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My take on the ultimate (scratch build) lan case: the BUTLER P-47 - Page 3

post #21 of 63
Had the jigsaw tear up one of my pieces but I regrouped and went at it the hard way so I feel your pain.

You can build with very limited tools but its a pain. I know. I did it.

Are you using mspaint for the 100 percent scaling? Usually comes out really close for me. Not without some risk. I usually print a black and white on crappy pqper to test fit.

Oh, and yes sanding sucks the big one.
post #22 of 63
Thread Starter 
After some experimentation I found it wasn't my software, but the printer I was using for 11x17 sheets. A different printer was much closer (luckly was printing at work where there are a plethora of printers to choose from). You start to really notice when you're doing large templates and they're 3/32 of an inch short/long.
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post #23 of 63
Thread Starter 
Oh, and another big lesson: don't use a metal grinding/cutoff blade for aluminum. It just melts and makes a huge mess of your workpiece (see picture). Use a blade with a lot of teeth, and a slow feed--you need chip formation not just smearing.

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post #24 of 63
Yeah I had the same happen with stainless. Used a diamond blade and it went much better.
post #25 of 63
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ergosum View Post

Oh, and another big lesson: don't use a metal grinding/cutoff blade for aluminum. It just melts and makes a huge mess of your workpiece (see picture). Use a blade with a lot of teeth, and a slow feed--you need chip formation not just smearing.


I use a blade made specifically for cutting aluminum (Triple Chip Grind). Although, a good carbide blade works almost as well. thumb.gif
post #26 of 63
Thread Starter 
Yes, I'm using a general purpose carbide blade in my chop saw (miter saw) and it's working great (cutting very carefully and slowly). Starting out I did a cut too fast and it ripped a chunk of aluminum out of the tubing and bounced it off my face--have been very careful since. I was glad I was wearing safety goggles.
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post #27 of 63
Thread Starter 
Top panel. Plastic aluminum protective coating has not yet been removed and I need to finish the power supply cutout.



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CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
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post #28 of 63
Thread Starter 
As a side note, I used Aluminum 5052 (local supplier didn't have 3003) for the front panel; it did not crack while bending. 6000 series can have problems with cracking if the bend radius is tight.
BUTLER P-47
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Samsung 850 EVO  Aquacomputer Aqualis D5 100 ml, G1/4 Magicool 240 G2 Slim Radiator Phobya CPU-Cooler UC-1 Extreme Intel 775,115X,1... 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
XSPC FLX Clear 7/16" ID 5/8" OD (15.9 / 11.1mm)... 4 x Cooler Master JetFlo 120 Windows 10 Home (x64) Acer GN246HL Bbid 24-Inch 3D Gaming Display (14... 
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BUTLER P-47
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Intel Skylake 6600K ASRock Z170M Extreme4 ASUS GeForce GTX 1070 STRIX Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 32... 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 850 EVO  Aquacomputer Aqualis D5 100 ml, G1/4 Magicool 240 G2 Slim Radiator Phobya CPU-Cooler UC-1 Extreme Intel 775,115X,1... 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
XSPC FLX Clear 7/16" ID 5/8" OD (15.9 / 11.1mm)... 4 x Cooler Master JetFlo 120 Windows 10 Home (x64) Acer GN246HL Bbid 24-Inch 3D Gaming Display (14... 
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post #29 of 63
She is coming together nicely.
post #30 of 63
Will that handle support all the weight? How did you make that calculation? Is there a brace that it goes through to tie the whole case framework together that I can not see? Just curious.
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