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GTX 980 Ti 70C on XSPC Razor Block - Page 3

post #21 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiftstealth View Post

Not full load, but while playing overwatch my cpu generally is around 35c maybe 37c, and the GPU goes up to 70c. I did see one flash of a blink when the cpu hit 55C, not sure why, but it did. Then it was back down at 40c the next blink. While playing overwatch the GPU is at 100%. It took 3 games to hit 70c then i stopped playing. I bought it pre-built from ironside, so i didn't test it with the air cooler, no.

Hmmm... the temp of which component is regulating the pump/fans speeds?

The cpu is cool as can be while the gpu and sweating is a** off. If the pump/fan speeds are govered by cpu temp (very common to be setup that way), that could be the problem? What if you peg the pump/fans speeds to full on, are gpu temps ok then?
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post #22 of 89
Even under light loads the CPU is going to be a few degrees above the water temperature. If your CPU is only in the upper 30's your water is probably in the 30'ish degree range. Your GPU being 70+ while the water is at a pretty reasonable temperature probably has very little to do with getting heat out of the loop through the radiators and everything to do with getting the heat into the loop through your GPU block. Personally I would start by removing the block, reapply thermal paste, and put it back together. If you're feeling ambitious check inside the block to make sure the metal isn't doing anything funny. I wouldn't jump straight to thinking it has to do with your rads and fans when the CPU temp is soooo much lower than the GPU.

Replacing your front fans with something a little more form fitting will probably help a little but that's not your main problem. I'm also going to disagree with what a few people here said and say the top fans exhausting is fine. You could try it the other way around and see if it makes any difference but I always set up loops with one rad intaking and one exhausting and get excellent temps that way. I think your main issue has to be isolated to the GPU and its block. Also check that the water is flowing the correct direction through the GPU block. Some blocks don't seem to care at all and some are really designed to work better flowing one way than the other.

EDIT: just to add a thought, how hot do the rads and tubes feel to the touch? If the loop is picking up heat the way it should and the GPU is over 70 degrees the water would be 50+ and feel HOT to the touch, not just warm. If the water is just warm that's further confirmation the block is likely the issue.
Edited by Fuzzywinks - 6/18/16 at 8:01pm
 
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post #23 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by michael-ocn View Post

Hmmm... the temp of which component is regulating the pump/fans speeds?

The cpu is cool as can be while the gpu and sweating is a** off. If the pump/fan speeds are govered by cpu temp (very common to be setup that way), that could be the problem? What if you peg the pump/fans speeds to full on, are gpu temps ok then?

I have the D5 Vario pump, and i maxed it out with a screw driver. I unplugged it for a moment to see if it was pumping, and the GPU temps shot up to 77c INSTANTLY. I nearly lost my meal out the other end, and hurriedly plugged the power back into the pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzywinks View Post

Even under light loads the CPU is going to be a few degrees above the water temperature. If your CPU is only in the upper 30's your water is probably in the 30'ish degree range. Your GPU being 70+ while the water is at a pretty reasonable temperature probably has very little to do with getting heat out of the loop through the radiators and everything to do with getting the heat into the loop through your GPU block. Personally I would start by removing the block, reapply thermal paste, and put it back together. If you're feeling ambitious check inside the block to make sure the metal isn't doing anything funny. I wouldn't jump straight to thinking it has to do with your rads and fans when the CPU temp is soooo much lower than the GPU.

Replacing your front fans with something a little more form fitting will probably help a little but that's not your main problem. I'm also going to disagree with what a few people here said and say the top fans exhausting is fine. You could try it the other way around and see if it makes any difference but I always set up loops with one rad intaking and one exhausting and get excellent temps that way. I think your main issue has to be isolated to the GPU and its block. Also check that the water is flowing the correct direction through the GPU block. Some blocks don't seem to care at all and some are really designed to work better flowing one way than the other.

EDIT: just to add a thought, how hot do the rads and tubes feel to the touch? If the loop is picking up heat the way it should and the GPU is over 70 degrees the water would be 50+ and feel HOT to the touch, not just warm. If the water is just warm that's further confirmation the block is likely the issue.

I will give that a whirl. Just to feel i felt the exhaust air coming out the back 140mm fan of the case, and it was just as cool as the room, and moving a fair bit of air i might add. I suspected it was the gpu also. Did you see my opening post in the thread regarding the thermal paste job?


+Rep both. Thanks!

Edit: The pump is fed from 2 molex connectors that split from a sata power connector. I think the pump speed is directly from the 1-5 knob on the bottom of the D5 Vario.
Edited by Shiftstealth - 6/18/16 at 8:09pm
 
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post #24 of 89
If you've already pulled the block to check the thermal paste, why didn't you repaste it then? It really seems like the easiest thing to try, & you're obviously comfortable enough pulling the block to be able to do it. I agree that the issue does seem to be isolated to the GPU. Playing with fans might not hurt, but you're not going to see as significant a difference as you're asking about doing that.
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post #25 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlewbell View Post

If you've already pulled the block to check the thermal paste, why didn't you repaste it then? It really seems like the easiest thing to try, & you're obviously comfortable enough pulling the block to be able to do it. I agree that the issue does seem to be isolated to the GPU. Playing with fans might not hurt, but you're not going to see as significant a difference as you're asking about doing that.

I didn't have any paste, and i couldn't get any. I worked 7P-7A last night (I'm here again tonight.), and had to go to sleep for work so i couldn't go out to buy paste. When i took the block off it was already 10AM, and i had to wake up for work in 7.5Hrs frown.gif
 
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post #26 of 89
Your paste job really wasn't a problem. I don't care if the TIM was toothpaste, it would have been within 5 degrees of a proper TIM as long as the seat was good, and it was, as long as it actually looked like that photo as you've represented. Since I'm assuming it wasn't toothpaste, and was actually some form of at least semi respectable TIM, the best you could possibly hope to gain from switching TIMs or performing a reseat would be 1-2 degrees... and that is assuming you don't screw up the new seat and actually make it worse. Adding more TIM to get it spread all the way to all the corners won't actually make the temps any better, as the part of the Die that actually generates heat is about 20% smaller than the total area you see, and more TIM will just add more thermal resistance.

Actual problems:

1) Front radiator has little to no airflow.

2) Top radiator is not isolated (unless you've already fixed this).

3) You haven't really given us a clear idea of your system's airflow, so until that is resolved, I'm going to assume you have every single fan conflicting with each other.

4) The fans you are using are crap.

Solutions:

1) Get fans that are the same size as your radiator and mount them directly to the radiator with no gap in between OR get 140-120mm adapter shrouds and mount your currently existing 140mm fans directly to the shrouds, and the shrouds directly to your front radiator. I don't care if you have 2 foot wide 800000CFM turbojet fans, if they aren't mounted directly to the radiator, or to a shroud which is in turn directly mounted to the radiator, none of the airflow will actually pass through the radiator. Air follows the path of least resistance, and in this case it is your wide open gaps around the radiator, not the dense fins inside of it. You need to prevent that and force the air through the fins if you want that radiator to do anything other than absorb ambient case temps and slightly heat your loop.

2) Isolate your top radiator (if you haven't already). Another user already gave you a wonderful picture showing how. If you don't, you end up with a similar problem to #1, only in this case the path of least resistance is from your radiator back into your case and back into your radiator in an infinite loop. This again results in steadily climbing temps, in this case because of ever increasingly hot air passing through your radiator.

3) Tell us exactly what fans you have where and pointed what direction. Pictures would also be nice. You might not actually have anything to fix here, or you might have to fix everything. We just won't know until you tell us more.

4) Buy better fans. The case's stock fans are ok as case fans, not great, but they'll do. The Corsair fans are garbage. None of your fans are suitable to radiators. The EK Varders you mentioned are great, but are a bit expensive, and often out of stock. If those are not what you want, there are plenty of other good options too. I personally really like Panaflo fans (although they are thicker than standard fans, which while amazing for static pressure, can cause case compatibility issues). Swiftech makes some decent and very cheap fans as well. So do many others. You want something with a high static pressure for radiators, and something with PWM control so that you can take advantage of that wonderful fan controller hub that is built into your phanteks case.
Edited by Zero4549 - 6/18/16 at 9:47pm
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post #27 of 89
Quote:
They are okay, but Gentle Typhoons are much better. They cost a little more but GTs are the best. Ask 10 people who have used GTS how they like them all 10 will rave about their low noise and high performance.

What Zero4549 said above. thumb.gif

You need good fans, and GTs are the best.

Until you block all the holes in the radiator bracket so the air going up through the radiator cannot circle back down you are literally spinning your wheels .. I mean your air. You can tap some cardboard or paper over the big holes and just a piece of tape will cover the small mounting holes. Put it on top of bracket, not bottom. If you don't want to take radiator out to do it, remove the top to access the top of bracket.

You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig interesting. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. I suggest starting with 5th topic. It's geared toward air cooling components, but radiators are air cooled too. tongue.gif
post #28 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

They are okay, but Gentle Typhoons are much better. They cost a little more but GTs are the best. Ask 10 people who have used GTS how they like them all 10 will rave about their low noise and high performance.

What Zero4549 said above. thumb.gif

You need good fans, and GTs are the best.

Until you block all the holes in the radiator bracket so the air going up through the radiator cannot circle back down you are literally spinning your wheels .. I mean your air. You can tap some cardboard or paper over the big holes and just a piece of tape will cover the small mounting holes. Put it on top of bracket, not bottom. If you don't want to take radiator out to do it, remove the top to access the top of bracket.

You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig interesting. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. I suggest starting with 5th topic. It's geared toward air cooling components, but radiators are air cooled too. tongue.gif

I'm just in amazement that bad airflow could cause temps to get that high. I never knew it would be that bad. redface.gif


I think i have some 120's in my old corsair 750D box packed away in storage. Maybe if i have some i'll be able to resolve this in 5 hours. Sorry young guns, but i have to go with the 2 people with the most rep commenting here on the same thing. I'll try paste later. I'm sure that'll help too!
Edited by Shiftstealth - 6/19/16 at 12:03am
 
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post #29 of 89
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiftstealth View Post


I'm just in amazement that bad airflow could cause temps to get that high. I never knew it would be that bad. redface.gif

I think i have some 120's in my old corsair 750D box packed away in storage. Maybe if i have some i'll be able to resolve this in 5 hours. Sorry young guns, but i have to go with the 2 people with the most rep commenting here on the same thing. I'll try paste later. I'm sure that'll help too!
The fans from 750D are worse than what you have now.
Cougar fans are ok, but the frame is a problem like the SP120 you have now and do little to change.
When I used the Cougar fans on rads I noticed air leaking from the sides, similar to the SP120. Those round frames are just not good to use on rads.
    
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 3770k @ 4.2Ghz Asus Z77 Sabertooth EVGA GTX1060 3GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB BLT2K8G3D1608ET... 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Crucial MX100 512GB Corsair Force 115GB WD Green 1TB WD Green 2TB 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Cryorig C1 + XT140 Win7 64 Home SP1 ASUS VE278Q CM Storm Trigger Brown Switch 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX650 NZXT S340 Logitech G500 Razer Goliathus Extended Mouse Pad - Speed 
AudioAudioAudioAudio
Audiotrak Prodigy Cube DAC Edifier S330D 2.1 Speaker Bose AE2 Headphone Superlux 668B Headphone 
AudioAudioOtherOther
Logitech UE 4000 Headphone Sennheiser PC320 Headset MX-4 Thermal Paste (CPU/GPU) 3x 140mm Noctua NF-P14s Redux 1200rpm PWM 
OtherOther
1x 120mm Noctua NF-S12B Redux 1200rpm PWM NZXT 2m Sleeved White LED 
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post #30 of 89
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sp33d Junki3 View Post

The fans from 750D are worse than what you have now.
Cougar fans are ok, but the frame is a problem like the SP120 you have now and do little to change.
When I used the Cougar fans on rads I noticed air leaking from the sides, similar to the SP120. Those round frames are just not good to use on rads.

Looking at my loop, do you think its possible that the top rad is just getting too warm, and cant cool off before the water gets to the GPU. Looking at my loop and thinking about it, that could be an issue. Because the water is cool again by the time it gets to the CPU
 
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Razer Firefly - Cloth Razer Kraken 7.1 V2 Mercury Edition 
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i7 4790k @ 4.6Ghz Asus MAXIMUS VII GENE GTX 980 Ti @ 1400 Mhz 4 x 4GB (16GB) Corsair LPX DDR3 
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Spare Gaming Rig
(11 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 7700k @ 4903 Mhz @1.312v 24/7 Asrock Z270 Taichi eVGA GTX 1080 ACX 3.0 G.Skill Flare X 16GB 3200CL14 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingMonitor
256GB Samsung 850 Pro 1TB Samsung 850 Evo NZXT Kraken X52 Dell S2417DG 165Hz 1440p G-Sync 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Razer Blackwidow X Chroma - Mercury Edition Corsair 750 RM Phanteks Evolv ATX Razer Lancehead Tournament Edition Mercury Edition 
Mouse PadAudio
Razer Firefly - Cloth Razer Kraken 7.1 V2 Mercury Edition 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4790k @ 4.6Ghz Asus MAXIMUS VII GENE GTX 980 Ti @ 1400 Mhz 4 x 4GB (16GB) Corsair LPX DDR3 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
240GB Seagate 1TB RAID HDD Cosair H240 Windows 10 
MonitorKeyboardPower
Asus P278Q Razer BlackWidow Corsair 650W 
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