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Raijintek Triton leakage. Any way to stop it? [Solved] - Page 3

post #21 of 26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordesky1 View Post

last i herd you are aloud to top it off when it needs it, Mine got a big crack on it and leaked on my saber tooth mb, which lucky i was using distilled water mostly but it did have dye in it.. But no damage was done think it was leaking for a day or more even tho it stained were it leak... I contacted them and told them and all they ask is a pic of it and had a new block and fluid sent to me in couple days.


Even tho its out of warranty they still might honor it because these have cracking issues. i had mine for about 9month...


EDIT Pretty sure they have a 2year warrenty


Worth a try because they don't ask for anything back so you can try and fix the leaking one.

Aha oke, that would surely be great. I will contact Raijintek then.
Thanks, I didn't know they had known issues.
This brings me to two options. I'm much more confident now that I won't need to sacrifice the esthetic of my pc
Edited by Nerdquake - 7/1/16 at 8:30am
    
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post #22 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

What about just using a silicone caulk? That might be easier than mixing up epoxy.

EDIT: Bah, I just saw that this was already mentioned. I would try the silicone first, must easier to work with than epoxy.

Agreed, but epoxy will just lock it up. Silicone would be nice too, could always just pull it out if it didn't catch the first time.
post #23 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

DO NOT USE SILICONE! Once cured, nothing will stick to the silicone, including silicone, and it is difficult to remove. Epoxies are too permanent and may not seal all that well. There are better caulks available. If a leak is due to a crack in plastic, a solvent cement that is allowed to run into the crack through capillary action will seal it up. However, the cracked part must be disassembled, cleaned, and dried, especially inside the crack, or the cement will not properly penetrate.

Understood, but why would OP need to worry about anything sticking to the silicone or ever removing it?

If a leak should fail to seal completely on the first attempt, a new leak develops through the silicone (the stuff isn't perfect), or the part fails elsewhere and needs replacing. I used to make and keep aquariums and, if an aquarium I made or bought ever developed a leak, I found out (the hard way, btw) the only way to reseal it was to scrape off every bit of silicone from the inside of entire aquarium (a tedious process even though the surfaces were easily accessible) and run a new bead in all the corners. Removing silicone from around and inside a crack would be pretty much impossible.
     
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post #24 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

DO NOT USE SILICONE! Once cured, nothing will stick to the silicone, including silicone, and it is difficult to remove. Epoxies are too permanent and may not seal all that well. There are better caulks available. If a leak is due to a crack in plastic, a solvent cement that is allowed to run into the crack through capillary action will seal it up. However, the cracked part must be disassembled, cleaned, and dried, especially inside the crack, or the cement will not properly penetrate.

Thanks for the heads up.
In my case disassembling would mean breaking the resevoirblock, leaving me with more to seal than I first needed to.
As far as resticking I hope to fix it so it doesn't need to be redone in the future (same as the question above, difficulty quoting on mobile). Making the cooler last for atleast another year.
    
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post #25 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lady Fitzgerald View Post

If a leak should fail to seal completely on the first attempt, a new leak develops through the silicone (the stuff isn't perfect), or the part fails elsewhere and needs replacing. I used to make and keep aquariums and, if an aquarium I made or bought ever developed a leak, I found out (the hard way, btw) the only way to reseal it was to scrape off every bit of silicone from the inside of entire aquarium (a tedious process even though the surfaces were easily accessible) and run a new bead in all the corners. Removing silicone from around and inside a crack would be pretty much impossible.

Hmm, oke. Thanks
This rules out: me fixing a surface leak with silicone. I could still try silicone/epoxy if the leak is located where I think it is: In a small compartiment leading to the pump and LED. I could fill that whole compartiment, although it is small, it would still result in a pretty thick layer.
I haven't analysed the watercooler thouroughlu yet, I'll do that when I'm home again.
Edited by Nerdquake - 7/1/16 at 9:13am
    
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post #26 of 26
I would just throw it away and use something else.

A leak may cause expensive damage and isn't worth the risk.
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