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post #631 of 4345
Quote:
Originally Posted by greytoad View Post

There's a small chip on my motherboard with a tiny bit of discoloration. I need a magnifying glass to see the discoloration. I'm sure it's involved with pci express power distribution. Slot is fine. 24pin is fine. Putting a heatsink on the chip might help. I would like to replace my power connectors with 16awg just to be safe. Sometime in the next month.

I just had a minor scare here. I was getting rendering exception-- file not found errors in batman arhkham knight that seemed better if I took my cpu back to 4.0 ghz and I was sure it was a cache coherency issue, but it was just my dumb error. I'd forgotten to reapply my voltage offset on my video card when I went back to stock for some testing. I'm surprised I got as far as I did in Batman with 113mv lower voltage to my gpu. lol.

When you do get the magnifying glass to tell us what that chip is.
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Nero
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post #632 of 4345
For the life of me I can't read the markings on it. Next time I take it out of the system. 40+ year old eyes just aren't what they used to be.
post #633 of 4345
Quote:
Originally Posted by greytoad View Post

I just need to reseat the block and replace the thermal pads and paste. I have 3 rads a 240 a 360 and a 420. Flow is fine too. The contact on the vrms is a little off on the thermal pads. The impression wasn't even when I checked fit. I might have a standoff not completely tightened down causing it to be slightly off.

edit: water temp doesn't move more than a degree or two on load so it's not the rads capacity. VRMs on the card are the least of my worries though. After an hour of valley in a closed room with fans on low they don't get out of the high 60s low 70s. That's good enough for now. It's not worth tearing my loop apart to fix. ambient is about 75 to 80 here. It's summer but I have ac. Closed room it gets 80 Fahrenheit.

I see. Use Fujis. Not the most expensive ones. At least the 11 wm/k. I only have a 240 and a 360. Only time my vrms get warmer is when I crossfire. But still not 60. Here is FS run . . .




My ambient is pretty low at 20, though.
Edited by rdr09 - 8/17/16 at 10:46am
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post #634 of 4345
Here's a picture of the chip on my good motherboard. I can't get a good picture of the board in the case. I'm not 100% this is the chip, but it's the only one with a small mark that isn't on my backup board. Again my eyes aren't what they once were. It's right below the first pciexpress slot near the back edge.



On my installed board there's a mark about the size of a needle point in the center of the chip that isn't on the backup. It's brownish in color. It's really hard to tell though.

edit2: on a second look. it could be a manufacturer's mark. I'd really have to take the board out to tell.
Edited by greytoad - 8/17/16 at 11:09am
post #635 of 4345
Quote:
Originally Posted by greytoad View Post

Here's a picture of the chip on my good motherboard. I can't get a good picture of the board in the case. I'm not 100% this is the chip, but it's the only one with a small mark that isn't on my backup board. Again my eyes aren't what they once were. It's right below the first pciexpress slot near the back edge.


On my installed board there's a mark about the size of a needle point in the center of the chip that isn't on the backup. It's brownish in color. It's really hard to tell though.

edit2: on a second look. it could be a manufacturer's mark. I'd really have to take the board out to tell.

Looks kinda like an international rectifier part? The logo looks similar, hard to tell it's kinda blurry. But if it is then it is related to power delivery stuff, never knew the pcie slots required some kind of controller though.
Nero
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Nero
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LG 24MP77HQ Ducky Legend Silver Case Red Switch Seasonic P860 Platinum Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Black 
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post #636 of 4345
again. It might not be the burned chip. It's just the only one I could find with a mark not on my backup board. My backup board is a year and a half older version of the same model. Suppliers could have changed.

pci express controller is on the processor now I think, but I'm not sure if the 12volt comes from there or gets added later in a bridge. My guess is it gets added later. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. I don't know. I haven't had to look in depth at motherboard layout since the p4 era bulging capacitor issues. I miss when we could talk about north and south bridges and have them mean something. Slot is fine though. I mean I'my typing on the computer in question.
Edited by greytoad - 8/17/16 at 11:28am
post #637 of 4345
I make work stable the video card to 1400 mhz and 1200v with 2170 mhz of mem - More than 1400 mhz its imposible with the voltage and no significant gain of performance.-
The VRM never will be less than 80º in practice by my experience, and usually have 60º in GPU with that setup with the AIO water solution.-
Don't check really the 24 pin connector, but I think its fine - Im going to see what happend with the 2 RX480 with OC at 1.20v
post #638 of 4345


That helps tongue.gif

Can't find anything on it, though.
post #639 of 4345
Been doing some checking for cheapest reference 480 8GB + custom cooler and it costs total about the same or more than a custom AIB 480 frown.gif
Just not worth it I think unless the custom 480s end up being with poor coolers and overpriced.
post #640 of 4345
That's probably not the chip. It doesn't get much over ambient under load. Back of the card rises to about the same temp as what my vrm sensors say and same for back of gpu so that's not a surprise. 24pin is 3 to 4 degrees over ambient at my current settings under load. I still can't find the burn spot i guess. I haven't hooked up the killawatt yet.

ambient is 25 degrees right now. not on load my 24pin reads 26. That's just what it is when the computer is on. Under load it reads 28. So it's actually only a 2 degree rise on the 24 pin. It's hard to read that chip without getting some of the video card in the cone of measurement for the infrared sensor but it's reading about 30 degrees under load. It's probably not the chip that's failing and that's probably a manufacturer's mark. The back of the card starts out 5 degrees below the reading on the vrm sensor and the back of the gpu starts out about 5 degrees above the gpu sensor reading. after about 10 min the back of the gpu ends up 10 degrees over the gpu sensor and the back of the vrms cut to 4 degrees under vrm temp. A back plate with passive thermal spreading is looking better and better.
Edited by greytoad - 8/17/16 at 4:29pm
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