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post #1851 of 4340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Echoa View Post

my higher ASIC gpu clock worse than my lowest asic (270x), its down to luck of the draw and hoping you get a good chip. The higher are preferred for LN2 but thats about it. On air the ASIC doesnt mean much. Ive seen ASIC in the 50s on Tahiti hit 1300mhz+, according to the common belief thats not a thing.

Yeah, Id assume its more about what portions of the chip end up with hotspots and what have you. Leakage is not constant over the entire chip. For the average consumer ASIC should not really be the basis for a purchase decision.
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post #1852 of 4340
Quote:
Originally Posted by Echoa View Post

my higher ASIC gpu clock worse than my lowest asic (270x), its down to luck of the draw and hoping you get a good chip. The higher are preferred for LN2 but thats about it. On air the ASIC doesnt mean much. Ive seen ASIC in the 50s on Tahiti hit 1300mhz+, according to the common belief thats not a thing.

Eh... I dunno i just read the GPUz explaination that says higher asic means more overclocking. From what i read and understand the higher ASIC means less voltage leakage so it need less power/voltage and so it runs cooler. Please CMIIW

Btw what does asic have to do with the air and water cooling solution? What difference when its on air or with water cooling though? Its basicly the same right? the gpu ETC on contact with the waterblock that contains liquid transfer the heat via tubing and the liquid gets cooled by blown radiator, and on air the heat is tranfered with heatpipes and cooled by the blown fins? ( i know that the WC is cooler but what does ASIC quality have to do with that)

Anyone tried dipping the pcb into mineral oil may help that pesky VRM temp i hope hahahaha
post #1853 of 4340
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SourCrepe View Post

Eh... I dunno i just read the GPUz explaination that says higher asic means more overclocking. From what i read and understand the higher ASIC means less voltage leakage so it need less power/voltage and so it runs cooler. Please CMIIW

Btw what does asic have to do with the air and water cooling solution? What difference when its on air or with water cooling though? Its basicly the same right? the gpu ETC on contact with the waterblock that contains liquid transfer the heat via tubing and the liquid gets cooled by blown radiator, and on air the heat is tranfered with heatpipes and cooled by the blown fins? ( i know that the WC is cooler but what does ASIC quality have to do with that)

Anyone tried dipping the pcb into mineral oil may help that pesky VRM temp i hope hahahaha

Its largely irrelevant for anyone not doing extreme overclocking on LN2 or other sub zero cooling methods. Higher vs Lower ASIC respond differently in sub zero from what i gather. In air and water cooling situations it doesnt much matter and come down to simply luck and trial and error with OC tuning. Dipping in Mineral Oil is essentially water cooling everything in a bath and you need some heavy duty fans or pumps to circulate fluid that thick so its really not worth the cost besides for fun. Getting a good water block (which cools the VRMS) and loop is a better and more cosmetically appealing choice
Edited by Echoa - 10/10/16 at 9:53pm
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post #1854 of 4340
Hello ladies and gents of overclock.net, I need your assistance.

I own a reference Sapphire RX 480, unlocked from 4G to 8G. I lifted the cooler to check for ram module types before reapplying Xigmatek PTI-G4512 thermal paste and remounting the cooler. I also underclocked the card's power states by 90mv, so that the latest power state is 1020mv. Power limit is at +20%. VRAM is at 2075MHz and 975mV.

All is well.. except I can't find a fan profile that will actually not make the card throttle.

With something like 1800 min 2400 max, 72C target 87C max I can't complete a run of the Metro 2033 Redux bench without throttling. The issue seems to be that fan starts at 33% and ramps up too slowly to 55% or thereabouts and by the time it gets there I will already have hit 87C and thermal throttling will have begun. It's not much, sometimes to the 1150MHz mark or so, but it's annoying. I have a feeling I'm doing something wrong, the fan just takes forever to spin up, I want to make it spin up faster but have no clue how..

My case is a Zalman Z3 Plus - not the most spacious but not the most cramped either, so its mediocre air flow. Could you recommend me a fan profile that won't burn my ears but keep the card cool enough to not throttle? I don't want to OC, just remove throttling..

As a final question, I have a GHz edition 7770 lying about - would mounting its cooler on the RX 480 be better or worse? (Worse I assume, as it's an 80W TDP parrt.. but that could be because it has 1/8 the VRAM?)
Edited by appiah4 - 10/10/16 at 11:11pm
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post #1855 of 4340
Lower your target, increase min/max RPM.

For a better solution, use the BIOS editor. It gives you much better fan control than RSC/WattMan.
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post #1856 of 4340
Quote:
Originally Posted by KarathKasun View Post

Lower your target, increase min/max RPM.

For a better solution, use the BIOS editor. It gives you much better fan control than RSC/WattMan.

OK will do; will set it to 65C/87C and 2000RPM/2600RPM and hope for the best.

Is it possible I botched the cooler installation? I basically used the line method, placed the cooler on top and tightened the screws?
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post #1857 of 4340
Quote:
Originally Posted by appiah4 View Post

OK will do; will set it to 65C/87C and 2000RPM/2600RPM and hope for the best.

Is it possible I botched the cooler installation? I basically used the line method, placed the cooler on top and tightened the screws?

These values are very low for the fan. I use 3500/5300.
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post #1858 of 4340
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronnin426850 View Post

These values are very low for the fan. I use 3500/5300.

Is this for the reference cooler? I Beyond 2400RPM makes my ears bleed smile.gif 'm not overclocking at all though (actually I'm undervolting quite a bit..) so I was hoping I could manage the card somewhat silently?I guess you can't have cheap and comoftable together..
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post #1859 of 4340
Quote:
Originally Posted by appiah4 View Post

Is this for the reference cooler? I Beyond 2400RPM makes my ears bleed smile.gif 'm not overclocking at all though (actually I'm undervolting quite a bit..) so I was hoping I could manage the card somewhat silently?I guess you can't have cheap and comoftable together..

Why didn't you think of that when you bough the reference cooler?! It has two settings, mate - "silent" and "worth a damn" biggrin.gif You can't realistically keep a card with a reference cooler quiet on load without heavy throttling and undervolting. I run mine at .975V with said fan settings and target 60C. But I'm partially deaf, so the noise is not a problem for me smile.gif

EDIT: Also a quick note - you should set a high minimum RPM, because heat builds up, if you don't get rid of it early on in the load cycle, it may become unmanageable 5 or 10 minutes later. Essentially you could have 60C at 3500 RPM, or 60C at 4500 RPM, depending on how aggressive it spins up when it senses load.
Edited by ronnin426850 - 10/11/16 at 1:17am
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post #1860 of 4340
Ref cooler is only silent in idle conditions. Under load at stock it is similar to an XB360 or XB1.

If you want silence, set your clocks to ~1100 and voltage to ~900mv. That last 166mhz generates a lot of extra heat.
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