Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › [DIY] Building my Own Case: Aluminum? Or Aluminium?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[DIY] Building my Own Case: Aluminum? Or Aluminium?

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
Build Postponed for financial reasons - but not forgotten! I will return to this someday. (Click to show)
June 29, 2016

Introduction: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Hi guys, so I'm not new to overclock.net, but this is my first real thread so please bear with me.
This thread is where I would like to discuss the concept and design of this build. I am currently in the planning phase and I want to post some of my ideas. Someday, wallet permitting, I'd like to build this design by hand. I have the skills, but the time and tools are hard to come-by for me. I'm not very good with autocad, but I'll try my best and hopefully my renders aren't too awful. I'm using a free version of cad as the full version is a little over-complicated for what I'm doing. I've built a case before. It was made of plexiglas and duct tape. While very functional with air cooling and great temps (worked like a wind tunnel), it wasn't the highest quality looking thing (but still charming!). So this next build I wanna get a little more serious (while keeping my wallet's safety in mind).
Well, that's the background, now down to business...
It's gotta have aluminum. I love the feel, the look, it just works for me. I already have a lot of the components. Most of which are in use in my current (starforge) build, or I have purchased from friends through discounts or something like that. Here are the components: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Motherboard: MSI Z170 Titanium Edition (Skylake)
I think this will look great with bare aluminum. The aesthetic of this build will revolve mostly around this board. Mostly silver/gray (grey?), with black accents, and mostly red lighting.

CPU: i7-6700k
The big bad wolf of skylake. Just waiting for another sale.

GPU: EVGA 980ti classy wink.gif
I wanna put it underwater. More on that soon. This will involve a pci extension ribbon cable.

RAM: Geil SuperLuce DDR4-3000 (black with red leds)
Got this for a big discount and it works with my theme.

PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 PS
Once again, big discount. Gets the job done. EVGA has been good to me so far.

Boot Drive: 120 GB kingston v300 SSD
It works and its pretty quick. Nice and cheap little ssd.

Storage Drive: 1 TB Western Digital HDD
Works.

Cooling: Here is where things get tricky...
I currently have a Swiftech h220-X cooling my CPU. I've had it for a year and it has been great. I've been told the pump is strong enough to expand the loop to include another rad and a gpu block, but not much more. Which is great because I want to do just that. I'm trying to decide if I want to get a full block for the GPU or a universal so that it will be cheaper/easier to upgrade in the future. The 980ti classy is nice because it has a cooling plate on the whole card minus the gpu itself, so as long as I have a fan on it the secondary components on the pcb should stay cool. I would love some input from people that have made this decision before. I'm leaning towards soft tubing as this is my first custom loop, though I may re-do it with hard tubing later.

And now... The Case: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Aluminum, yeah, so what I was thinking is using 80-20 for the frame. It's easy to work with and easily modifiable if need be in the future. If I need to move a rad an inch higher or something, I can do that with 80-20 without having to drill more holes or (god forbid) redesign the whole case. I think 25 x 25 mm will be more than sturdy enough. This also saves me some fabrication. I do have access to a metal shop, but I am limited by my skills as I am still a novice and I want to do as much of this on my own as I can.

Very rough design so far (lacks 80-20 and proper dimensions, but has core component locations and airflow design):


Here we have the basic shape/design from the front view. I've turned off the front and side panels. Normally the long flat pieces in the front are connected to the top perpendicular pieces. I want clear plexiglass for most of the front and maybe tinted plexi on the sides. Mobo at a 45 degree tilt, gpu on the bottom (black rectangle), both facing the front of the case. Red blocks at bottom are intake fans. In the back we have the swiftech h220x (2x120mm rad with pump/res combined, thus why it is just a big black block for now) on the bottom, and just above it is a 360 rad with some fans (red). I'm aware things may not be to scale, but at this stage I'm just doing rough designs and over-estimating sizes. Also, you now see why I will be using a pci extension cable. I've done some research and it seems like there are shielded cables that will do the job without losing performance.
The idea for the intake fans is that they pull fresh air in to cool the graphics card, then flows up (trapped by plexiglas front) and over the motherboard (perhaps some cooling there just from air flow) and out the top/back of the case.


Here we have the back view. I have turned off the back and side panels for this view. You can still see the 360 rad/fans and the h220x to the left. On the right we have the PSU, which won't lean directly on the mobo/gpu tray, as it will have a support/mount holding it to the base plate. There will be a cutout in the back plate for the psu cable, on/off switch access, and exhaust. On top you can see the I/O cutout for the mobo. I want to put the hard drives in the back too, though I may stick the ssd in the front somewhere, but that is an easy change. Idea for air flow in the back chamber is the 360 rad intakes air, and the h220x and psu both exhaust. Lots of fans, I know, I want lots of fans at low rpm for low noise. And of course, dust filters on all the things.

Things I need to buy: case materials, the 360 rad, the gpu block, some fittings/tubing, and the cpu.


June 30, 2016

New Renders with 80/20 and partial plexi: Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Plexiglas! I got lazy on the upper-half of the side panels and didn't want to do that weird shape.


Both back and side panels removed in this image. I moved the components in the back around. The PSU looked like the various cables coming out of the back of it would be space limited by the motherboard tray. I think I will put the hard drives on top of the PSU, which will be reinforced if weight is an issue (yay 80-20!). Air flow pretty much works the same.


A side image, as the others don't give a good idea of spacing.


UPDATE: July 5, 2016

I recently found out that my Swiftech H220-X will require a special adapter to convert to normal G1/4 fittings. This isn't a problem right now, as they are cheap and available right now. But I don't know how long that will be the case. And if it breaks or leaks in a few years, then replacing it could be impossible. As such it doesn't make sense to design the case around the H220-X's bulky design. As such, I think I will be going with an alternate solution. I've been considering the Predator 360 from EK simply for simplicity. Includes pump/res/fans and comes with fittings in a non-bulky form factor that won't take as much planning around. Sounds like a win to me.

I might still add a 240mm rad to the mix, but first I want to try a Quick-Disconnect setup with the 360 rad/pump, cpu block, and gpu block with pre-fill. If the 360 rad seems sufficient then I may not have to purchase an additional rad (at least not immediately), and it will save me some time. I do want to eventually do hard tubing, but I was planning to stick with soft tubes at first, just to make sure everything worked for a test-period. If I can skip the extra rad I can redesign the "plumbing" and use that money to do the hard tubing sooner.

Question: Do you think it would be more economical to get the 360 predator? Or get my own 360 rad, pump, fans, and fittings? (My research indicates the predator option, but I'm open to suggestions.)

Here are some more renders, this time WITH TUBING! Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




This is just an outline of the tubing path. I know they don't line up with the rads quite 100%, and I will adjust accordingly (bends/fittings) when the time comes to be more accurate (this is a rough draft). Also, I was too lazy to do bends in the tubes in a FreeCAD rough draft, sorry about the corners/joints.
Sorry to those who were looking forward to it (I know I was).
Edited by chipsterx - 2/27/17 at 4:16pm
Starforge
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4690 MSI Z97S Krait Edition EVGA 980 ti Classified G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... Kingston V300 2.5" 120GB SATA III (SSD) Samsung DVD writer Swiftech H220x 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair AF-120 Quiet Edition x3 Windows 8.1 Pro - 64 bit 40" Crossover 404k 4k monitor Corsair Vengeance K70 brown switch with red led... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA SuperNova 1000 PS NZXT Phantom 410 Black Razer Taipan White Anker Black mouse pad 
AudioOther
Logitech THX Z-5300e 280 Watts RMS 5.1 Speaker NZXT HUE 
  hide details  
Reply
Starforge
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4690 MSI Z97S Krait Edition EVGA 980 ti Classified G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... Kingston V300 2.5" 120GB SATA III (SSD) Samsung DVD writer Swiftech H220x 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair AF-120 Quiet Edition x3 Windows 8.1 Pro - 64 bit 40" Crossover 404k 4k monitor Corsair Vengeance K70 brown switch with red led... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA SuperNova 1000 PS NZXT Phantom 410 Black Razer Taipan White Anker Black mouse pad 
AudioOther
Logitech THX Z-5300e 280 Watts RMS 5.1 Speaker NZXT HUE 
  hide details  
Reply
post #2 of 4
Interesting idea with MoBo and GPU placement. However, I don't quite understand some things:
Will your GPU face "chip to the back", or "chip to the front"? If the latter is the case, then you'll have to either twist your riser by 180 or have it go beneath the GPU (or it's plate).
As a suggestion: try to add GPU bracket into the build, it can really help with ease of installation.

Best of luck with your custom! thumb.gif
post #3 of 4
+1 for using slotted extrusions. thumb.gif
post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taugeshtu View Post

Interesting idea with MoBo and GPU placement. However, I don't quite understand some things:
Will your GPU face "chip to the back", or "chip to the front"? If the latter is the case, then you'll have to either twist your riser by 180 or have it go beneath the GPU (or it's plate).
As a suggestion: try to add GPU bracket into the build, it can really help with ease of installation.

Ah, yes that could be confusing about the gpu position. So i was thinking I'd just use the card's backplate to mount it to the 'tray' using plastic washers and the proper precautions of course. This way the chip would be facing forward and the fans below it would be blowing up on the heatspreader to cool the other components. I am taking the wall-mounted pc builders' approach and using one of these PCIe shielded extender cables:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/8KC3-0726-0500/3M12026-ND/3641403
My plan at the moment is to run it from the 1st pci connector, up and out a slit in the io plate, then down along the backside of the motherboard tray and through a slit in the bottom of the motherboard tray where it will then plug into the gpu.
Starforge
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4690 MSI Z97S Krait Edition EVGA 980 ti Classified G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... Kingston V300 2.5" 120GB SATA III (SSD) Samsung DVD writer Swiftech H220x 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair AF-120 Quiet Edition x3 Windows 8.1 Pro - 64 bit 40" Crossover 404k 4k monitor Corsair Vengeance K70 brown switch with red led... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA SuperNova 1000 PS NZXT Phantom 410 Black Razer Taipan White Anker Black mouse pad 
AudioOther
Logitech THX Z-5300e 280 Watts RMS 5.1 Speaker NZXT HUE 
  hide details  
Reply
Starforge
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-4690 MSI Z97S Krait Edition EVGA 980 ti Classified G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... 
RAMHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... Kingston V300 2.5" 120GB SATA III (SSD) Samsung DVD writer Swiftech H220x 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair AF-120 Quiet Edition x3 Windows 8.1 Pro - 64 bit 40" Crossover 404k 4k monitor Corsair Vengeance K70 brown switch with red led... 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
EVGA SuperNova 1000 PS NZXT Phantom 410 Black Razer Taipan White Anker Black mouse pad 
AudioOther
Logitech THX Z-5300e 280 Watts RMS 5.1 Speaker NZXT HUE 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Case Mods
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › [DIY] Building my Own Case: Aluminum? Or Aluminium?