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Coolant question - can I use this car coolant? - Page 8

post #71 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Costas View Post

Problem these days is that it can get difficult to arrange for an all copper loop.

A lot of blocks are not necessarily available in copper any more (nickel plated only).

Of more concern is the fact that our rads are not ideally 100% all copper either. For instance, the solder that's used is an alloy which contains all sorts of metals and many are substantially widely different on the galvanic index scale.

On the issue of thickening of auto based coolants - this is actually quite common when these coolants are mixed (different brands/types). If you stick to the one flavour you should not have an issue.

I have also been running auto based coolants in PC loops since the late 80's with great results so tend to stick with them as they are readily available, relatively cheap but perform well.

My current system is using a common (here in Aus) auto based coolant - 4.5 litres worth... It cost me $12 for a 5L bottle.

Its just a basic ready to use coolant for conventional non aluminium based engines. Contains approx. 6% ethylene glycol straight out of the bottle.

I used Tectaloy's 60 plus premixed coolant for this build as I was wanting a green coolant that was also UV reactive...





Your info is dead on thanks for the posts, im not the only one who has common knowledge on the subject. Im not gonna lie that looks totally bad ass haha.

Btw any coolant can be made UV reactive if you buy coolant UV dye for it. its a bit harder to find but even mayhems UV liquid wont glow as much as this stuff, its made to last as well. Ive used it before in slow leaks where cars would come back 6months later and it would still react to UV light.
    
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post #72 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

I'm from Australia as well. I thought of using Nulon blue car coolant (if it's not OAT based). Did you ever try the Nulon brand? Do yo buy it from SuperCheap Auto?

I have not used Nulon however I know lots of others that have without a problem. Just stay away from the Organic Acid types as these operate differently and are more optimal for aluminium based engine environments rather than the copper, nickel, brass type that makes up our typical loops.

SuperCheap and Autobarn sell a large range - I used the Tectaloy stuff as I chose it due to its specific bright green translucent colour. The longer life coolants tend to be of a much darker shade which I did not want for this build.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

And lastly, what's the mix ratio you use with distilled water?

Mix it down to say 5% to 15%. The overall ratio is really determined as to what shade you want the coolant colour to end up with.

The Tectaloy 60 Plus coolant I used comes already diluted (premixed) and the glycol content is around the 6% mark. I used it straight out of the bottle as its already diluted with distilled water and is not a concentrate as such.
You can also purchase concentrates but these worked out more expensive by the time I purchased distilled water as well. The 5L premixed bottles I purchased were on special a few weeks ago - marked down to $8 for a 5L container (normally around $12 to $16 depending on store). So for myself it is a cheap coolant solution, especially as I require 4.5L to fill my loop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

P.S. - your loop resembles Jay's 2 cents 'Skunkworks' build. He used yellow pastel colour and recently changed to green as well.
you use 2 loops, one for CPU and one for GPU's?

While at first look they may look sort of similar they really are quite different.

My build utilises a single loop for all the hardware (Mobo VRM stage, CPU & GPUs)

The dual reservoirs are actually connected in pure parallel fashion and function together as one large reservoir. They have the advantage that they operate at half the pressure restriction of an individual reservoir and will bleed air out of my loop twice as efficiently as compared to a single reservoir.

Jay must have copied me as I went green months ago.....tongue.gif

Check out my 'DejaVu' build log (link in sig below) for further detail and pics on the build.
Edited by Costas - 6/30/16 at 3:26am
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post #73 of 117
Thread Starter 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Costas View Post

I have not used Nulon however I know lots of others that have without a problem. Just stay away from the Organic Acid types as these operate differently and are more optimal for aluminium based engine environments rather than the copper, nickel, brass type that makes up our typical loops.

SuperCheap and Autobarn sell a large range - I used the Tectaloy stuff as I chose it due to its specific bright green translucent colour. The longer life coolants tend to be of a much darker shade which I did not want for this build.
Mix it down to say 5% to 15%. The overall ratio is really determined as to what shade you want the coolant colour to end up with.

The Tectaloy 60 Plus coolant I used comes already diluted (premixed) and the glycol content is around the 6% mark. I used it straight out of the bottle as its already diluted with distilled water and is not a concentrate as such.
You can also purchase concentrates but these worked out more expensive by the time I purchased distilled water as well. The 5L premixed bottles I purchased were on special a few weeks ago - marked down to $8 for a 5L container (normally around $12 to $16 depending on store). So for myself it is a cheap coolant solution, especially as I require 4.5L to fill my loop.
While at first look they may look sort of similar they really are quite different.

My build utilises a single loop for all the hardware (Mobo VRM stage, CPU & GPUs)

The dual reservoirs are actually connected in pure parallel fashion and function together as one large reservoir. They have the advantage that they operate at half the pressure restriction of an individual reservoir and will bleed air out of my loop twice as efficiently as compared to a single reservoir.

Jay must have copied me as I went green months ago.....tongue.gif

Check out my 'DejaVu' build log (link in sig below) for further detail and pics on the build.

Mate, your build is simply beautiful! I envy you... this is what I want to achieve one day. Simply amazing stuff you've done there.

You got me thinking now on my build... smile.gif

So here's the deal with my build and the reason I started this thread:

Here is a port I did where I asked for advice on my build: http://www.overclock.net/t/1603381/need-to-make-changes-to-my-wc-system-please-help#post_25268408
it's quite a long post but main points are that I need to clean my loop without removing the radiators due to lack of time, remove the 2nd dual-bay res and thus redeisng my loop for better efficiency, find an easy way to create a fill port and eventually rewire electrical and bleed air.

Do you have some pointers for me? Things to look out for? Anything to think of while doing this? Since I have 2 toddlers and I gave up my freedom when I got married, I have low budget and time, yet it's been over a year with the current liquid, and it's time to replace but also to do some housekeeping smile.gif


As for coolant, what do you think of Mayhems XT-1? It uses biocide additive which is probably Copper Sulfate and that may damage my GPU blocks which are nickel plated.

Lastly, what's the point of buying a 5L coolant if the liquid doesn't warrant replacing every year? The 5L coolant has a shelf life after all, doesn't it? just curious.

p.s. - are you from Sydney?
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post #74 of 117
I seen a guy run 2% milk and orange juice in his waterloop. You'll be fine with just distilled water and the kill coil. I just use distilled with 3 drops of PT Nuke, a bottle I've had for 5+ years, and is still mostly full... lol
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post #75 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 
I need to clean my loop without removing the radiators

Only real option if not removing the rads is to use an external pump and connect each rad (one at a time) to a source of cleaning fluid (of your choice) via the pump and a filter.

You can then keep cycling the fluid around through the filter say overnight to catch all the fragments floating about.

You really need a high volume/flow pump for this as you really need to stir up the fluid flow inside the rad that you are cleaning so that all the bits released will flow out of the rad into the filter.

Otherwise your best bet is to remove the rads and clean them outside of the case - At least that way you can do the shake & dance routine to try and dislodge any loose bits inside the rad.

As far as fluid goes - I generally just use hot water via a hot water tap - Connect it up to my rad and let it flow for 30 mins to an hour...! Then flush with distilled.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 
As for coolant, what do you think of Mayhems XT-1? It uses biocide additive which is probably Copper Sulfate and that may damage my GPU blocks which are nickel plated.

Not familiar with the Mayhems coolants ie. I have not used them. You can always contact them via their support line and ask them as to whether it contains any copper sulphate solution etc..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 
Lastly, what's the point of buying a 5L coolant if the liquid doesn't warrant replacing every year? The 5L coolant has a shelf life after all, doesn't it? just curious.

My rig uses just over 4.5L to fill...!! so not much left over...smile.gif Also car coolants have a relatively long shelf life - measured in years...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 
p.s. - are you from Sydney?

Adelaide
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 
Mate, your build is simply beautiful! I envy you... this is what I want to achieve one day. Simply amazing stuff you've done there.

Thanks...thumb.gif
Edited by Costas - 6/30/16 at 6:44am
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post #76 of 117
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Costas View Post

I have not used Nulon however I know lots of others that have without a problem. Just stay away from the Organic Acid types as these operate differently and are more optimal for aluminium based engine environments rather than the copper, nickel, brass type that makes up our typical loops.

SuperCheap and Autobarn sell a large range - I used the Tectaloy stuff as I chose it due to its specific bright green translucent colour. The longer life coolants tend to be of a much darker shade which I did not want for this build.
Mix it down to say 5% to 15%. The overall ratio is really determined as to what shade you want the coolant colour to end up with.

The Tectaloy 60 Plus coolant I used comes already diluted (premixed) and the glycol content is around the 6% mark. I used it straight out of the bottle as its already diluted with distilled water and is not a concentrate as such.
You can also purchase concentrates but these worked out more expensive by the time I purchased distilled water as well. The 5L premixed bottles I purchased were on special a few weeks ago - marked down to $8 for a 5L container (normally around $12 to $16 depending on store). So for myself it is a cheap coolant solution, especially as I require 4.5L to fill my loop.
While at first look they may look sort of similar they really are quite different.

My build utilises a single loop for all the hardware (Mobo VRM stage, CPU & GPUs)

The dual reservoirs are actually connected in pure parallel fashion and function together as one large reservoir. They have the advantage that they operate at half the pressure restriction of an individual reservoir and will bleed air out of my loop twice as efficiently as compared to a single reservoir.

Jay must have copied me as I went green months ago.....tongue.gif

Check out my 'DejaVu' build log (link in sig below) for further detail and pics on the build.

Hi again smile.gif

So I bought a Nulon coolant and after opening it to sample its effect on a small piece of my water tubing, I found that it's OAT based.
Very fine print.

I wasn't able to find a blue non-OAT coolant. Are you familiar with any?

If not, then my only option is to use the Meyhams XT-1 which is based on non-toxic Ethylene Glycol concentrate and I don't know what should be the mix ratio to make sure algae and corrosion won't take place.
Any advice?
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post #77 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

Hi again smile.gif

So I bought a Nulon coolant and after opening it to sample its effect on a small piece of my water tubing, I found that it's OAT based.
Very fine print.

I wasn't able to find a blue non-OAT coolant. Are you familiar with any?

If not, then my only option is to use the Meyhams XT-1 which is based on non-toxic Ethylene Glycol concentrate and I don't know what should be the mix ratio to make sure algae and corrosion won't take place.
Any advice?

I'd save yourself the trouble and just get Mayhems XT-1 or X1, Its been used widespread in many systems, and it does the job.
post #78 of 117
Corrosion should be a non issue. Don't use aluminum. You will be fine
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post #79 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

Hi again smile.gif

So I bought a Nulon coolant and after opening it to sample its effect on a small piece of my water tubing, I found that it's OAT based.
Very fine print.

I wasn't able to find a blue non-OAT coolant. Are you familiar with any?

If not, then my only option is to use the Meyhams XT-1 which is based on non-toxic Ethylene Glycol concentrate and I don't know what should be the mix ratio to make sure algae and corrosion won't take place.
Any advice?

There's no such thing as "non-toxic" ethylene glycol. That's like saying "non-toxic cyanide." It is a logical fallacy and doesn't exist. Of course, as long as you don't drink it, you're fine, but I think they are being dishonest when they say EG is non-toxic. That's straight up BS.
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post #80 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post


I wasn't able to find a blue non-OAT coolant.

Auto coolants stick to a specific colour code although there are some overlaps.

Non OAT type coolants generally tend to be the red and light green types... although I have also seen some red OAT based coolants.

OAT based ones are usually the blue, pink, orange or even very dark green.
Edited by Costas - 8/8/16 at 3:42pm
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Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Coolant question - can I use this car coolant?