was not making contact with the CPU, and then a clamp breaking on the block hose after it was filled and running, causing me to have to run to the nearest auto parts store to replace it.

Posting from the rig now though, with all settings the same the block holds a ~8-10% lower duty cycle for the same locked temp. Mount is still poor though, at the same IHS temp the core temp is 2-3c higher...actually, its a different cold plate probe so it could just be more accurate (which makes more sense). Haven't pushed the block past 40% duty cycle yet, so no clue how the controller will hold up to its full load.

After messing with this crap for hours I'm exhausted, leaving everything in pieces and will close it up another day and get some numbers...probably Sunday.

Whew.

edit: LOL after wondering why my idle temps were all over the place and my duty cycle kept going from 10% lower to the same as before, I noticed the stupid Windows Defender background process chugging away at 25-30% CPU load. Everything is fine smile.gif
Edited by Puck - 8/5/16 at 8:55am
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post #90 of 125
Thread Starter 
Mount doesn't look as bad as I thought, after cycling from 7c to 12c a few times to get the cold plate and IHS bonded my temps are right where they should be. Even though its a different probe so I can't say its 100% fair comparison, with my cold plate at the same exact temp my core temps are up to 2c lower. I expected 5c lower just by switching from AS Ceramique2 to the CLU, but that was on a different temp probe that is much less accurate and was mounted in a larger hole so the cold plate before may have been 2-3c colder then I thought, giving it an unfair advantage. CLP/CLU freeze at 8c and after cycling above and below that a few times they get a crazy good contact.

Still haven't tested anything crazy or gone over 40% yet, but it seems to be working fine and the fan is keeping the controller nice and cool smile.gif.
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