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post #11 of 226
Thread Starter 
I was going to use quotes but we seem to be the only one talking. So it makes it easier to follow. Anyhoo. I did as you suggested and set it to 4.2ghz with the rest of the settings the same. PC crashed/reset, which I figured it would considering that 1.368 was the first time 4.0ghz was really stable. I say that lightly because LLC originally being on auto has made me look like an idiot. Given the fact that auto LLC can actually raise voltages, you would think that they would have a disable option and it be set at stock.
I've watched a lot of vids on overclocking and tbh they have never given explanation why you should raise NB voltage. Your explanation makes perfect sense and I didn't need to raise it because I didn't raise the CPU/NB speed at all. So, I'm going back to the 1.187 (or even try 1.15).
I did get the PC to boot at 4.1, but I don't look for it make it long in Prime. So, now my move is to leave at 4.1 and lower NB voltage back to default. Then I'll run Prime. Given the fact that CPU LLC @ medium drops vcore by 0.03v under full load, I might be able to set it at high. That should get it closer to the manual setting of 1.368 and even allow the 4.1-4.2. I'm thinking that if putting it on high and it causes the vcore go over, then I should be able to lower the manual vcore settings.
To answer your question, I do have turbo core disabled along with c1e, cool n quiet, c6, and apm(?). I did leave svm enabled because I use an android emulator which, to my understanding, wouldn't work with svm turned off.
Lastly, is Cool n Quiet even possible on overclocks?
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post #12 of 226
Thread Starter 
As I figured, PC:headscrat crashed a couple of minutes into prime. So at the 1.368v and CPU LLC @ medium, 4.1-4.2 is a no go. So, I decided to run with CPU LLC at high. So the readings as follows:

4.1ghz
1.368v (manual set)
1.38v (because of LLC) on idle
idle temps @ 27-34c

during Prime-
1.368v
highest temp 59c

The odd thing is that Core Temp showed a max of 102c, but I never saw it get that high. For the most part it was 57-59c. Unfortunately, PC crashed 30 minutes into Prime.
So, I'm not sure where to go with this except to raise the manual vcore.........headscratch.gif
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post #13 of 226
Thread Starter 
I've thought about some things and I'm drawing a blank. The biggest hold back is whether Asus AI Suite 3 is the correct temps or is SpeedFan/Core Temp. If I can ever figure that out then I would feel safe about pushing for more overclock.

I took off the Hyper TX3 and cleaned both it and the cpu. Then I replaced the thermal paste. I think I put too much the last time and went back to a pea sized amount. Which was the last of the thermal paste anyways. I'll have to buy some more later. Maybe I'll get some Arctic Silver.

I've rerouted my case fans to where there all on the case controller except the rear exhaust. Would have done that one too, but I ran out of plugs. I'd rather be in control of how fast my fans are and, given how hot is in the house even with a/c on, I'm running them at full speed. Personally I think that I need better case fans, but at $7-8 a piece that's any where's between $21 and $42 depending on how many I replace and if they're $7 a fan. At that cost I'd be better off buying an AIO liquid cooler. Or a bigger air cooler at the least.

I, also, removed the fan shield from the top of the case. It does have slots in that angle toward the back. However, there are 11 slots that are each a quarter inch. I feel that it blocks airflow way too much.

Another thing that I'm contemplating is the location of the computer. My desk is an L or a J shape (depending on your point of view). My PC sits under it with a 10-12 inch gap between top of case and the desk. Most of the heat comes back at me, which makes me wonder if I should move the PC, leave it where it's at but aim a small box fan at the top area, or just leave it as is.

All of this circles back to the AI Suite 3. It reads cpu temp as 43c and motherboard temp as 30c. Core Temp and SpeedFan still reads 26c min and 34c max. Which one do I believe?

I don't mean to be a pain, but all of what I've said in this post has everything to do with the overclock. If I can't determine which is the most accurate temp, then I can't know if I'm within safe limits or if I'm cooking my cpu/mobo.
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post #14 of 226
On both my CHIV-F and CHV-Z Asus AI Suite has always been buggy.
In the CHV thread it's always recommended to uninstall which can get complicated for some.

Have you tried HWInfo64 yet? It usually works best for Asus mobos.
A little relabeling etc and it looks like this Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
much more complete.

I think you're getting confused, Speedfan shows CPU Core temp while AI Suite shows CPU Socket temp IIRC. It's been early in the Thuban days since I've used AI Suite biggrin.gif
As for LLC most end up using one under the highest setting however its worded in your Bios. (Very High for the CHV-Z)
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post #15 of 226
Thread Starter 
Okay, I think I'm starting to get the picture a little. Here's what HWMonitor and HWinfo64 shows for my temps:




So at the current moment my core temp is fine. I know it shouldn't be over 60c. What's max temp for socket? 29c-34c on core @ idle in my not so cool room isn't bad then. right?

Also, would my 500w PSU be able to handle that high of an LLC? Wish I could figure out how to link my sig..........
Edited by Andromydous - 6/26/16 at 4:28pm
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post #16 of 226
70c max on socket.
You should add active cooling for CPU socket and the VRMs Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I do and both my CPU and VRMs have WBs.

Idle temps mean nothing, it's always about fully loaded values.

500 watts should be ample but unsure of the EVGA 500w. I've read something when researching my 850 G2 but can't remember what it was I read about the lower power builds from EVGA. (my guess is you're fine)
You can search thru these for all you'll need to know about PSUs
http://www.overclock.net/t/1537453/installed-a-new-3tb-hd-only-showing-2/10#post_23445027 (links in sig of poster)
http://www.overclock.net/t/715889/phaedrus-psu-articles#post9110838
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post #17 of 226
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I was reading a few minutes ago about adding a fan over the vrm's or behind the socket. I'm not sure of how to fit one over the vrm due to the Hyper TX3.

I know idle temps aren't as important as the full load temps, but when I thought that AI Suite 3 was telling me core temp was 45c, I got kinda of concerned considering all the fans and the aftermarket cooler I have. Now that I know what's what, I can proceed with trying to get a higher overclock. Don't know if it will be the next few days though. We're supposed to have some storms here and I turn my pc of at every switch thinkable during a storm.

In the middle of all this I just realized there are actually 2 people responding to me. doh.gif So, sorry. I am very much thankful for all the help from both of you. I've learned so much lately.

On a side note.....If I can fit a fan on there, should I have the fan pulling the heat off the vrm or attempt to blow air onto the vrm?
Edited by Andromydous - 6/26/16 at 6:38pm
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post #18 of 226
In case you have a need, here's a nice place to learn a lot of the basics http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard

As for the additional fans yes they both will help. Even the fan off the stock HS (80mm) helps if nothing larger can be fit in. Zip ties will hold it in place if ness biggrin.gif
If your case doesn't have a mount/cutout in the right side cover for the backside of the socket/VRM there's always the "ole side panel mod" if it's ness.

Remember the power is in the outer 2/3 of the fan blade so offset the mount for this purpose, same on either side of the mobo.
Another good reason to add fans here is to help prevent heat soak from VRM to Socket. I run a 90mm on front side and a 120mm on the backside.

It may pay just to play a little and see what you can fit and how it reacts. The 6300 shouldn't be all that bad power wise but lower temps are what it's really all about.
I'm not sure of your over all goal but I do know OCing is an addiction and this usually becomes more of an issue as you raise the clock.
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post #19 of 226
The EVGA 500w 80+ is not a very good power supply for overclocking.

Here is a link to a reputable review
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story&reid=384

Here is a link to the thread on this site about it.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1500086/why-you-should-not-buy-an-evga-400-600-and-500b-600b/0_20]

I wouldn't outright call it a bad power supply, just not one suitable for anything but a normal use PC. From the article and a thread on this sight, the EVGA 80+ Bronze versions are much better and are also quite affordable.

Here is a link to the bronze version on amazon. Currently $40.
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-BRONZE-Continuous-Warranty-100-B1-0500-KR/dp/B00DZ6R9GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466993423&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+500w+80+bronze+certified+atx+power+supply


I have 2 of the 600w 80+ models (not bronze) but I used one for a benchtop power supply to power car audio and the other one I use in an amd kabini build (low power demand). I have the asus pro/aura mobo as well but I am not using that power supply to overclock the FX8320e on it. Read the thread in the post above mine. It was very helpful for me in getting my cpu up to 4.6ghz.
post #20 of 226
Thread Starter 
Sand, I would like to get more out of it than turbo core provides, but mainly I just want to learn. I have a pc building addiction that is greatly inhibited by budget. So every year from about this time till February, I drive my wife crazy with plotting/scheming my next build. I'm going to attempt take some pics of my computer's location and get an inside pic. I have a hard time getting myself down and up off the floor (sad considering I'm only 39), so it's going to be an adventure by itself.

Jericho, thank you for joining and thank you for your input. I don't want a heavy overclock. I'm kinda satisfied with the 4.0ghz 24/7, but 4.3ghz would be great. I don't like default optimized because it raises the vcore to 1.45v just to get 4.1. I realize that it's only for a couple of the cores (or 4), but it's still high in my opinion. Since I do game a lot and that game list includes Skyrim, GTAV, Arkham Knights, and Rise of the Tomb Raider (maybe), I'm using more than one or two cores more often than not. I also do video editing as well. I say maybe on RotTR because idk how many cores it uses.

I'm aware of things I can get to make my pc run better. That's one of the reasons I got into building pc's. Back in the day (90's), if you bought a pre-built, there wasn't a whole lot you could do to upgrade your pc. It could be done, but usually there wasn't a ton of room and the boards were custom made for that particular pc. So, I got tired of it and started building whenever I got a chance. There's three computers in my house: one for my wife, one for my son, and one for me. Took me a year to be able to build each one.

So, what I'm getting at is that by building my own, I can build a budget pc and then upgrade as needed later on. As I said in the beginning post, I made a tough choice to keep the ssd in my plans. I should have opted for a bronze or better psu and the motherboard I now have. Lesson learned, but it'll work out. When I get a chance, I plan to upgrade psu and possibly go to an aio cooler. I can then take the "old" psu and cooler and put them in my son's pc. He's running on stock cooler and a 300w psu. He's not gaming on that pc right now.
Edited by Andromydous - 6/26/16 at 7:54pm
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