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Polaris Bios Editing ( RX5xx / RX4xx ) - Page 123

post #1221 of 3375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Loladinas View Post

Performance increase seems to stall after a certain number of memory errors starts to pop up.

I understand that but what I was asking about was a bit different.
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post #1222 of 3375
@mtrai

Sup bro, I here you have errors and what not? Have you changed the voltage of the value "65288"? If not your on stock volts... If So, it doesn't always want to go to that voltage. Requires you to click "RESET" in Sapphire TRIXX, to yield the higher voltage/ tdp increase...

That's what makes the Polaris Family a real pain to bios program because it ignores pretty much all power limit and voltage specifications... Until you click "RESET" in TRIXX... Might test it, open GPU-Z and run a Render Test or HWInfo and see without touching anything after a fresh bios flash if the voltage goes to what you set it too...

I would highly recommend down-clocking the ram to 192GB/s, and undervolt VDDCI to 900mv from 1000mv (10-30C VRM Reduction) and then see if you can get the beast to screech out to 1,563Mhz ie The Round 50.016 GPixel/s & 225.072GTexel/s... Only there @ 1,563Mhz Stable will the RX 480 Polaris 10 Shine Through and talk on the 390X among others. It surpasses the 390X Giga Texel Output @ 1,563Mhz...

It's all in the math to achieve 1,563Mhz. We sit and scratch our heads attempting to pull 1,563Mhz and just can't do it, or so we believe. Basically take your stock 65288 value and stock core clock or possibly boost.

First define base voltage & boost voltage via GPU-Z "Max" on Stock values...

I'm guessing 1150mv @ 1266mhz or what 1175mv @ 1306mhz? We get two values, let's focus on base to replace 65288.

1266mhz divided by 1150mv which is basically the voltage is .90 of the clock... So basically a -10% value.
If we belive 1306mhz to work at 1175mv then we take 1306mhz Multiplied by .90 = 1175.4mv which is correct.

So let's move swiftly right on up to 1,563Mhz... Simply 1,563Mhz Multiplied by .90 = 1406.7mv... This is the value to provide actual true power house performance gains and throughput among actually stability. Any less is likely unstable.

Now we rely on VRM Pad Quality*** and Core Thermal Paste thickness of layer and coverage among how even the spread is edge-to-edge about 1/1000th of a millimeter thick is ideal... Even thinner can do even less temps... The least amount as possible is ideal...

If the Core VRM/ Memory VRM Pad's are dark grey then they are of decent quality... If they are white or blue or some such, not likely to clock well and will surely burn up in no time...

I find that maybe no need to purchase expensive Fujipoly... It appears Ceramic Clay or Ceramic Puddy is highly thermal conductive and very cheap... roll into balls and place balls on top of all vrm... then place cooler on and smoosh together... Then flip card over and tighten VRM screws first... big time temp drops on vrm... could be used on vram as well... Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 (Ceramic Thermal Paste) is the Best there is around and spreads gorgeously across the core diode by finger... Try it, buy a bunch of the big 25g syringes they are like 7 bucks bros.

I use this stuff on everything and its just amazing... you could use on literally anything.. non electrical conductive.. use tootch brush to clean off any surface... Tooth brush works if u wanna use it on the VRM... But the Ceramic Puddy works better...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Silver-Ceramique-2-Tri-Linear-Ceramic-Thermal-Compound-25-g-gram-syringe-/191536297259?hash=item2c9873f52b:g:fHoAAOSw-KFXcq6s

http://global.kyocera.com/fcworld/charact/heat/thermalcond.html

You can go to local Crafts store, pick up tiny thing of ceramic unscented pure puddy or clay... roll into little balls for each individual core/ memory vrm... apply smoosh.. tighten..

http://global.kyocera.com/fcworld/charact/heat/thermalcond.html
Edited by chris89 - 1/25/17 at 12:49pm
post #1223 of 3375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lard View Post

gupsterg showed how to edit Vmax in the VoltageObjectInfo table.
I did this mod on my reference RX480 BIOS, and it works with WattTool.
But you have to set a limit, otherwise the voltage can spike over 1.5V, even if you only apply like 1.2V!

Thanks, thats very information!

I did try using Trixx though and so far it has been working great (No Idea why MSI afterburner would cause me huge problems) , it seems to sometimes spike higher then I would expect (At +35mV it will on occasion go up to like 1.23V.) But this seems ok regardless. I will probably stick to this "easy solution".

Im still a bit curious about the vram voltages though, I've definitely been getting better memory overclocks from upping it to 1.1V (At stock Core clocks I can now get up to some +250 mhz using the 1750 timings, but at 1400 core clock it gets capped to like 100 mhz though, gets unstable way before I get any memory errors and temperatures don't seem to matter.) . But what is considered "safe" voltages?
Im thinking the GDDR5 should be capable to withstand quite high voltages, but the temperatures might become dangerous?
Edited by nativenigerians - 1/25/17 at 12:55pm
post #1224 of 3375
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris89 View Post

@mtrai

Sup bro, I here you have errors and what not? Have you changed the voltage of the value "65288"? If not your on stock volts... If So, it doesn't always want to go to that voltage. Requires you to click "RESET" in Sapphire TRIXX, to yield the higher voltage/ tdp increase...

That's what makes the Polaris Family a real pain to bios program because it ignores pretty much all power limit and voltage specifications... Until you click "RESET" in TRIXX... Might test it, open GPU-Z and run a Render Test or HWInfo and see without touching anything after a fresh bios flash if the voltage goes to what you set it too...

I would highly recommend down-clocking the ram to 192GB/s, and undervolt VDDCI to 900mv from 1000mv (10-30C VRM Reduction) and then see if you can get the beast to screech out to 1,563Mhz ie The Round 50.016 GPixel/s & 225.072GTexel/s... Only there @ 1,563Mhz Stable will the RX 480 Polaris 10 Shine Through and talk on the 390X among others. It surpasses the 390X Giga Texel Output @ 1,563Mhz...

It's all in the math to achieve 1,563Mhz. We sit and scratch our heads attempting to pull 1,563Mhz and just can't do it, or so we believe. Basically take your stock 65288 value and stock core clock or possibly boost.

First define base voltage & boost voltage via GPU-Z "Max" on Stock values...

I'm guessing 1150mv @ 1266mhz or what 1175mv @ 1306mhz? We get two values, let's focus on base to replace 65288.

1266mhz divided by 1150mv which is basically the voltage is .90 of the clock... So basically a -10% value.
If we belive 1306mhz to work at 1175mv then we take 1306mhz Multiplied by .90 = 1175.4mv which is correct.

So let's move swiftly right on up to 1,563Mhz... Simply 1,563Mhz Multiplied by .90 = 1406.7mv... This is the value to provide actual true power house performance gains and throughput among actually stability. Any less is likely unstable.

Now we rely on VRM Pad Quality*** and Core Thermal Paste thickness of layer and coverage among how even the spread is edge-to-edge about 1/1000th of a millimeter thick is ideal... Even thinner can do even less temps... The least amount as possible is ideal...

If the Core VRM/ Memory VRM Pad's are dark grey then they are of decent quality... If they are white or blue or some such, not likely to clock well and will surely burn up in no time...

I find that maybe no need to purchase expensive Fujipoly... It appears Ceramic Clay or Ceramic Puddy is highly thermal conductive and very cheap... roll into balls and place balls on top of all vrm... then place cooler on and smoosh together... Then flip card over and tighten VRM screws first... big time temp drops on vrm... could be used on vram as well... Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 (Ceramic Thermal Paste) is the Best there is around and spreads gorgeously across the core diode by finger... Try it, buy a bunch of the big 25g syringes they are like 7 bucks bros.

I use this stuff on everything and its just amazing... you could use on literally anything.. non electrical conductive.. use tootch brush to clean off any surface... Tooth brush works if u wanna use it on the VRM... But the Ceramic Puddy works better...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Silver-Ceramique-2-Tri-Linear-Ceramic-Thermal-Compound-25-g-gram-syringe-/191536297259?hash=item2c9873f52b:g:fHoAAOSw-KFXcq6s

WOW I am not sure even how to respond...temps are not issue, and further on GPU dies it is not a good idea to use conductive thermal paste as it can spread. I could not even follow half of what you stated other then it was about thermal pastes.

Anyhow this is what I am using in my custom bios for 1400/2150 note I am back to using the 2000 mem strap at 2000. Pushing 1.3 volts.I am using Watttool to for the 1450/2000 overclock while my bios is set to 1400/2150 as it causes no vram memory errors as soon as windows loads.

And please show me why you recommend downlocking the memory bandwidth to 192 and show me how that improves performance...the RX 480 is memory bandwidth limited at stock already

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post #1225 of 3375
Hahaha. I had stated Ceramic is not "Electically Conductive" but it is "Thermally Coductive" and very much so at that... No risk of frying anything, and transferring heat very effectively... I hope that makes sense?

The screenshot didn't really give any information... Would need HWInfo Screenshot after a good while of maximum gaming load max fps at max resolution to get the realistic numbers.

1,563mhz should not be difficult to achieve at all. The 1406mv is not really that much, my 390X for true stability about 1433mv @ 1250mhz but more like with under volted vddci and lower memory clocks can do 1400mv @ 1250mhz.

Though if you do not use reference cooling plate, your card can never achieve this number. You need reference dense cooling plate to keep stable vrm under the big clocks.

I just couldn't sit back knowing my RX 480 is getting it's rear end handed to it on a plate by the GTX 980, 1060, 1070, among others.

RX 480 at de-limited power 57599 & 1563mhz should talk on the best of the best.
Edited by chris89 - 1/25/17 at 1:00pm
post #1226 of 3375
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris89 View Post

Hahaha. I had stated Ceramic is not "Electically Conductive" but it is "Thermally Coductive" and very much so at that... No risk of frying anything, and transferring heat very effectively... I hope that makes sense?

The screenshot didn't really give any information... Would need HWInfo Screenshot after a good while of maximum gaming load max fps at max resolution to get the realistic numbers.

1,563mhz should not be difficult to achieve at all. The 1406mv is not really that much, my 390X for true stability about 1433mv @ 1250mhz but more like with under volted vddci and lower memory clocks can do 1400mv @ 1250mhz.

Though if you do not use reference cooling plate, your card can never achieve this number. You need reference dense cooling plate to keep stable vrm under the big clocks.

I just couldn't sit back knowing my RX 480 is getting it's rear end handed to it on a plate by the GTX 980, 1060, 1070, among others.

RX 480 at de-limited power 57599 & 1563mhz should talk on the best of the best.

What I was getting at is you went off explaining about thermal paste in response to quote me. Thermals is not the issue. thumb.gif My old R9 290 and 390 I would push more volts though but as I have seen brute forceing a RX 480 is not the best way to overclock. These GPUs need finesse not brute force. You cannot compare the Hawaii chip GPUs to the RX 480 as they do not work the same way.

If you check my previous posts on my RX 480 you will see what I am getting at as others confirmed...performance is not linear as it should be in the RX 480. I have only had this RX 480 since early December and only started to serious overclock a few days ago. MY previous gpus were all hawaii based which really is a different beast. What I thought I knew in overclocking gpus simply does not apply at the finer part, the basic ideas are the same but the the Polaris chips require finesse.

/edit what I am trying to say unlike the hawaii chip where unneeded voltage just heat on the polaris gpu cores too much voltage not only causes heat but also degrades performance. Also as a few have thought and point out performance seem limited once you reach certain overlcocks...they have stated various opinions on why, not my issue but why they are starting seems to have some merit. IE me going from 2150 to 2200 memory yields gains but going from 2200 to 2250 memory speed does not. With being stable and no gpu memory errors.

Now I have an different issue with gpu memory errors and not gotten around to reporting it since I put an additional GPU from a different GCN generation or my addition monitors.
Edited by mtrai - 1/25/17 at 1:28pm
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post #1227 of 3375
@mtrai

Thanks man. Yeah on this "unneeded voltage just heat on the polaris gpu cores too much voltage not only causes heat but also degrades performance"...

I too had that exact same issue with the Non-Reference Cards... They just cannot do what the reference can do... That VRM plate allows basically all of the potential the gpu can do... It can handle the heat of as fast as the card can run...

Here is my XFX Polaris 11 RX 460 4GB... I tend to put too much information and kind of update as issues come along, since progress means lots of trial and error. When I say a lot, I mean a-lot. biggrin.gif

Polaris isn't like the 390X, so 57599 doesn't work in all fields. The below mods now are actually showing major improvements @ 2560x1440 & 3840x2160. At first it wasn't working, found out only 1/4 of the diode was contacting... Had to use extra paste but all is fine now.

As for the RX series, the VRM have a much tighter window of opportunity unlike 390X. The 390X has more performance than all of the components available at the time it was made... Meaning if they re-made the 390X with better tech in the future it would yield more performance. Hints why 57599 works on the 390X.

For the RX Series, I find I had to only change the MAX Limit value and leave TDP Limit and TDC at stock values. I just set Max Limit to 100 watts and now it's running a lot better.

So for the RX 480, you might try 57599 as max and leave all others stock as for TDP Limit & TDC so you won't throttle but be within a stable tolerance.


Edited by chris89 - 1/26/17 at 3:44am
post #1228 of 3375
Have someone trying mounting 2 120mm case fans on non-reference rx480? I'm thinking about trying it, seems like it can lower the temps as well as noise.

edit. Totally not worth it for the temps, but noise is a lot better with quiet 1000 rpm fans.
Edited by datspike - 1/27/17 at 9:30am
post #1229 of 3375
If you up the memory voltage you also force that as the minimum voltage for vcore at dxva and up speeds since memory goes to 3d speeds past the 2d clocks. Since our cards like to up clock even in 2d sometimes you see a lot more power use even on desktop.

Examples:
Stock
Get to step 1 iirc is 650 at 0.9v, it will run 1.0v because memory uses that at 2000mhz.

Lower vmem, 0.925 in my bios:
Step 1 you see 650 at 0.925v, less power use

Higher vmem, 1.1v
650 clocks will make vcore 1.1v, much more power use.

It stinks and that's why radeon uses more multi Mon power than geforce... This locking of vcore minimum to memory controller voltage
post #1230 of 3375
Hi, do you guy's understand the fan stuff on sensitivity and what not? I set my max temps to 88C, since I did not want it to burn out on stock settings of 105 to 109 degrees celsius. If anyone didn't know the 8 symbol in math is the infinity sign, dual infinity signs means it will last... how long? infinitely. By default Polaris cards if allowed to hit default temps about 3-7 years.

Even when min fan speed is 20%, it stays at 0% until it hits 58-60C and goes straight to 100%... Completely ignoring bios settings... I'd like 20% min and a gradual increase to keep it quiet at 60C... unless vrm and hot spots hit 88C and need 100% fan... Since once it goes to 100% fan and you take the load off... It hangs at 100% and gradually comes down after 10 minutes... I felt the VRM when the fan was "Coming Down from 100%" and the card was cold... vrm was not hot the whole card was cold... So there's a clear issue here.


Edited by chris89 - 1/27/17 at 6:13pm
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