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i5 2500k can't even surpass 4.1 - Page 6

post #51 of 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by iam1simpleguy View Post

it's duly noted.
thx for the information pokeraper88.I keep this in mind when i try to OC after i do cleaning and pasting.redface.gif

Sure thing, I also looked at your pics from the MB's bios settings and most were exactly the same as mine, so if it's no overclocking correctly with such high voltage it must be a bad chip. MOst important things is get al C steppings off except C1, spread spectrum off and leave intel speedstep on (once you got the correct value for te voltage in that speed you chose).

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Just because one CPU that's the same model as yours can do X Ghz at X voltage, it doesn't mean all CPUs of that model will. Some will need far more voltage, and of course some won't need as much. The best you can do is, experiment, get to know your CPU, find out what it can do.

Yeah I know, But sometimes it is best to use those values as a reference.
post #52 of 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokerapar88 View Post


Sure thing, I also looked at your pics from the MB's bios settings and most were exactly the same as mine, so if it's no overclocking correctly with such high voltage it must be a bad chip. MOst important things is get al C steppings off except C1, spread spectrum off and leave intel speedstep on (once you got the correct value for te voltage in that speed you chose).
Yeah I know, But sometimes it is best to use those values as a reference.

 

If I had used those values as a reference when I began overclocking my 2500K, then I would've been quite frustrated by failure. My CPU is like his: it needs a higher voltage, clock for clock.

 

The only time it makes sense to disable C3 and C6 is when using an offset voltage. He's using Manual Mode, and so there's nothing wrong with leaving all power-saving options enabled - including C3 and C6.

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i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
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i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
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post #53 of 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by iam1simpleguy View Post

OK guys i'll follow ur advice and try to clean the dust away and apply TIM...I know its really goin to be big project as it gonna need lot of time and i don't know when i be able to do that...so before i leave this thread for a while i would really like to thank ironsight for looking into manual of my mobo just to help me and twocables for pointing out that TPU switch otherwise the root cause of BCLK thing could not have been rectified.I really appreciate you guys.
in the mean while i am gonna search which thermal paste to use noctua nt h1 or artic silver 5 or coolermaster.
and when my system is ready for OC will bump in again.

redface.gif

No problem, glad I could help! And I'm also guilty of not cleaning my computer,
I only dust out my graphics card and H70(Surprised it still works fine) every half a year...
Guess I'll join the pc cleaning train.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

If I had used those values as a reference when I began overclocking my 2500K, then I would've been quite frustrated by failure. My CPU is like his: it needs a higher voltage, clock for clock.

The only time it makes sense to disable C3 and C6 is when using an offset voltage. He's using Manual Mode, and so there's nothing wrong with leaving all power-saving options enabled - including C3 and C6.

I think I remember reading that disabling those c states lowers ssd performance. I might want to give manual mode a try and see what happens.
post #54 of 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironsight View Post


No problem, glad I could help! And I'm also guilty of not cleaning my computer,
I only dust out my graphics card and H70(Surprised it still works fine) every half a year...
Guess I'll join the pc cleaning train.
I think I remember reading that disabling those c states lowers ssd performance. I might want to give manual mode a try and see what happens.

 

Do you mean from the Sandy Bridge overclocking guide as it pertains to the P8P67 series of motherboards? It says this:

 

"In addition, continued testing with Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled and D2 or retail parts have shown some benefits to CStates being disabled when approaching, at or exceeding a 50x multiplier. An important note to keep in mind is that disabling CStates can considerably affect HD performance ( especially SATA6G ) Please keep this in mind when going for the highest level overclocks."

 

So it sounds to me like it just affects SATA III performance for P8P67 series motherboards. However, it seems to me that my Windows startup time is just about 1 second shorter with all of my C-states disabled. That leads me to believe that I get better SATA III performance with them disabled! So, I don't know. It seems to me that they're saying you might only see SATA III problems at multipliers close to, or exceeding 50x. I'd bet that if you don't have a P8P67 series motherboard of any kind, then this isn't a problem. Even then, it sounds to me like you have to have Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled, which I don't.


Edited by TwoCables - 7/14/16 at 9:38am
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It's a computer!
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
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post #55 of 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Do you mean from the Sandy Bridge overclocking guide as it pertains to the P8P67 series of motherboards? It says this:

"In addition, continued testing with Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled and D2 or retail parts have shown some benefits to CStates being disabled when approaching, at or exceeding a 50x multiplier. An important note to keep in mind is that disabling CStates can considerably affect HD performance ( especially SATA6G ) Please keep this in mind when going for the highest level overclocks."

So it sounds to me like it just affects SATA III performance for P8P67 series motherboards. However, it seems to me that my Windows startup time is just about 1 second shorter with all of my C-states disabled. That leads me to believe that I get better SATA III performance with them disabled! So, I don't know. It seems to me that they're saying you might only see SATA III problems at multipliers close to, or exceeding 50x. I'd bet that if you don't have a P8P67 series motherboard of any kind, then this isn't a problem. Even then, it sounds to me like you have to have Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled, which I don't.

Yea I'm running a P8P67 EVO at 48x using offset mode with C3 and C6 disabled, and I don't have Internal PLL Overvoltage enabled. Probably doesn't really matter with my slow Crucial M4 SSD but I do enjoy pushing my hardware to the limits.
post #56 of 102
Thread Starter 
hello guys

as suggest by many of you guys i been finally manage to clean my system thoroughly and lot of dust been removed and indeed applied noctua nh h1.so i have same settings as shown in pics but i just changed multiplier and cpu manual voltage.
so here how it has been so far.
with 43 multiplier and cpu manual voltage=1. 280
i ran prime95 for almost 30 mins of small FFTs and then Blend test for another 30 mins.temps were stable ranging from 60c to 65c.if u guys remember with same settings cpu temp reaches above 80c within 5-10 mins.
so i increase multiplier to 44 and cpu manual voltage =1. 300 and after 15 mins of prime95 ,its bsod.
then with this setting 44x and voltage=1. 310 ,prime95 ran for 30 mins without bsod with max temp around 65.
now i with 45multiplier and -voltage1. 345 won't pass window logo
so i increased voltage to 1. 375 won't pass logo again.
so here im seeking your advice again.
I novice in OCing so not sure how much i should increase or should i try with offset settings.
thx in advance.
post #57 of 102
As long as your temps stay in check SandyBridge can take 1.52 volts. Obviously don't run higher voltage than needed. Just reassuring you can go higher than your 1.375vcore if you want to try and at least see what you may need to get stable then decide if it's worth it.

For reference my 2500k runs at 1.485 vcore for 4.7-4.8GHz 24/7 use and takes 1.535 vcore for 5.0GHz stability. Some Sandy's love that voltage yo!! thumb.gif

Overall most have pointed you in right direction, you're looking good and doing it in increments of .025 volts is a good incremental way. Just keep an eye on those temps, I can't say that enough, just watch your temps, let that dictate your voltage level fear, not just the voltage itself.
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post #58 of 102

Yeah, you're fine. Just keep increasing the voltage. Great job cleaning the computer, my friend! Thank you for doing that. :)

It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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It's a computer!
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5-2500K @ 4.5GHz (1.368-1.384V fixed voltage) ASUS P8P67 EVO B3 (UEFI ver. 1850) GTX 780 ASUS DirectCU II (1228 / 6300, 1.180V) G.SKILL Ripjaws X 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1866MHz, CL9 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (C:\) 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO (D:\) 150 GB WD VelociRaptor Samsung SH-S243N 24x DVD Burner 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung SH-S203N 20X DVD Burner Thermaltake Frio Win 7 Home Premium x64 SP1 Retail AOC G2460PG (24" 1920 x 1080 144Hz G-SYNC) 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch 104-key Cherry MX Blues w/NKRO Corsair HX650 (Bronze, ordered on 12-12-2009) CM 690 Intellimouse Optical (1.1A) 1000Hz polling rate 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
Basic, but premium round X-Fi Titanium HD Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 (with 16 AWG Monster Cable... 
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post #59 of 102
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rx7racer View Post

As long as your temps stay in check SandyBridge can take 1.52 volts. Obviously don't run higher voltage than needed. Just reassuring you can go higher than your 1.375vcore if you want to try and at least see what you may need to get stable then decide if it's worth it.

For reference my 2500k runs at 1.485 vcore for 4.7-4.8GHz 24/7 use and takes 1.535 vcore for 5.0GHz stability. Some Sandy's love that voltage yo!! thumb.gif

Overall most have pointed you in right direction, you're looking good and doing it in increments of .025 volts is a good incremental way. Just keep an eye on those temps, I can't say that enough, just watch your temps, let that dictate your voltage level fear, not just the voltage itself.


thx rx7racer
if you hadn't incouraged then i wouldn't have increased the voltage upto 1.455..although it started showing in RED but im still goin but now i do need to ask again as i haven't changed anything only multiplier to 45 and increasing with 0.25 volts but still not able to log in.
i started from 1.310 at which 44 was stable..how far should i go?and i really think u guys just have a look at my settings once.are they correct..do i need to change anything.?
post #60 of 102
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoCables View Post

Yeah, you're fine. Just keep increasing the voltage. Great job cleaning the computer, my friend! Thank you for doing that. smile.gif

thx to you man...i never knew that cleaning could made so much difference.only thermal paste can't decrease 20c temp .it was all dusty but i just keep ignoring it.redface.gif
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