Originally Posted by DreamMachines Please throw in your ideas for the next Dream Machines mice products. Let's imagine there will be future DM gaming mice. You can offer ONE idea for a product name. Also let us know your thoughts as to what you feel makes a good gaming mouse.
I'm not one for names, performance is what matters to me, there is a serious lack of large mice for European hands, ie what in mouse industry is often called large hands, all mice today seem to be made for children with 125mm or so mouse size which is only good up to about 18cm hands. 135mm+ mice are rare and sought after.Shape:
IE3.0 or larger size, 135mm+, but ambidextrous
, that way more of the hand can rest on mouse and the corner of a hand doesn't push down into the mouse pad like on IE3.0 and any other right hand only mouse. Not too high, often mice are way too high like 40mm or more which is too much, 35mm is just fine. Nice wide overall 2:1 or so ratio with a nice fat rear that fills the palm, only one mouse so far managed that feeling and it's Roccat Kova (the newest one with those crazy buttons all over), check the side profile and rear shape it's uncommon and it works except the whole mouse is too short for large hands and a button insanity. Simple design, 5 buttons, no sharp or ergonomic edges to get in the way.Weight:
As light as possible, of course with the size weight goes up but try to keep it sturdy yet under 100g
.Cable: Not braided
, they only get in the way, scratch everything... use a lightweight but not way too flexible rubber cable
that does keep a preset shape is light doesn't get in the way nor drag and destroy anything. I'm not talking Zowie soft I don't like those they don't keep shape and come all crampled and bounce around when mouse moves. And yes 1.8m cable is short and one has to use USB extensions to get mouse connected directly to PC that is under the table, use longer cables
3360, Omrons, ... the usual as you have is good.Coating: None for maximum durability
, gloss and matte plastic, no rubber that will get destroyed by sweat in a year or two like they always do or get scratched off accidentally by finger nails. Same goes for paint, unless it's some super sweat durable paint and clear coating don't bother, it will come off after a year or two anyway from all the hand sweat and friction.Buttons: Separated from the shell
just like almost every other old mouse had, it's far better than the new buttons which are integrated into shell and often do not fit the switches at correct height due to variances and then offer different click feel between samples and even buttons on mouse. Just use buttons separate from the shell that float like they used to on good old mice, giving the same button feel consistently across samples and left/right buttons.
Wheel: A wheel that doesn't rattle or move in any other situation than when required so by a finger rotating it, steps should be nice and crisp, well defined but not hard to turn, more than the standard 16 steps is always very welcome.Edited by JackCY - 7/12/16 at 4:08am