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[Build Log] Virtual Cosmos - Cosmos II VR PC

post #1 of 44
Thread Starter 
Build Log - Virtual Cosmos

Background:
Hello everyone! I've recently started a new build and thought I would share the progress as I go. I spent a lot of time debating which chassis I wanted and ended up going with the Cosmos II. There are many cases out there that fit more in them with little to no modification but I couldn't get over the sleek look. With this particular build, I'm leaning more towards the design and sacrificing a bit in potential crazy overclocking performance. Ultimately, this build is intended to be my plunge into VR gaming. Let's get started.


(rolling parts list)

Case: Cosmos II
PSU: EVGA SuperNova 1000 T2
Cooling Control: Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 XT

Watercooling
  • EK-CoolStream SE 360 | 6x EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120
  • EK-CoolStream XE 240 | 4x EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120
  • EK-CoolStream CE 140 | 2x EK-Vardar F3-140ER
  • EK-CoolStream WE 180 | 2x EK-FAN 180 PWM



Log:
The Cosmos II is an awesome case but there's a lot of stuff in there I have no use for. Basically, if it was inside and could be removed, I did.


And then I got out the drill and took out rivets. I removed everything to try and keep it from getting scratched up.


So much more room to work with!


I gutted everything out except the front ports. I removed the main "brain" and JB Welded the top sliding cover shut. I have no use for the built in control system and I can put power and reset somewhere else.


UPS held my radiators and fans hostage for 2 weeks but they finally came! I'm attempting to do push-pull on everything.
EK-CoolStream SE 360 for the top
EK-CoolStream XE 240 for the bottom
EK-CoolStream CE 140 for the back
EK-CoolStream WE 180 for the front (because why not?)


The holes didn't like up 100% so had to make some new ones. Not pretty but they'll be hidden. Had to scoot it forward ever so slightly to fit the rear 140 push-pull in too.


So apparently the original fan had strange spacing so I just cut the whole thing out.


Turned out well.


Fits! Might end up doing something different in the end if those gaps bother me enough. We'll see how it looks when it's lit.


Three fans holding the radiator up through the top.


Still looks the same on the outside so far! Not sure if I want to paint anything yet.


With all the drive cages removed and nothing in the front, there's the very large hole in the top of the case. I spent a lot of time debating what I wanted to put there. At first, I thought maybe a touch screen. Maybe I would do just the fan controller and cover up the rest. But then I thought, why put anything there at all?


The Cosmos II doesn't have a side window, but that hole is big enough, I'm going to make it a front window.


And there you have it. More to come thumb.gif

Edited by Elusid - 7/9/16 at 10:33am
post #2 of 44
Not bad, solid start on the modding work! What componentts do you plan to put in it?
post #3 of 44
Thread Starter 
I haven't look too much into it quite yet. I'm buying everything in chunks with the actual components being the very last thing I buy to give some time on newer hardware and benchmarks. I'm leaning towards dual 1080GTX and that's about as far as I've gotten. I'm still going to buy the PSU, pumps, and full Aquaero 6 XT system before I make a final decision.
post #4 of 44
Thread Starter 
PSU and fan controller on the way. First build with PWM so I'm getting familiar with it. I'm going to run all the power directly to the PSU and just the PWM and clock to the controller. Each set of radiator fans will be controlled as one unit. I'm really glad I'll have speed control. These things are LOUD at full.

post #5 of 44
Subbed thumb.gif
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Mothership
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post #6 of 44
Thread Starter 
Figuring out stuff to do until my PSU and fan/pump controller come in. I had a bad fan in my batch so I ripped it apart, soldered longer wires directly onto the PCB, and put it back together to see what I'm getting myself into. Not too difficult minus the microscopic tension ring. I'm doing sleeving on individual wires and swapping out the headers for black ones. I'm debating if I want to paint the fans. Still not sure how much color I want in this build. Might just stick with the tubing, sleeving, and lighting for color.





More to come! thumb.gif
post #7 of 44
Thread Starter 
I've got the power!!


Easiest way to test the PSU and get the fan controller setup.


Fan controller works! Well, with one fan anyway.


Testing running multiple fans off the same controller channel.


It works, kinda. I can run 4 fans through the controller and the max speed is about 2800RPM, with one fan, the speed is 3000RPM. The power injection didn't work either. If I take the power directly from the PSU and only the PWM and RPM wires to the controller, the fans stay at 100% with no control at all. I'm looking into making an active PWM boosting/splitting circuit.


I took apart one of the working fans, soldered on thicker, longer wires, and put it back together. Still works! Now to do that for the rest of them! I think I'm going to make breakout boards that attach to the radiators, so the wires are far longer then I'll need in the end. The thicker wires will look much better when sleeved.
post #8 of 44
Thread Starter 
Naked rads


Prep


I only had to send one of these flying into the abyss to realize I needed to come up with a way to contain them.


This was my very simple and effective solution.


The 140mm EK fans have a big notch right above the solder pads. I didn't need to take them apart, which was amazing. EK, you need to do this on all your fans. Those tension rings are horrible.


I couldn't get the PCB off the plastic hub on the 180mm fans. I ended up taking a Dremel to them and cutting a window. Not my first choice... but I'm covering it up with a sticker anyway.


Not terrible...


3' leads on all my fans. Plenty long for what I'll be doing.


That's it for now. Stay tuned!
post #9 of 44
In regards to your PWM function, did you set the Aquaero to run the fans as PWM, instead of voltage control?
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Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Toshiba DT01ACA300 Toshiba DT01ACA300 Toshiba DT01ACA300 Toshiba DT01ACA300 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
MCP35x x2 Alphacool 480mm UT60 Alphacool 480mm UT60 Gentle Typhoon AP15 
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NB eLoops B13 Windows 10 Pro Hisense 4k 40" TV 24" BenQ ET-0036-EB 
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Gaming Rig
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HTPC Rig
(22 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 5930k Asus X99 Deluxe ii 1080 GTX FE G. Skill F4-3200C16Q-16GVK 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Intel 530  Samsung EVO 850 Toshiba DT01ACA300 Toshiba DT01ACA300 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Toshiba DT01ACA300 Toshiba DT01ACA300 Toshiba DT01ACA300 Toshiba DT01ACA300 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
MCP35x x2 Alphacool 480mm UT60 Alphacool 480mm UT60 Gentle Typhoon AP15 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
NB eLoops B13 Windows 10 Pro Hisense 4k 40" TV 24" BenQ ET-0036-EB 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Varmill VA87M EVGA 1300 G2 Caselab STH10 Logitech G9x 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel G3258 ASRock Z94 Pro 4 Asus 290 G. Skill 8GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Western Digital Green Drive Western Digital Green Drive Samsung spinpoint 2 TB HGST Desktar 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
HGST Desktar Toshiba X300 XSPC 480 Rad HWL 240 GTX Rad 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
(6) GT-AP15 Windows 10 Pro Panasonic TH-50PZH80U Corsair HX620 
CaseAudioAudioAudio
White Enthoo Primo PSB Image 4T Onkyo TX-NR636 PSB Image 4T 
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JBL Loft Series Nuance Sub 
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post #10 of 44
Thread Starter 
Ah, yeah. I forgot to mention I figured it out. I wasn't aware the AQ6 did voltage dimming as well as PWM. It was a simple adjustment in the menu and everything worked. Thanks!
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