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Need to make changes to my WC system. Please help :)

post #1 of 33
Thread Starter 
Hi all.

I really need your professional help. This is a long post, so I thank you in advance if you decide to read all of it and stay sober to reply back biggrin.gif
I had to put as much as detail as possible to save you from asking questions which should be given in the OP.

For my first ever custom water cooling system, I went crazy. I didn't do it smart and I went for the *bling*. I had lots of fun and learning doing so, but it's time to chill out and revise my doing and improve my system, since my PC rig is not a practical one.

Let me start by the hardware, and then I'll move on to the issues and questions. I do hope I'll be clear enough and get some wisdom and guidance from the more seasoned ones.

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Primo
Top Rad: 420/60mm in P/P config
Bottom Rad: 280/60mm in P/P
Front Rad: 240/45mm in Push only.
Pump: D5 on setting 5
Reservoir: This is where I started to complicate things and went a bit overboard biggrin.gif I have two reservoirs.
  1. Front Res double-bay res. It give easy access for filling.
  2. 250ml Tube Res - this is for the bling smile.gif

Tubes: EK PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT bull$hit. mad.gif
Liquid: 2.5 Liters EK premix bull$hit as well.
Water blocks: All are nickel plated and copper.

What do I cool with all of this:
  1. Sydney summer!! with no air-con in the room
  2. Very restrictive case placement
  3. 2 x R9 290 OC edition (they are known to be lava like on air cooling)
  4. Ivy bridge @ 4.7Ghz, delidded and used LiquidUltra between the DIE and CPU casing.


That's my rig:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




Obviously, this required lot's of complex tubing and unnecessary complexity. Told you I went crazy smile.gif but I'm not sorry for it for a second. I learned and enjoyed the whole process.

So what has changed?

Few things, but mainly the fact that there are lots of gunk accumulating in the double-bay res. But I cannot establish what formed this gunk.
This was a bit of surprise because of these two reasons:
  1. The EK primo tubes are not meant to leech. But guess what happens when the water temp under heavy load and Sydney summer hits 47 Celsius? That's right, they leech! So don't believe the marketing hype.
  2. The EK liquid premix suppose to have anti-bacterial biocide in it. But could it be just bacteria? I don't know yet.


Please see these two images and help me figure it out:
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



Before I move to the questions part and the help I'm seeking, here's is the stupid tube layout I did:

Pump -> EK Tube Res -> Tube Res's inner tube -> CPU -> Top Rad 420/60 -> GPU's -> Bottom Rad 280/60 -> Front Rad 240/45 -> Double-Res bay -> Pump.

Weird, right? biggrin.gif

The confusing bit for most of you will be the inner tube part. So EK has this inner tube if the aim is to suck water from the tube res. This is mostly for counter clock-wise water flow.
Now, please ignore it because I want to change the layout, and this is where I need the help.

redface.gifQuestions please:

  1. What do you think is the source of gunk? I contacted EK a while back and asked them if I can use silver coil, but they said not to do so since the premix will take care of bacteria.
  2. Leeching? seems likely. Then what would be the best way to clean the loop?
  3. I want to remove one reservoir. Which one should I give up?
    For me it's hard to choose because I like the beauty of the tube res, but I cannot use it for filling the loop.
    The double-bay res is how I fill the system and it's convenient, but has no aesthetics to it.
  4. If your answer is to keep the Tube Res, then how would I fill the loop?
  5. I will probably reuse the same tubes I have, however, I do have EK's ZMT tubes. It shouldn't leech, but it's black and will kinda ruin the blue theme of my rig. I use blue LED's and blue liquid.
  6. Using the rules of thermal dynamics, I just want to make sure that it really doesn't matter which component received water from the radiators first, right? Since, the water temp will get to equilibrium?
    If you read the tube layout I listed below, I mentioned it's stupid because I went to a great deal of making sure the GPU's will receive the coldest water possible from the biggest top radiator.
  7. How would you change the loop?

Thank you if you got this far. I hope I was clear enough and I could get some suggestions on how to make this loop a bit more practical and nice.
Edited by Gil80 - 6/18/16 at 6:07am
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post #2 of 33
I'm not that experienced on plasticizer leeching from tubing, I use acrylic now. But that looks more like algea in the picture..... it looks green.

What brand is your top rad.......is it multiport? If it is multiport you can do most of the loop filling from there. Bay reservoirs are very hard to bleed out air so I would do away with the bay res first. If I were you I would also change my tube res to one that has a multi-port top option, like Bitspower or EK. Heatkiller is coming out with a really awesome new design for a res also.

I just read that a water temp anywhere near 50c is very dangerous for a loop. Is there anyway to get the ambient temp down....maybe a room air conditioner?

If you are going to stay soft tubing.....I would really consider using the EK ZMT it is the best soft tubing I have ever worked with. I tried Primochill when I first started, but quickly moved to hard tubing. I have some plumbing down in my pedestal that I have use ZMT for and I really like it.

If looks are really high on your priority list, and you must stay with soft tubing you will really need to find a way to reduce loop temps though. Check Mayhems soft tubing, and XtremeRigs web site. @Fast Fate has down awesome work on some reviews of soft tubing.

Loop order absolutely doesn't matter........ as long as your res feeds the pump. Your loop temps are usually 1-2C apart throughout the entire loop once things warm up. thumb.gif
post #3 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newtocooling View Post

I'm not that experienced on plasticizer leeching from tubing, I use acrylic now. But that looks more like algea in the picture..... it looks green.

What brand is your top rad.......is it multiport? If it is multiport you can do most of the loop filling from there. Bay reservoirs are very hard to bleed out air so I would do away with the bay res first. If I were you I would also change my tube res to one that has a multi-port top option, like Bitspower or EK. Heatkiller is coming out with a really awesome new design for a res also.

I just read that a water temp anywhere near 50c is very dangerous for a loop. Is there anyway to get the ambient temp down....maybe a room air conditioner?

If you are going to stay soft tubing.....I would really consider using the EK ZMT it is the best soft tubing I have ever worked with. I tried Primochill when I first started, but quickly moved to hard tubing. I have some plumbing down in my pedestal that I have use ZMT for and I really like it.

If looks are really high on your priority list, and you must stay with soft tubing you will really need to find a way to reduce loop temps though. Check Mayhems soft tubing, and XtremeRigs web site. @Fast Fate has down awesome work on some reviews of soft tubing.

Loop order absolutely doesn't matter........ as long as your res feeds the pump. Your loop temps are usually 1-2C apart throughout the entire loop once things warm up. thumb.gif

Algae looks green - Well. white leeching substance and blue liquid may appear green.

What brand is your top rad - Alphacool. But don't worry. It was thoroughly cleaned before use. Yes, it's a multiport.

My tube res - Is EK and is multiport. But the top part is not that accessible within the case for filling.

I just read that a water temp anywhere near 50c is very dangerous for a loop. Is there anyway to get the ambient temp down....maybe a room air conditioner?
Not really.
Edited by Gil80 - 6/19/16 at 4:45am
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post #4 of 33
good luck with finding the problem. im glad i never had an issue with my mayhems pastel red fliud. ive had a liter and litre and half in my system for 3 months now. didne clean it or anything. simply flushed with hot water and my colors are still the same. ( 2 predator 360's )


keep us posted thumb.gif
post #5 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpina 7 View Post

good luck with finding the problem. im glad i never had an issue with my mayhems pastel red fliud. ive had a liter and litre and half in my system for 3 months now. didne clean it or anything. simply flushed with hot water and my colors are still the same. ( 2 predator 360's )


keep us posted thumb.gif

This issue only happened after a bit over a year with the system so it's about time I flush it out anyway.

So I'm going to buy Mayhems Ultra Clear which suppose to not leech.

I use this store: https://www.ple.com.au/Categories/Cooling-Water-Cooling/Coolant-and-Additives

If I want blue colour coolant and these are the things I need to consider:
1. Add biocide (buy it as additive)
2. Or the coolant concentrate has biocide
3. Some additive to delay corrosion

Which coolant to chose from?

I thought about Mayhems Deep Blue 15ml Dye or Mayhems Non-Stain Blue 15ml Dye and Mayhems 15ml Biocide Extreme. But I'm not sure if I should choose.

BUT most importantly, if I choose distilled water, what sort of additive should I buy for anti-corrosion?

Appreciate some advice here smile.gif
Edited by Gil80 - 6/19/16 at 6:46am
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post #6 of 33
Algae can come in a whole myriad of colors; brown, green, blue, red, etc. I'm pretty sure that's algae. The platicizer that I've seen tends to take the form of a white precipitate. You can see both in this image.



Image from this thread. http://www.overclock.net/t/1480840/dark-brown-goop-building-up-on-walls-of-reservoir-is-it-the-kill-coil


EK says on the page for the coolant. "We recommend replacing the liquids every 12 months for best performance!"

You are on what, 16 months? I'd recommend that you change out your coolant.
post #7 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hellbilly View Post

Algae can come in a whole myriad of colors; brown, green, blue, red, etc. I'm pretty sure that's algae. The platicizer that I've seen tends to take the form of a white precipitate. You can see both in this image.



Image from this thread. http://www.overclock.net/t/1480840/dark-brown-goop-building-up-on-walls-of-reservoir-is-it-the-kill-coil


EK says on the page for the coolant. "We recommend replacing the liquids every 12 months for best performance!"

You are on what, 16 months? I'd recommend that you change out your coolant.

13 months smile.gif

but I think I'll just use distilled water with biocide.


but what additive should I use for anti corrosion?
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post #8 of 33
You should be good with just distilled water and PT Nuke PHN.

Buy a gallon of distilled every month or so and drain some of the old water while you dump in the new gallon, and you should never have problems as long as your loop is copper/brass/nickel.
post #9 of 33
EK coolant is my go to and have never had an issue with it. Has all the biocides and anti corrosion additives you need.
 
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post #10 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

EK coolant is my go to and have never had an issue with it. Has all the biocides and anti corrosion additives you need.

Well, that's not the case for me. I'm actually using EK Pre-mix blue coolant. This was bought exactly last year. As you can see from the photo in OP, it's presumed to be bacteria.
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