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A new water-cooling adventure beings with an In Win H Frame 2.0 - Page 4

post #31 of 50
Thread Starter 
Tap Plastics made the acrylic. They didn't cut things to correct sizes initially, but re-did it for me for free. They were excellent to work with. I made mounting plates for reservoir and front rads out of the incorrectly cut pieces of acrylic I had left over.

The holes of the PCI-E backplates are just big enough to slip cables through, but the results were not pretty.


I thought about putting some 5mm LED in there too, but apparently 1 LED needs 3 resistors, and I hated soddering. Gonna forgo that idea.
post #32 of 50
Thread Starter 
need more led on the left side to balance thr lighting.



post #33 of 50
Did you finish this puppy up yet?
post #34 of 50
Thread Starter 
Unfortunately no. Had to special order the last true brass parts, which is a 2 week wait. In the meantime, i updated my s frame to dual 1080 so no hurry.
post #35 of 50
Thread Starter 
Approaching the finish line. Just need to put in 2 more led and tidy up the backside.


Edited by Lordevan83 - 9/24/16 at 7:42pm
post #36 of 50
I love the final product man! *drool* So jealous. I see you stuck with the PETG. I thought you were going to use metal, but the white nanofluid looks great in your build. I bet it runs great! Do you have any overclock stats? Game performance?

Also, how much did the whole thing set you back?
post #37 of 50
Such a beautiful build. I'm all about the use of fittings instead of heat bends. Love it, love it, love it!
post #38 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zlaayer View Post

I love the final product man! *drool* So jealous. I see you stuck with the PETG. I thought you were going to use metal, but the white nanofluid looks great in your build. I bet it runs great! Do you have any overclock stats? Game performance?

Also, how much did the whole thing set you back?

I didn't use PETG. I used acrylic. PETG is not as stiff and since I'm not doing bends, I decided to use acrylic, because I have a ton of that stuff around.

I bought a bunch of chrome metal piping, thought about it, but decided to go clear instead.

I haven't played on it much since I finished it. This is for "desk" gaming and photo editing, but lately I have been "couch" gaming Witcher 3 on my dual 1080 S frame build.

I lost track of the cost. A lot of the hardware are cannibalized from my old computer. I would say fittings cost about $700-800. You can save a lot on fittings if you do bends, but I hate doing bends. Acrylic and laser cutting cost $300.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphy Dog View Post

Such a beautiful build. I'm all about the use of fittings instead of heat bends. Love it, love it, love it!

Thanks. Heat bends were the most frustrating part of my previous build so I decided to F that.

Now on to my next project: The Lian Li PC-Y6 boat.

post #39 of 50
How are temps? I was curious about possible varying flow rates through different components with all the splits in your loop.
post #40 of 50
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quasimojo View Post

How are temps? I was curious about possible varying flow rates through different components with all the splits in your loop.

I haven't really tested it yet. I'm not a big overclocker or benchmarker. I dont anticipate it to be a problems. my goal is to split the gpus into parallel flow and then serial it with CPU/ram/mobo blocks in parallel. I'll try to run a stress test next week and let you guys know.
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