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Coolant question - can I use this car coolant? - Page 9

post #81 of 117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles3000 View Post

I'd save yourself the trouble and just get Mayhems XT-1 or X1, Its been used widespread in many systems, and it does the job.

Ok but where is my concern:
I have the XT-1 and I'm still unsure what should be the mix ratio with distilled water to create 1 litre of liquid.
In addition, I'd like to use Meyhams blue dye, but people say it stains the blocks and it sometimes breaks apart, or something along these lines.
That is why I was opting for blue car coolant. But the blue car coolant has OAT in it so I can't use it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

Corrosion should be a non issue. Don't use aluminum. You will be fine

Corrosion will happen after a while since my loop is not pure copper.
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post #82 of 117
I don't remember everything in this thread (sorry) but copper, brass and stainless steel will be fine together. The listed above materials covers pretty much every mainstream water cooling part anything that would corrode will corrode so slowly you would replace it long before anything dies. People need to stop using corrosion as a scare tactic to premix coolant

Unless you are using a few other metals found in ebay cheap stuffs
Edited by Mega Man - 8/9/16 at 4:00am
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post #83 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mega Man View Post

I don't remember everything in this thread (sorry) but copper, brass and stainless steel will be fine together. The listed above materials covers pretty much every mainstream water cooling part anything that would corrode will corrode so slowly you would replace it long before anything dies. People need to stop using corrosion as a scare tactic to premix coolant

Unless you are using a few other metals found in ebay cheap stuffs
Correct for the most part, though it may still be a good idea to use a corrosion inhibitor if you're using a silver coil as a biocide in a loop with nickel-plated blocks. Along those lines, though, I should point out that Water Wetter is a surfactant, not a corrosion inhibitor, and it's completely unnecessary unless the corrosion inhibitor you do use is incredibly viscous, which it shouldn't be.
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post #84 of 117
Well
1 don't use silver

2 don't use silver + nickel but mostly just #1
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post #85 of 117
I've gone through just about every page in this thread trying to learn as much as I can about custom liquid cooling because I am considering building a loop for my system. Here are the points I've seen - someone please correct me if I'm wrong:


Definitely do:

- Use distilled water with a biocide additive
- Use Copper or Brass fittings
- Flush every 6 to 12 months

Probably okay:

- Use automotive antifreeze cut with DW to thin the mixture (but not with biocide or silver)
- Use corrosion inhibitor
- Mix metals via nickel fittings / plates
- Use silver kill coils (but not with automotive antifreeze)

Never do:
- Use aluminum because it will corrode


I miss anything big? I feel like I'm forgetting something in the "never do" section....
Edited by Dienz - 8/9/16 at 5:15am
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post #86 of 117
Thread Starter 
This is a lost cause.

I never imagined water cooling would be so complicated. Mostly the liquid part.

Some say I'd be find with just distilled water. Some say I must use biocide. Some say use silver coil. Some say I'd be safe using whatever.

BUT each of these claims have issues.

I can't use silver coil with nickel plated water blocks.
I can't use biocide based on Sulfate Copper (Su) with nickel plated water blocks.
I can't just use distilled water.
I have XT-1 which I read is not so good at keeping algae from the loop. But instructions say not to add biocide to it.

I don't know what to use anymore. Can someone really assist here? I'm sure I'm not the only one who has mixed metals in their loop and is also seeking to make the loop as low maintenance as possible by using the best possible liquid for their loop.
Such that will keep algae away and also control corrosion.
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post #87 of 117
I'v never had a problem with just distilled, and silver coil in six or so year. Perhaps it has already been posted on this page, but which metals you mix matter.


Aluminum alloy is bad because it is so far from copper on anodic index, well silver, copper, and nickel are all very close.Yes, eventually any of the metals will be corrosive when mixed, but if you are doing proper maintenance you will never see a problem.

The problem with anti-freeze is viscosity, resulting in lower overall system flow rates, as well thermal conductivity and specific heat is not as good as water.
Edited by Piraal - 8/9/16 at 5:57am
post #88 of 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gil80 View Post

This is a lost cause.

I never imagined water cooling would be so complicated. Mostly the liquid part.

Some say I'd be find with just distilled water. Some say I must use biocide. Some say use silver coil. Some say I'd be safe using whatever.

BUT each of these claims have issues.

I can't use silver coil with nickel plated water blocks.
I can't use biocide based on Sulfate Copper (Su) with nickel plated water blocks.
I can't just use distilled water.
I have XT-1 which I read is not so good at keeping algae from the loop. But instructions say not to add biocide to it.

I don't know what to use anymore. Can someone really assist here? I'm sure I'm not the only one who has mixed metals in their loop and is also seeking to make the loop as low maintenance as possible by using the best possible liquid for their loop.
Such that will keep algae away and also control corrosion.

The only one making this complicated is you. tongue.gif

Just use your XT-1 it'll be fine.

As for mixing ratios and other information, its all on Mayhem's product page.
https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/other/xt-1-coolant/xt-1-250ml-uv-blue-coolant/
post #89 of 117
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Piraal View Post

The problem with anti-freeze is viscosity, resulting in lower overall system flow rates, as well thermal conductivity and specific heat is not as good as water.

I disagree. at these small amounts to be used in computer cooling systems, the viscosity and thermal conductivity are so minimal, it won't affect your cooling performance at all.
Edited by Gil80 - 8/9/16 at 6:06am
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post #90 of 117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles3000 View Post

The only one making this complicated is you. tongue.gif

Just use your XT-1 it'll be fine.

As for mixing ratios and other information, its all on Mayhem's product page.
https://mayhems.co.uk/coolants/other/xt-1-coolant/xt-1-250ml-uv-blue-coolant/

I won't be fine. people are reporting issues regarding algae with this.

It's going to be the second time strip the components apart for cleaning, all due to the EK EVO blue coolant which didn't keep algae away.
so for the third time I must get it right.
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Roccat Kone XTD Laser Rantopad Mammoth Creative SoundBlaster Z Series Audioengine +5 Speakers 
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My Uber rig
(30 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Core i7 3770K Asus P8Z77-V-Deluxe Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce OC Battlefield 4 Gigabyte R9 290 Windforce OC 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Vengeance 1600 WD Black 2TB Intel SSD 520 240GB Crucial MX100 512GB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy EVO CPU block XSPC Dual Bay Reservoir EK Blue Coolant Liquid 2 x EK R9 290 Water Block 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK D5 Vario Pump with Plexi Top Alphacool 420/60mm Radiator Alphacool 280/45mm Radiator Barrows Compression Fittings 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
12 x Phantakes 140mm Fans EK Primochill tubing EK X3 250mm Water Reservoir  Win8.1 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
3xDell 24" U2412M Corsair K70 RGB Cherry Mx Brown Seasonic X-1050 Phanteks Enthoo Primo 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Roccat Kone XTD Laser Rantopad Mammoth Creative SoundBlaster Z Series Audioengine +5 Speakers 
Audio
AudioTechnica ATH-900X Headphones 
  hide details  
Reply
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