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Peltier chilling system - Page 12

post #111 of 167
Yeah I was going to model up a Y splitter on inlet and outlet but it looks like it is flowing so well that it isn't necessary to flow sim it, it will only improve with 2 inlets and outlets.

As for the fins in plenum area, you couldn't just leave a little bit more material in there so the slots are a few mm longer on each side? Limited by end mill size? Or slitting saw needs more room to get right slot depth?
post #112 of 167
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiamG6 View Post

Yeah I was going to model up a Y splitter on inlet and outlet but it looks like it is flowing so well that it isn't necessary to flow sim it, it will only improve with 2 inlets and outlets.

As for the fins in plenum area, you couldn't just leave a little bit more material in there so the slots are a few mm longer on each side? Limited by end mill size? Or slitting saw needs more room to get right slot depth?


No no my logic was just to keep the plenum area large enough to evenly distribute water pressure before forcing it through the channel way. If i bring the slots out more... its likely ill further reduce flow on the outer edges of the slots. The area of the plenum is equal to the size of the inlets, if i reduce that... there's a certain amount of pressure that will certainly be forced through the center... But that was with the single port design. Given two ports solves this... i could definitely give it a shot. Let me try another rev.
post #113 of 167
you can machine the plenum totally into the acrylic top rather than the copper base if you need to keep that. I like the way you have it with the plenum in the copper, I just think it is more important to perfectly cover the TEC with the same slots/fins everywhere. Any hot spots are a problem. only needs to be a few mm each way. but it isn;t going to make or break the block, just slightly improve the even heat transfer and slightly reduce the thermal resistance of the block.
post #114 of 167
@ mrkubanftw

I admire your tenacity sir!

You're making me want to buy my own milling machine, I've already been pricing them, I can hear the wife now when I tell her what I'm considering. rolleyes.gif

I've looked through the entire thread and I wanted to comment on the design of the sandwiched china copper water blocks that the center block was being TEC cold sided from both sides.

That center water block would almost need to be hollow with zero channeling inside for the coolant to flow freely through it with that much cold being applied to it.

That's just my opinion from what I saw pictured, but I do not have any idea what the insides of those China water blocks even look like.

Looks good sir, Carry On! thumb.gif
post #115 of 167
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiamG6 View Post

you can machine the plenum totally into the acrylic top rather than the copper base if you need to keep that. I like the way you have it with the plenum in the copper, I just think it is more important to perfectly cover the TEC with the same slots/fins everywhere. Any hot spots are a problem. only needs to be a few mm each way. but it isn;t going to make or break the block, just slightly improve the even heat transfer and slightly reduce the thermal resistance of the block.

Alrighty, i'll extend the slots to the full 62mm length and perhaps deepen the plenum into the acrylic.


Quote:
Originally Posted by OCAddict View Post

@ mrkubanftw

I admire your tenacity sir!

You're making me want to buy my own milling machine, I've already been pricing them, I can hear the wife now when I tell her what I'm considering. rolleyes.gif

I've looked through the entire thread and I wanted to comment on the design of the sandwiched china copper water blocks that the center block was being TEC cold sided from both sides.

That center water block would almost need to be hollow with zero channeling inside for the coolant to flow freely through it with that much cold being applied to it.

That's just my opinion from what I saw pictured, but I do not have any idea what the insides of those China water blocks even look like.

Looks good sir, Carry On! thumb.gif


Haha thanks man. I'm just striving to be successful here! I have a few goals that are on the edge of realistic so we need to push the envelope here everywhere we can and if that means slight changes to design, i'm fine with that. I'm not sure exactly what the channel is inside the china blocks. I've seen a few different pictures that show different things. I can say though i dont think she's hollowed out. I think at best maybe its a rounded W inside there. But i'm leaning more towards It being a pretty small channeled U based on how it performs. The transfer of cold is extremely slow. With no load it took roughly 30 minutes to drop down to the temps i posted. So yeah, it was easy to abandon those guys haha.


There's actually a pretty cool DIY CNC machine package out there that's arduino controlled. Its something i was considering getting one myself. The things i could get done if i had one at home!! I'll see if i can find a link!
post #116 of 167
The aluminium chinese 40x40 blocks have 0.5mm fins with 1mm spacing (some of them anyway, others have more like 1mm fins with 2mm spacing), the copper ones have a ~6mm U/W channel that snakes through the block. I think the aluminium blocks would actually perform better than the copper ones because of the superior fin structure. The aluminium blocks are machined with channels then the top is vacuum brazed on, the copper ones are solid blocks that get drilled out and plugged.

As for getting coolant to flow through them without freezing OC, why aren't you realizing that sub zero means you need some sort of antifreeze, Propylene Glycol is non toxic, Ethylene Glycol is toxic but it's better than PG. Methanol is the go to for a lot of guys that are substantially below zero but that's quite risky and isn't really necessary for TEC chillers as they just aren't cold enough. Some of mayhem's coolants are perfect as they contain PG or EG or similar, X1 has a freezing point of -15*c if mixed right, XT-1 can go down to -50*c if mixed right. It's far easier to use the appropriate coolant for the temps you want to run than it is to hamstring yourself with a useless water block with terrible thermal resistance. Pick a ratio so that it keeps optimal heat transfer characteristics (ie less X1 or XT-1) but enough that the coolant won't turn into a slush or get too viscous for the pumps.

Foxrena uses a Grizzly mill that was modified with a CNC kit, I think it's probably worth about USD$1500, just a guess there.
Edited by LiamG6 - 8/19/16 at 7:16pm
post #117 of 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiamG6 View Post

As for getting coolant to flow through them without freezing OC, why aren't you realizing that sub zero means you need some sort of antifreeze, Propylene Glycol is non toxic, Ethylene Glycol is toxic but it's better than PG. Methanol is the go to for a lot of guys that are substantially below zero but that's quite risky and isn't really necessary for TEC chillers as they just aren't cold enough. Some of mayhem's coolants are perfect as they contain PG or EG or similar, X1 has a freezing point of -15*c if mixed right, XT-1 can go down to -50*c if mixed right. It's far easier to use the appropriate coolant for the temps you want to run than it is to hamstring yourself with a useless water block with terrible thermal resistance. Pick a ratio so that it keeps optimal heat transfer characteristics (ie less X1 or XT-1) but enough that the coolant won't turn into a slush or get too viscous for the pumps.

I did not say anything what so ever about freezing Liam, I am fully aware some type anti-freeze is required for sub-zero operation, read what I said.
post #118 of 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by OCAddict View Post

That center water block would almost need to be hollow with zero channeling inside for the coolant to flow freely through it with that much cold being applied to it.

So what does that mean then? If the coolant isn't freezing then what would be restricting the flow of coolant if it had channels?
Edited by LiamG6 - 8/20/16 at 4:15am
post #119 of 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiamG6 View Post

So what does that mean then? If the coolant isn't freezing then what would be restricting the flow of coolant if it had channels?

what type of antifreeze is being used?

standard antifreeze, meaning the green stuff, will start to thicken up as temperatures drop below 0C. it is not a restriction in the water loop, but will definitely slow a water loop down.
post #120 of 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by LiamG6 View Post

So what does that mean then? If the coolant isn't freezing then what would be restricting the flow of coolant if it had channels?

Tool explained it very well and that is what I was referring to.
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