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post #31 of 226
stress tests are nice and everything, if it is mostly for gaming i wouldnt be too worried about running prime for hours on end. 1 hour with a pass and a few separate 20-30 min passes in prime and i call it good. anyone who says 24 better mean for professional use imo, not even worth the ware on the pc.

now like others said 70 is the max, and keep in mind when the gpu starts running the temps could go a bit higher even. so i might watch them the first few times you start gaming on whatever the most demanding game you have is. Though i had to stop running hw monitor 24/7 due to bluescreens in one of the new games i play thats still beta, it is nice to see the temps and check them every so often. i have a setting in bios to give me a warning if i ever hit 70. while 70 wont do damage hitting it once or twice, even 80-90 likely wont, but prolonged use or regularly hitting those temps might.

and llc is everything for me, i push it to extreme then drop my volts till its unstable and raise it a few notches.

from everything i see you have stayed in very safe temps and voltages so far. though didnt read super close and am unfamiliar with that mobo
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post #32 of 226
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaredismee View Post

stress tests are nice and everything, if it is mostly for gaming i wouldnt be too worried about running prime for hours on end. 1 hour with a pass and a few separate 20-30 min passes in prime and i call it good. anyone who says 24 better mean for professional use imo, not even worth the ware on the pc.

now like others said 70 is the max, and keep in mind when the gpu starts running the temps could go a bit higher even. so i might watch them the first few times you start gaming on whatever the most demanding game you have is. Though i had to stop running hw monitor 24/7 due to bluescreens in one of the new games i play thats still beta, it is nice to see the temps and check them every so often. i have a setting in bios to give me a warning if i ever hit 70. while 70 wont do damage hitting it once or twice, even 80-90 likely wont, but prolonged use or regularly hitting those temps might.

and llc is everything for me, i push it to extreme then drop my volts till its unstable and raise it a few notches.

from everything i see you have stayed in very safe temps and voltages so far. though didnt read super close and am unfamiliar with that mobo

TBH, the board came out at the beginning of this year and ASUS is releasing a Sabertooth for AM3+ soon as well. You would think they wouldn't considering that "Zen" is just around the corner. Like I told the others, I'm gonna stay with the stock settings until I get a better heatsink. As far as LLC, I'm still learning about it and it seems that extreme would give too much volts even at idle. Oh, and thank you so much for responding.
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post #33 of 226
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I've been thinking and I think that having the heat sink fans blowing toward top exhaust is a bad idea. While I do have 2 120mm fans up top. I think that it's drawing/adding heat from gpu to the cpu which partially cancels out the heatsink's job. I could be wrong.

On a different note, I cleaned my pc and worked on getting the cables managed better the other day. I discovered that my case does have a cut out behind the socket. So, I may indeed try to find a way to put a fan on it. I don't know why I forgot about the cut out.
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post #34 of 226
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andromydous View Post

I've been thinking and I think that having the heat sink fans blowing toward top exhaust is a bad idea. While I do have 2 120mm fans up top. I think that it's drawing/adding heat from gpu to the cpu which partially cancels out the heatsink's job. I could be wrong.

On a different note, I cleaned my pc and worked on getting the cables managed better the other day. I discovered that my case does have a cut out behind the socket. So, I may indeed try to find a way to put a fan on it. I don't know why I forgot about the cut out.

Most do run cooler with air traveling front to back.

Have you tried running top "front" fan as intake while top "rear" is exhaust?
Maybe try both as intake?

Fan behind mobo works best when mounted to right side cover.
Depending on clearance between mobo and inside surface of rt hand cover determines fan thickness.
Scythe does make some 120 x 12mm for tight fits but 25mm's plain work better/quieter
Here are a few if you find you need something less than 25mm thickness http://www.performance-pcs.com/120-x-12-20mm-fans.

Remember to offset the fan center (dead spot) and focus the outer 2/3 of the blade over target thumb.gif
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post #35 of 226
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Sandman View Post

Most do run cooler with air traveling front to back.

Have you tried running top "front" fan as intake while top "rear" is exhaust?
Maybe try both as intake?

Fan behind mobo works best when mounted to right side cover.
Depending on clearance between mobo and inside surface of rt hand cover determines fan thickness.
Scythe does make some 120 x 12mm for tight fits but 25mm's plain work better/quieter
Here are a few if you find you need something less than 25mm thickness http://www.performance-pcs.com/120-x-12-20mm-fans.

Remember to offset the fan center (dead spot) and focus the outer 2/3 of the blade over target thumb.gif

I don't think there's even that much room between cover and motherboard. I did some cleaning and better cable management the other day and there just doesn't seem to be room for a fan and a cover.

When I installed the heatsink, originally, I assumed that blowing air across the cpu and up through the 2 exhaust fans would be best. I didn't consider I might be bringing the gpu heat with it. Nor did I consider that turning the heatsink toward the rear exhaust would potentially blow air across the vrm's. I'm out of thermal paste right now. I know it doesn't cost much, but my wife's car is having some problems and that takes priority.
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post #36 of 226
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I just ordered a new cpu cooler. As you'll see in the pic, it's a very sleek looking cooler with 5 heat pipes. As an added bonus, it has blue LED. So the black color with the blue LED will go great in my black/blue system. At the bargain price I couldn't pass it up. Tell me what you think! yessir.gif

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post #37 of 226
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Just got my new cooler in. I know that idle doesn't mean a whole lot when it comes to overclocking, but if current idle temps are any indication of what it can do then I'm excited. However, putting that beast on was a pain. I ended up having to take my motherboard out. Even when I put the mb back in, I had a hell of a time getting one of the mb screws in, because it sat between the cooler and the top of the case. So here is the new temps on idle. Keep in mind it's at stock bios settings.



Ran Cinebench and max temp was 31.1c on core and 39c on board. Too tired to try overclocking it. Should be able to get a decent overclock though.
Edited by Andromydous - 7/30/16 at 11:40am
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post #38 of 226
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I'm stuck. I got to where I was testing at 4.4ghz. It failed, but not because of temps. I still had about 10c headroom on the core and about 7-8c headroom on socket. The problem is that at 1.44v the test failed. In bios that number turned yellow and I'm not sure if I should push the voltage more or just back it down to 4.3ghz with a 1.43v and do my longer test there. Gotta say that despite being a pain to install, I am happy with the new cooler.

There is also a minor thing. When the computer starts up it takes a few seconds for the fan to start. Just enough time to trigger a "CPU Fan fail". By the time the error hits, the fan starts and all I do is go into bios, hit F10, and hit discard changes and exit. Like I said just a minor annoyance.

What do I do now? I followed that guide ya'll pointed me to. I did set CPU LLC at high (the least vdrop), CPU current and CPU/NB current at 110% rather than 130%, and CPU/NB LLC at regular. Other than those options, I followed the guide almost to a tee. Do I push the voltage a little more? Do I just settle with 4.3ghz (which I'm excited about)?

Did some online searching and found that I'm good up to 1.5v. I had to raise the vcore to 1.47. It passed the 10 minute test. It's late, so I think I will do the longer test tomorrow. I'm not sure how much more room I have to work with concerning the temps. Anyways, here's the the information so far.


Edited by Andromydous - 7/31/16 at 12:46am
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post #39 of 226
Thread Starter 
Ummmm, is this safe voltage wise?



worriedsmiley.gif

As you can see, I'm fine on temps, but the voltage is right at the line. Actually on idle it's sitting at 1.51v and drops down to the 1.50v on full load. If it's good, then I'd love to run a longer test. If the voltage isn't good then is there anything I can do to bring the voltage down and still run the 4.5ghz? I did change CPU current to 120%. I haven't changed the CPU/NB things at all. I'm still running it at stock 1.187v, but only because I didn't change the freq on it.



Edit: Meant to add that the manual vcore input is 1.496v.
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post #40 of 226
I would expect 4.7-4.9 with 1.5v. You have a terrible chip. 1.5v is said to be the max on air, so if you feel comfortable doing it...... do it. Personally, I wouldn't for that speed.


A couple of years ago I had my 8350 @4.7ghz with 1.46v. It couldn't pass Prime95 to save its life, but it was rock steady in games and converting. Maybe you should go for that. wink.gif
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