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Preparing for a Scratch Built Case - Page 12

post #111 of 279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duality92 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I know, my Daddy taught me how half a century ago before I even took any machine shop classes back when I was in college (and they didn't even cover drill bit sharpening). However, unless you get each lip exactly the same, the bit will drill slightly oversized and off center. Also, have you ever tried to sharpen a tiny bit that you can barely see? My old eyes just aren't up to it. Even if I could see well enough and my hands were steady enough (keep in mind I'm in my upper sixties), I would still have to dig my grinder out of storage and set it up.

They do make bit sharpening fixtures to attach to grinders but it's still difficult to impossible to do an accurate job of sharpening small bits. They also make sharpening machines that will sharpen bits but I've yet to see one that was anymore accurate than what I used to be able to do by hand. Smaller bits aren't expensive and it's much easier to just buy a replacement.

For smaller bits I agree, I've done bits from 1/32 up to 2 inches wink.gif

Our bits are expensive, but we have the gear to sharpen them (or extras to replace if needed)

1/8" is the smallest I've ever sharpened and I don't remember sharpening anything larger than 1/2" (other than auger bits but those are easy). I have three sets of fractional bits that go up to 1/2". Anymore now, for anything larger than that, I prefer auger bits (in wood only), step drills (sheet metal only) and hole saws.
     
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post #112 of 279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

1/8" is the smallest I've ever sharpened and I don't remember sharpening anything larger than 1/2" (other than auger bits but those are easy). I have three sets of fractional bits that go up to 1/2". Anymore now, for anything larger than that, I prefer auger bits (in wood only), step drills (sheet metal only) and hole saws.

Yeah, we drill through plate up to 14" thick, holes up to 6". We start with 2" and maching the rest after.
post #113 of 279
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duality92 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

1/8" is the smallest I've ever sharpened and I don't remember sharpening anything larger than 1/2" (other than auger bits but those are easy). I have three sets of fractional bits that go up to 1/2". Anymore now, for anything larger than that, I prefer auger bits (in wood only), step drills (sheet metal only) and hole saws.

Yeah, we drill through plate up to 14" thick, holes up to 6". We start with 2" and maching the rest after.

I have used flycutters in the past for making large holes in plate up to 1/2" but I would need a better drill press than what I have to use one now. I have used a boring bar in a lathe on thicker stock (single cylinder engine block). I once used a flycutter in a vertical mill to cut a 6" hole in 1/4" plate just to see if I could. My days of any serious machine work are long gone and past other than on what I can do with home tools light enough for me to handle (my little el cheapo Rikon drill press is as heavy as I can handle anymore without hurting myself).
     
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post #114 of 279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I have used flycutters in the past for making large holes in plate up to 1/2" but I would need a better drill press than what I have to use one now. I have used a boring bar in a lathe on thicker stock (single cylinder engine block). I once used a flycutter in a vertical mill to cut a 6" hole in 1/4" plate just to see if I could. My days of any serious machine work are long gone and past other than on what I can do with home tools light enough for me to handle (my little el cheapo Rikon drill press is as heavy as I can handle anymore without hurting myself).

Did you work as a machinist eventually? Or you just know because you've done some as a hobby (plus the courses). I'm genuenly intriqued.
post #115 of 279
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duality92 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

I have used flycutters in the past for making large holes in plate up to 1/2" but I would need a better drill press than what I have to use one now. I have used a boring bar in a lathe on thicker stock (single cylinder engine block). I once used a flycutter in a vertical mill to cut a 6" hole in 1/4" plate just to see if I could. My days of any serious machine work are long gone and past other than on what I can do with home tools light enough for me to handle (my little el cheapo Rikon drill press is as heavy as I can handle anymore without hurting myself).

Did you work as a machinist eventually? Or you just know because you've done some as a hobby (plus the courses). I'm genuenly intriqued.

No. I couldn't get into the apprenticeship program at the company I worked at for 32 years before retiring from there because I'm color blind although I did work in the machine shop therefor a short while as a trades helper for metal fabs (metal fabricators; basically, welders). Instead, I worked in warehousing for 30 of the 32 years I was there and really enjoyed that work because of the variety of work we did. The company eventually did away with requirement for perfect color vision for machinist and metal fabs but, by that time, I was too old to qualify for the apprenticeship program (over 32). By the time they did away with the age limitation (or, rather, the Feds did away with it), I was making too much money and couldn't afford the cut in pay I would have to take to start at the bottom again. I also wasn't all that far away from early retirement and the cut in pay would have reduced my retirement pay.

My Daddy was a machinist, though, and was always passing on tidbits of knowledge to me. When we moved to the Phoenix, AZ area when I was 7 years old, he worked for a while as a tool and die maker for Reynolds Aluminum way over on the other side of town until they went on strike; he then managed to get on with Motorola as a model maker where he worked until he retired. We came from St. Louis where he worked for Century Electric. I don't know what he did for them other than he once told me his first job there when he was fresh out of vocational school was oiling the overhead (yes, I know what the overhead was back then was).

I was going to major in electrical engineering in college but I couldn't handle the high powered math so, to keep from having to switch from a science degree to an arts degree (which meant I would have lost my math credits I had sweated bullets to get and have to take a foreign language, which I would have done lousy with), I switched majors to Psychology and minored in Industrial Arts Education, which included machine shop, drafting, welding, basic electricity/electronics, and wood shop. I challenged the electricity class (took a test to get the same credit as though I took the course) and would have aced it except part of the test involved identifying the values of various resistors and capacitors. I knew the color code and how to use it but there was this little matter of being color blind... It pulled my grade down to a B. I also challenged the hand tools wood shop course and aced that one.
     
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post #116 of 279
Thread Starter 
Post #20 received a minor update.

Edit: I'm doing another experiment and need you all's help here. If you subbed by posting here, please let know if this edit triggered an alert for you that I have posted something.
Edited by Lady Fitzgerald - 9/2/16 at 10:04pm
     
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post #117 of 279
Isn't it time for you to make another update; Update 21... Oh wait it would be update 118. xD But in all seriousness your way of making a build log is different from most folks. Either they just keep updates on the front page or just post a new post every time they do a change. Your way has some advantages but also they disadvantage of having to search for the change you made 100 posts back. tongue.gif Anyways keep the good work up! I just can't wait to see the case once it's finished. You truly have some good craftsmanship.
Cheers,
post #118 of 279
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the kind words!

I decided to try this way of posting updates since the case is somewhat modular and I knew I would be jumping from module to module from time to time. Other build logs I've seen were often a mishmash of posts where parts of the build were mixed with other parts and updates were interspersed with comments from people following the build. I was trying to keep the bulk of the build located at the beginning of the thread and the updates to each of the modules collected together in the same post, making it easier for someone to follow what has been going on with that module, then non-build comments could be left for later so people could decide for themselves if they wanted to read them or not. It should especially making reading the build log from one end to the other without having to wade through a bunch of extraneous posts between each update.

I feel I accomplished my goal of keeping the posts with details of the build properly grouped together all near the beginning of the thread. Letting people know where an update apparently hasn't worked as well as I would have liked (and I appreciate the comments about it from you and Duality92 since I can't fix something if I don't it's broken). I had thought the navigation from post update announcement to the post update was taken care of when Duality92 suggested that I make the start of the updates with more visible with enlarged, bolded, and underlined text (an excellent suggestion, btw, and greatly appreciated!) and had assumed giving just the post number would make navigating to the updated post would be adequate; apparently not. Would including the page number the post is on when announcing an update help any (actually, I'm going to do that anyway from now on although I still would like to hear your feedback)? Would asking a mod to thin out the old update announcements help any (although I would hate to put the beleaguered mods to that much work, especially if other build loggers decided to use the same format as this one)?
     
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post #119 of 279
That would be a huge help, I think.
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Corsair DOMINATOR Platinum 16GB  Samsung 850 Pro Series 2.5" Solid State Drive Samsung 850 Pro Series 2.5" Solid State Drive Western Digital Black 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Har... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK-RES X3 ​​250 X2 EK-FC1080 GTX G1 - Nickel x2 EK-Supremacy EVO - Nickel EK-FC1080 GTX G1 - Acetal+Nickel x2 
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Aqua Computer D5 pump pwm x2 Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition x8 Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition x2 Black Ice ​Nemesis Ra​diator GTS​ 480 XFlow 
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Black Ice ​SR2 Xtreme​+ 480 MP M​ulti Port ​Rad... ASUS ROG Swift P278Q G-Sync Monitor Logitech Orion Spectrum EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX ... 
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CaseLabs SMA8 Two-Tone (White & Black) Logitech Chaos Spectrum Sony Shake33 2200W 
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post #120 of 279
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeviathanVI View Post

That would be a huge help, I think.

Which? Adding the page number of the post to the post number or asking a mod to delete old update notices?
     
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i7-5930K Haswell-e Asus X99-E WS/USB 3.1 Visiontek Radeon 7870 2GB with 6 miniDisplayports G-Skill Ripjaws 64GB (8x8GB) DDR4 2133 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 850 EVO 4TB SSDs Samsung 950 Pro 512GB m.2 SSD boot drive Noctua NH-D15S Cpu cooler Win 7 Ultimate 
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Corsair AX760 Scratch built. Currently under construction at ... Logitech M525 El Cheapo Allsop hard plastic 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7-3930k ASUS P9X79 WS MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB... Monoprice 1x2 powered HDMI Splitter 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Kingston HyperX 32GB (8 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDR... 128GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD 4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD LG 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Inter... COOLER MASTER GeminII S524 120mm Long Life Slee... 
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Windows 7 Ultimate 3 x Asus VG248QE Vizio VO320E 32" TV Logitech G510s 
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Corsair HX750W Antec Two Hundred v2 Logitech M525 with Unifying Receiving Corsair SP2500 2.1 Speakers 
AudioOtherOtherOther
ASUS Xonar Essence STX Virtual 7.1 Channels 24-... LSI 9211-8i HBA card HooToo® HT-CR001 3.5" PCI-E to USB 3.0 Multi-in... StarTech HSB220SAT25B 2 Drive 2.5in Trayless Ho... 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-5930K Haswell-e Asus X99-E WS/USB 3.1 Visiontek Radeon 7870 2GB with 6 miniDisplayports G-Skill Ripjaws 64GB (8x8GB) DDR4 2133 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 850 EVO 4TB SSDs Samsung 950 Pro 512GB m.2 SSD boot drive Noctua NH-D15S Cpu cooler Win 7 Ultimate 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX760 Scratch built. Currently under construction at ... Logitech M525 El Cheapo Allsop hard plastic 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
i7-3930k ASUS P9X79 WS MSI R7850 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC Radeon HD 7850 2GB... Monoprice 1x2 powered HDMI Splitter 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Kingston HyperX 32GB (8 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDR... 128GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD 4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD 4TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD LG 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Inter... COOLER MASTER GeminII S524 120mm Long Life Slee... 
OSMonitorMonitorKeyboard
Windows 7 Ultimate 3 x Asus VG248QE Vizio VO320E 32" TV Logitech G510s 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Corsair HX750W Antec Two Hundred v2 Logitech M525 with Unifying Receiving Corsair SP2500 2.1 Speakers 
AudioOtherOtherOther
ASUS Xonar Essence STX Virtual 7.1 Channels 24-... LSI 9211-8i HBA card HooToo® HT-CR001 3.5" PCI-E to USB 3.0 Multi-in... StarTech HSB220SAT25B 2 Drive 2.5in Trayless Ho... 
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