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i5 2500k can't even surpass 4.1

post #1 of 102
Thread Starter 
hello guys,
i been trying for few days to OC my pc after googling in different forums and trying different settings but i am not able to surpass 41 multiplier.
below are my settings which i took from this guide.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1012874/the-official-asus-p8p67-p8z68-p8z68-gen3-series-owners-club

Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 41
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: 2133
DRAM Timing Control: 9-9-9-24-1
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
Long Duration Power Limit: Auto
Long Duration Maintained: Auto
Short Duration Power Limit: Auto
Additional Turbo Voltage: Auto
Primary Plane Current Limit: Auto



Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.010V
DRAM Voltage: 1.6
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled

Advanced\ CPU Configuration >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor: Enabled
Active Processor Cores: All
Limit CPUID Maximum: Disabled
Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
Intel Virtualization Technology: Disabled
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled
CPU C1E: Enabled
CPU C3 Report: Disabled
CPU C6 Report: Disabled



but the moment i put 42 in multipliers i get BSOD.won't even pass windows 10 logo.and i must say that even when i have set 41 multipliers even then min temp is around 45C and if i try prime95 within 5-10 mins temp raises to 80C.and if i keep the test for 30 mins temp stays between 80C-87C.i know its high so i hope someone here can help me.
post #2 of 102
You need to watch those temps, definitely too high. What are you using for a CPU cooler? Also, when at 4.1GHz, what is the voltage actually going into the chip? You can use CPU-Z to read the voltage.

Personally I find it easier to work with manual voltage at first to get a feel for what a certain clock speed it needed, rather than being a little more of a guessing game with offset voltage. I don't think you would need more than about 1.25V for 4.2GHz.
post #3 of 102
Thread Starter 
thx for replying so quick.
CPU-z shows 1.29v
Cpu cooler = Coolermaster 212
i even tried different settings for few days..means doing manual settings .and lowering voltage to 1.2 but no success.

do you think rest of settings fine?
this is ram i have
http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-2133c10d-16gxm
post #4 of 102
I would use ram at 1600mhz until you find a stable overclock your chip might have a weak ipc. Increase your power durations to ensure you can get enough power to cpu. Rest of setting appear ok. After you test and find its stable than go back and adjust ram
post #5 of 102
My i5-2500K came with a very high VID when trying to reach 4.3 GHz on auto voltage so be careful. I'm talking like 1.4V on the CPU voltage which luckily I adjusted so that the motherboard feeds the CPU voltage that I want it to input to the CPU.

Use HWinfo / HWmonitor64 to monitor CPU voltages. VID doesn't matter as that's the requested CPU voltage the CPU asks for and depending on your motherboard settings you can set it to ignore that and instead add a offset onto that VID or set a manual CPU Voltage that you want the CPU to get.

RealTemp is also good for CPU temperature monitoring as it always updates in real time even on stress test load on the CPU.

Mine didn't overclock well as well 4.3 @ 1.3V.

Don't use offset voltage yet, use that last. Try using a manual CPU voltage first as it's better for finding the required amount of CPU voltage to be stable during a stress test for your desired overclock. Maybe 4.2/4.3/4.4/4.5 GHz at 1.35v?
Edited by benjamen50 - 7/10/16 at 6:43am
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post #6 of 102

Hang on, before you do anything else iam1simpleguy, I have one question for you:

 

Did you fill in the spaces between the heatpipes with your Thermal Interface Material as shown in this article? http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62&limit=1&limitstart=5

 

If not, then you need to stop and do that before you do anything else because that would be why your temps are way too high. Your clock is only 4.1 GHz and your voltage is only 1.29V, so your temps should be in the 50s.

 

You can a try using a higher fan speed in your Hyper 212, but with your temps, your fan would have to be pretty much not even moving to get the temps that high. So, I'm pretty sure the culprit is your thermal paste application. It's an extremely common mistake.

 

Another cause for high temps is, keeping the computer in a desk hole (which makes the case fans recycle the warm exhaust air back into the case).

 

And finally, it's not really optimal to use an Offset Voltage when you are in the middle of finding stable settings. I recommend switching to Manual Mode and then entering like say maybe 1.30V and then go from there. I mean, just find a setting in the UEFI that results in at least 1.304V in CPU-Z while running Prime95. In order to see what your voltage is, you only need to run Prime95 for a few seconds. This isn't a stability test, it's just a way to guarantee that you're seeing your actual voltage for the most demanding loads. We can deal with a stability test later. Right now, we need to lower those temps and we also need a MUCH easier way to handle the voltage!

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post #7 of 102
I've been using a Asus p8p67 Evo for 5 years now with a 2500k so maybe I can help.
Most of your settings look good to me but there's a couple things I would change.

Load-Line Calibration from Ultra High to High. In a nutshell this applies more voltage
under load for better stability, but the voltage will spike higher than the VID when coming
off load. You can't see this value because it happens so fast.
For a more in depth explanation watch this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XGhpKHWYAg

CPU Spread Spectrum to disabled. This varies the BLCK to reduce emi but it can cause instability when overclocking.

You might also want to lower the CPU Current Capability from 140% down to 120%, that's what I use and my cpu never throttles.
post #8 of 102

No, he's wrong about what the VID is:

 

http://www.overclock.net/t/665362/vid-voltage-identification-explained

 

This article may be old, but it's still just as relevant for today's CPUs and motherboards as it was back when he wrote it. VID is VID. What it is hasn't changed. In a nutshell, it is NOT a voltage that is ever running through the CPU. It is simply what you'd get with the core voltage set to Auto. It is ALSO what the motherboard requests when you are using Offset Mode. What happens is, the motherboard requests it, and then adjusts the voltage IMMEDIATELY using your Offset Voltage setting (adding to or subtracting from). Then of course, you have vDroop...

 

So, that's first.

 

Second, years and years ago, reducing vDroop or eliminating vDroop using either physical modifications to the motherboard or the LLC that some boards had back then (which was either Enabled or Disabled) COULD result in dangerous micro spikes during load-on and load-off. However, that was only a problem with low-quality motherboards, or good motherboards that happened to have low-quality VRMs and other low-quality components.

 

Today, motherboards like our P8P67 EVO or the P8Z68-V Pro absolutely do not have this issue, even with the Load-Line Calibration set to Extreme. The only bad thing NOW is, the higher the setting, the warmer the VRM gets under load. So generally, we should avoid Extreme unless we have direct aftermarket cooling for the VRM or very cool or cold internal case temps. Ultra High is ok provided our internal case temp isn't hot and we have good airflow. Obviously, the lower the LLC, the lower the VRM's temps. I prefer Ultra High, and I haven't had any problems in the 5 years I've had mine.

 

I have also never had a problem with CPU Current Capability set to 140%. I don't even know what the difference is between 140% and like say 130 or 120%. From my limited understanding, it's just a way to provide more overclocking headroom but it doesn't affect anything all by itself. I think it just means, "you can overclock higher if you want now". I don't like to be limited, so I leave it at 140%, and so far, so good.

 

Anyway, I haven't even listened to more than a couple minutes of his video, and I really want to get back to it because I love the German accent (and I need to hear the rest to see if there's anything else that he got wrong since he's already wrong at the beginning of his video).

 

Even if he is right about VID (I really don't think he is), you'd have to have an EXTREMELY high VID in order to have any problems. You cannot change what your VID is. Also, again, if he's correct, good motherboards like the ones we use today completely protect the CPU, thus making high LLC levels MUCH safer.


Edited by TwoCables - 7/10/16 at 7:54am
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post #9 of 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by iam1simpleguy View Post


Ai Tweaker

Ai Overclock Tuner: Manual
BLCK/PCIE Frequency: 100.0
Turbo Ratio: By All Cores
By All Cores: 41
Internal PLL Voltage: Disabled
Memory Frequency: 2133
DRAM Timing Control: 9-9-9-24-1
EPU Power Saving MODE: Disabled

Ai Tweaker\ CPU Power Management >

CPU Ratio: Auto
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology: Enabled
Turbo Mode: Enabled




Ai Tweaker (in the DIGI+ VRM section)

Load-Line Calibration: Ultra High
VRM Frequency: Manual
VRM Fixed Frequency Mode: 350
Phase Control: Extreme
Duty Control: Extreme
CPU Current Capability: 140%
CPU Voltage: Offset Mode
Offset Mode Sign: +
CPU Offset Voltage: 0.010V
DRAM Voltage: 1.6
VCCSA Voltage: Auto
VCCIO Voltage: Auto
CPU PLL Voltage: Auto
PCH Voltage: Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum: Enabled
.

These could be the reasons of instability. 2133 MHz and CL9 is hard for most ICs, you also have to adjust the VTT for that kind of RAM OC, and also you have to test your RAM stability at those timings, it is best to leave the RAM at stock to 1333/1600. And start from the core slowly tell you find your max stable core OC. After you find your Max stable core OC then set the XMP profile for your RAM and test stability again to make sure everything is going well, then if you are fanatic about RAM OCing you can start adjust timing and test RAM for stability again. You are only making it much harder by OCing everything at once.
My friend had a 2500K @ 4.7 GHz but no matter what he do the IMC was not strong enough to go over 1866 MHz.
Edited by HeadlessKnight - 7/10/16 at 8:14am
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post #10 of 102

It's not an overclock: that's what his memory is rated for. However, the tested latency is 10-12-12-31-2N. So yeah, I'd say his timings are too tight.

 

The VCCIO is the VTT on this motherboard. I had to increase mine by quite a bit for overclocking my CPU.

It's a computer!
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
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Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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