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Coolant question - can I use this car coolant? - Page 4

post #31 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarathKasun View Post

Not quite true. They use the other part of automotive antifreeze. They put in surficants and corrosion inhibitors. Corrosion is more of an issue at higher temps, and in many racing classes you cant replace parts at will. Some have a limit on replacing parts per season.

I will respectfully disagree lol.

"Typically, we will run oil temperatures of over 100°C, while pressurising the water system at up to 3.75 bar allows the boiling point to be delayed until around 120°C: running these higher temperatures means we require less airflow through the radiators, thus improving aerodynamic performance. As ever, though, these choices carry a penalty: each extra 5°C of water temperature we run, allowing the radiator outlets to be smaller, robs the engine of over 1 bhp."

120°C is the boiling point of water under pressure for formula 1. If they used inhibitors or surfactants and it leaks it ends up on the track and thats a no no.
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

well you are right about them not using antifreeze, but it is not for the reason that you have stated. they don't use it because if there was a accident, the antifreeze would be like a oil all over the track, and will make the entire track slick as well as being difficult to clean up, but most race cars and drag cars, do use water wetter or some other form of additive to the cooling system, I have raced cars both on and off the track for years.

Oh i never stated that it would make it slippery, almost all race tracks have a no ethylene glycol policy on track. The water wetter is for your basic racing and what not, high performing formula 1 engines use no additives or corrosion inhibitors at all (friend of mine works for BMW racing, ive been in the vip section of both Le Mans and Monaco Grand Prix as well as a few days before the races)

Back on topic, i wonder if anyone has ever though of using Evans waterless coolant in a pc loop. Its supposed to be a lifetime coolant.
    
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post #32 of 117
never raced in F1 racing, so I would not know, but I guess that means that you consider every other type of racing as just basic.
post #33 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

never raced in F1 racing, so I would not know, but I guess that means that you consider every other type of racing as just basic.

Nope racing is racing, its the only true sport haha. We got way off topic there huh?

If you got gallons of this stuff sitting around or get it for free id use it. If not its probably cheaper (depending on location) to just run distilled water.
    
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post #34 of 117
That stuff seems legit.

I still want to order a liter or two of Novec. Need to find what kind of hose I can use with it and what size expansion chamber I would need to keep pressure at reasonable levels. Watercooling with no pump and no coolant leak issues. I'm curious if it would be more efficient or not.
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post #35 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarathKasun View Post

That stuff seems legit.

I still want to order a liter or two of Novec. Need to find what kind of hose I can use with it and what size expansion chamber I would need to keep pressure at reasonable levels. Watercooling with no pump and no coolant leak issues. I'm curious if it would be more efficient or not.

Its ridiculously expensive for a gallon and a gallon is way too much for a loop especially if its lifetime. Kinda curious how it flows and the viscosity of it, if a D5 can handle it or not. Fill it once and never fill it again, probably doesnt evaporate like distilled and antifreeze do.
    
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post #36 of 117
Found the video on Novec looks pretty bad ass. Almost works like submerged mineral water. Im digging that start/stop button though i might have to get one and hook it up to my pc thumb.gif

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIbnl3Pj15w
    
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post #37 of 117
3M Novec 7000

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Electronics_NA/Electronics/Products/Electronics_Product_Catalog/~/3M-Novec-7000-Engineered-Fluid?N=8704932+3294002021&rt=rud

$539.99 a bottle if bought in a 24 bottle batch, and you would need that many to submerge your PC anyway, because there not very big bottles
post #38 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

3M Novec 7000

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Electronics_NA/Electronics/Products/Electronics_Product_Catalog/~/3M-Novec-7000-Engineered-Fluid?N=8704932+3294002021&rt=rud

$539.99 a bottle if bought in a 24 bottle batch, and you would need that many to submerge your PC anyway, because there not very big bottles

No, the intention is to put it into a closed loop. Effectively a phase change loop without a compressor. Boil the coolant at the CPU block, vapor rises into the radiator, condenses back into a liquid and returns back to the CPU block.

It would likely have to be a sealed system with hard pipes (copper) connecting things and fully sealing valves at the fill point as it would run at 10-40 PSI. Might need to make the radiators as well, or at least use round tube ones. IDK how flat channel rads would take 40 PSI. Novec 71DE would do (sealed system), and seems to be more available.
Edited by KarathKasun - 6/20/16 at 5:20am
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post #39 of 117
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarathKasun View Post

The big corroding metal is aluminum. Copper will be fine with a touch of automotive antifreeze. If you flush/refill your loop every 6-12 months it should not be a major problem. Frequent flushing with DW is not really recommended, as each flush will start a short cycle of fast corrosion as the water stabilizes itself with ions from the metals.

LOL, you could look at alternative coolants. 3M has some mighty interesting products that can put water to shame (novec). You would end up with a passive phase change loop at that point though.

Hmm.. I got more confused than I started smile.gif
Can you please kindly answer to each point below? biggrin.gif

1. So if I use DW, I shouldn't flush every 6-12 months?
2. Using silver+copper+nickel plates+brass+tin is ok with DW?
3. I thought that flushing the water and filling new DW will eliminate corrosion. How come it's not the case?
4. Is it true that if the water pH is neutral (7?) then it's an indication that there's no corrosion?
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post #40 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

Hmm.. I got more confused than I started smile.gif
Can you please kindly answer to each point below? biggrin.gif

1. So if I use DW, I shouldn't flush every 6-12 months?
2. Using silver+copper+nickel plates+brass+tin is ok with DW?
3. I thought that flushing the water and filling new DW will eliminate corrosion. How come it's not the case?
4. Is it true that if the water pH is neutral (7?) then it's an indication that there's no corrosion?

#1 With straight DW I would only flush once it starts to look nasty/cloudy. Silver can stave this off for awhile.
#2 I would say yes, the tiny amount of silver is acceptable because it will prolong the time between flushing
#3 DW has no ions in it, yet is "craves" ions to reach equilibrium with the metals containing it. Once it reaches that equilibrium (by leaching them from the metals) corrosion slows down significantly.
#4 PH is not the only source of corrosion. Its the chemical reaction known as oxidization. Water is H2O, it has oxygen in it, its not in equilibrium so it is reactive, it can only trade hydrogen or oxygen and oxygen is more reactive, thus oxidization.

Water is called the universal solvent for a reason. With high enough temperatures it dissolves pretty much anything.
Edited by KarathKasun - 6/20/16 at 6:03am
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