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JB Weld / Epoxy on a powder coated surface

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quick question for the modders out there:

I have a case that is powder coated. I want to attach a basic L bracket to an inside panel using an epoxy. Will the epoxy bind to the powder coated surface strongly enough to mount hardware to it, or do I need to remove the powder coat to bare metal before I do it?

Thanks
post #2 of 9
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post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
A buddy of mine that does a lot of custom auto body work said he recommends bare metal to bare metal bonding when using stuff like JB weld. It would probably bond to the powder coat but not as strong as metal to metal would. He also recommended a 3M solution that would be easier then messing with mixing jb weld or something similar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4buSuzQKaUI

I'll pick some up and do some test runs this weekend.
post #4 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear907 View Post

A buddy of mine that does a lot of custom auto body work said he recommends bare metal to bare metal bonding when using stuff like JB weld. It would probably bond to the powder coat but not as strong as metal to metal would. He also recommended a 3M solution that would be easier then messing with mixing jb weld or something similar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4buSuzQKaUI

I'll pick some up and do some test runs this weekend.

I've used JB Weld only twice. The first time, it went well enough but took well over 24 hours to cure. A couple of days later, when I tried to use it again, the cap to the resin tube was stuck; I was forced to cut open the tube to get the small amount I needed, wasting the rest of the tube (and no, I didn't get any catalyst on it). No way I'm ever using it again!
     
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post #5 of 9

You need bare metal and for the surface to be scratched up, porous, or have small holes in it.  JB weld does not hold well on a smooth surface or any surface coating from my experience.

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post #6 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear907 View Post

A buddy of mine that does a lot of custom auto body work said he recommends bare metal to bare metal bonding when using stuff like JB weld. It would probably bond to the powder coat but not as strong as metal to metal would. He also recommended a 3M solution that would be easier then messing with mixing jb weld or something similar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4buSuzQKaUI

I'll pick some up and do some test runs this weekend.

3M VHB is an excellent solution for face to face bonds, such as the lap joint in the linked video, that is second only to actual welding, including solvent welding certain plastics. The thinner the tape, the more rigid the bond. Just stay away from the 6 mil tape. The 6 mil tape stuff is pure adhesive—it sticks and holds like nothing I've ever seen— but it's very soft and malleable because there is no carrier, unlike the thicker tapes, and it doesn't stick well enough to the backing strip, making it darned near impossible to apply where you want it. The thicker tapes have a foam plastic carrier in various colors (it doesn't look like foam) that make the tape much easier to handle and apply.

A less expensive solution that is almost as good as the VHB series is the 3M bonding tapes, such as the 4010. The latter is popular with modders for mounting custom windows in computer side panels. It works best when larger surface areas are being bonded.
     
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post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by axipher View Post

You need bare metal and for the surface to be scratched up, porous, or have small holes in it.  JB weld does not hold well on a smooth surface or any surface coating from my experience.

Adhesives hold only as well as the surface they are applied to. If the surface the adhesive is applied to is paint, the bond will be no stronger than the paint. In the case of aluminum, however, a properly primed and applied layer of paint may actually bond better than an epoxy applied directly to the aluminum due to the microscopic self protective oxide layer that forms on aluminum as soon as it is exposed to air.
     
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post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
All great tips, thank you. That is pretty much on point with what my friend was telling me also. For my application, there isn't much weight so the tape adhesive should work fine. I'll still grind out the powder in the small areas I need just to make sure I have a good bond. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Thanks again.
post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bear907 View Post

All great tips, thank you. That is pretty much on point with what my friend was telling me also. For my application, there isn't much weight so the tape adhesive should work fine. I'll still grind out the powder in the small areas I need just to make sure I have a good bond. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right. Thanks again.

If the powder coat was applied correctly, there is no need to grind it away. I've peeled away VHB from anodized aluminum (and, believe you me, that was a chore!) without stripping the finish.
     
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