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Should the Hyper Evo 212 be movable and are my temps ok?

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
Hi everyone and thanks for your time, I am returning to overclocking after a 10+ year hiatus, last chip i clocked was a T-Bird AXIA.

I have a GA-Z77-UD3 + 2500k + Hyper Evo 212 (euro) The 2500k has been on pretty much 24/7 since 2011 in a H67 mobo at stock and today i put it in the GA-Z77 and clocked it. I did nothing but leave everything on auto and change the multiplier. 4ghz was fine so i put it to 4.5ghz, 4.5ghz topped out at 85 degrees in Prime95 CPU max heat. 5ghz posted and i went in to the CMOS to to have a look and the Vcore was silly high and it was at 73 degrees so i put it back down to 4.5ghz.

I am fairly certain i was over zealous with the artic silver 5, but that aside should the Evo 212 be able to slide around on the chip? Like i can twist it a few degrees and it slips around, it doesn't seem to be as tightly attached as it could be. I followed the instructions and I have since googled videos and I appear to have used the correct mountings, got the spacings right, tightened the centre thumbscrew, got the pin in the hole and the other pin resting in the notch on the X piece.

When the PC is upright, the cooler is vertical pulling air from front to back and i am using just the fan that came with it, which i understand as the Euro model to be slower than others. So as to my questions, if i may smile.gif

-: Should the Evo 212 be movable by a few degrees whilst screwed down firmly
-: What can I do to shed the 5 degrees and hit 80 as a max? Different fan or fan configuration perhaps?

Thanks x
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post #2 of 20
The 212 does have a loose fit, and a lot of people, including myself, have had the cooler be loose like that despite it be fully seated.
And you should be able to get a 5c difference if you get a decent fan
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post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
Thanks Skye, may i ask for suggestions on a different fan and fan configuration too perhaps? I don't want it to be super noisy though in all honesty smile.gif
Edited by annabel82 - 6/9/16 at 6:55pm
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post #4 of 20
Yeah,the 212 is a bit wiggly. Any maybe try a push/pull configuration instead of just one fan, that will help a bit.
post #5 of 20
Noctua, Corsair sp120, EK Vardar, Scythe Gentle Typhoon, and im sure there are other brands people could suggest. It depends on your budget for the fans and what RPM you're looking for.
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post #6 of 20
AS5 is a bit dated as far as pastes go, there are other options today that are affordable and could shave off a degree or two. You should post a picture of your computer with the side off. You can usually get better temperatures by tweaking airflow a bit.
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post #7 of 20
While AS5 is not the best, the best is maybe 1-1.5c better .. unless you go totally extreme and expensive with the 'ligud metal / ultra / pro TIM for 1-3c better.

Honestly, optimizing case airflow usually more improvement than anything else, even getting better coolers. You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig helpful. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. May I suggest starting with 5th post? 10th post shows TIM application and heat transfer differences.

FYI, 212 are a cooler of the past. They used to be one of the best value coolers around, but they are not anymore .. at least in most places on Earth.
post #8 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skye12977 View Post

Noctua, Corsair sp120, EK Vardar, Scythe Gentle Typhoon

Ok, let's all sing together now - "one of these things is not like the others......". rolleyes.gif

First off, you are not going to shed 5C by changing the fan on a 212 EVO, unless it is to an industrial fan. How is a lower CFM and SP Noctua going to lower temps? Less air through the heatsink produces lower temps? Because Noctua does not make a fan with higher CFM or SP than what is included with the 212 EVO - even the lower noise Euro model.

Corsair? The one that is not like the others (Noctua, GTs and Vardars are top tier fans)? Are we looking to improve performance or add noise and color rings (the only reason anyone uses these things)?

Vardars and GTs are great fans. You might see a couple if degree drop with their highest rpm models, but no great improvements.

@annabel82 Your temps are a bit high for that OC, but it is very likely caused by your MB's auto setting having the voltage to the CPU too high. When you are getting into an OC that high, your goal is going to be to find the lowest voltage that the CPU will stay stable at. Unfortunately, auto overclocks don't do this, and they err on the side of stability which will overvolt the CPU. Doing a Sandy overclock is pretty simple and straightforward. Take a look through this and do a few tweaks and you should be able to shave off 5C by simply setting up your voltages correctly - http://www.overclock.net/t/1100100/info-intel-2500k-2600k-overclocking-tips
post #9 of 20
Thread Starter 
@Skye12977 @alltheGhz @Loladinas @doyll @ciarlatano

Thanks for the replies, I was unaware that the 212 and Arctic silver 5 were now out of date; I should have researched more smile.gif

I have re-seated the 212 with a lot less AS5 now. Having followed the guide ciarlatano suggested under Prime95 my temps are maxed at 76degrees after 20 minutes @ 4.5ghz. I have also left off the side of my case I can’t see which I guess is going to help too.

I confess I ignored what the guide said about starting at 1.2v after I tried 1.2v, which posted but froze during key presses in BIOS menus after I rebooted. The guide states that 1.2v is stock for my processor but my BIOS suggests it’s 1.275, so that’s what it’s set at right now


If you’ll indulge me I have a few questions:

1. I am unable to find these settings in the gigabyte GA-Z77-U3H UEFI:

EPU Power Saving Mode - Disable
VRM Frequency - Manual and 350
CPU Current Capability - 140%
VCCSA - Auto
VCCIO - Auto
PCH Voltage - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum – Enabled

2. As per a different guide I set the watt allowance on both options to 250 in CPU settings. I assume this is max allowed TDP and necessary because 4.5ghz draws more power typically?

3. Why when I have set a manual vcore does CPUID HWMonitor say I am anywhere between 0.971v and 1.431v? I did reset the min/max before running P95 for absolute sure.


All in all I am really really happy with a max of 76 degrees. I know in the grand scheme of things it’s nothing to write home about but sub <=80 in P95 was my goal and it would seem you’ve helped me better that by 4 degrees so thanks ever so much x

Images of the rig are here: https://ma.sochi.st/i/rig URL is safe, it's just a dir listing on a LEMP server i run smile.gif


Edit: Computer hung (no BSOD just froze) with P95 going 1792/1792 as per the guide. Just upped my volts by one notch to 1.280v. Running the test again an CPUID HW Monitor still feels my volts are between 0.996 and 1.431. Temp is up to 79 degrees highest but that must have happened for a brief time because i’v stared at it now for a while and it’s hovering closer to 73-78.

Any advice much appreciated <3 x
Main Rig
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2500k GA-Z77-D3H 970 4GB Stock 4x4GB 1600 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
240GB SSD OSX 240GB SSD Windows 2TB Spinning rust (data) 1TB Spinning rust (critical backup) 
CoolingOSOSMonitor
Hyper Evo 212 OSX El Capitan Windows 10 1: Acer 27" 2560x1440 - Landscape 
MonitorMonitorMonitorOther
2: Samsung 24" 1920x1080 - Landscape 3: Dell 19" 900x1440 - Portrait 4: Dell 19" 900x1440 - Portrait HTC Vive 
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Main Rig
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
2500k GA-Z77-D3H 970 4GB Stock 4x4GB 1600 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
240GB SSD OSX 240GB SSD Windows 2TB Spinning rust (data) 1TB Spinning rust (critical backup) 
CoolingOSOSMonitor
Hyper Evo 212 OSX El Capitan Windows 10 1: Acer 27" 2560x1440 - Landscape 
MonitorMonitorMonitorOther
2: Samsung 24" 1920x1080 - Landscape 3: Dell 19" 900x1440 - Portrait 4: Dell 19" 900x1440 - Portrait HTC Vive 
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post #10 of 20
A couple of replies to your questions:

1. Some of the settings are ASUS specific (what you listed there is literally a specific ROG BIOS tab), others may not be controllable in your BIOS. Very tweaky settings that OC boards have, and some could be using a different name on your board.
2. My Sandy memory is foggy, it's been quite a while, can't help you here.
3. That's really odd. Are you using a manual setting, or do you perhaps have an offset on it?

Also, it looks like you have no intake fans in your case. Is that correct?
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