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i7 6700k 4.8ghz 1.375v h100i v2 Temperature problem? - Page 4

post #31 of 57
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luan87us View Post

I just recently finished my 6700k build using the same cooler with you. After getting my OC to 4.8ghz at 1.35v vcore stable (manual voltage mode in bios of course), my CPU temp jumped to 85C quite often but only for a split second. It usually sit at 60ish. Ordered some gelid gc-extreme thermal paste and reseated my cooler with 2 washers (the one that came with the cooler) and the temperature dropped significantly for me. After 30 min of Aida 64 full suite (CPU, FPU, Cache) test and the cpu mostly run around 55-61C with very seldom spike to 80C (only happen a couple time) for a split second and I don't see any cpu throttling throughout the whole test. I've tested it multiple time with similar results. Thinking about returning the corsair h100i for something else. I've heard Swiftech h220l is a much better AIO cooler at a similar price range.

I did not get any washers with my corsair h100i v2. The temperatures are kinde solved but its 30c outside and 26c inside. The temperatures hit 75c under 100% load, wich is acceptable because the cpu isnt long under full load. I think of downclocking back to 4.6 since i dont really need much more. Always had corsair cpu coolers started with the h100i for my 4770K back in the day. I can't be asked to try out another brand since the corsair AIO's always satisfied me. Tomorrow my new fans arrive Noctua NF-F12 Industrial 2000. Mainly bought them to reduce the noise but the temperatures should drop a little.
Edited by Fuzzy05 - 7/19/16 at 9:55am
post #32 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy05 View Post

I did not get any washers with my corsair h100i v2. The temperatures are kinde solved but its 30c outside and 26c inside. The temperatures hit 75c under 100% load, wich is acceptable because the cpu isnt long under full load. I think of downclocking back to 4.6 since i dont really need much more. Always had corsair cpu coolers started with the h100i for my 4770K back in the day. I can't be asked to try out another brand since the corsair AIO's always satisfied me. Tomorrow my new fans arrive Noctua NF-F12 Industrial 2000. Mainly bought them to reduce the noise but the temperatures should drop a little.

There should be 12 washers included for mounting the radiator to the case. I've been researching this issue and it seems the H100i GTX or H100i V2 (GTX rebranded) aren't very sufficient in cooling the 6700k. That's why I've been looking at other options. I think hitting 80C under load at 1.35v is quite high. I don't know whether to blame Corsair or Intel on this really.
post #33 of 57
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luan87us View Post

There should be 12 washers included for mounting the radiator to the case. I've been researching this issue and it seems the H100i GTX or H100i V2 (GTX rebranded) aren't very sufficient in cooling the 6700k. That's why I've been looking at other options. I think hitting 80C under load at 1.35v is quite high. I don't know whether to blame Corsair or Intel on this really.

Oh those washers i thought you were talking about washers for the waterblock because im 100% those dont even exist. Since you said you mounted the cooler with 2 washers. The 6700k should be a pretty cold chip. Reading on other forums the h100i v2 should be more than sufficient for cooling a 6700k.
Does your case have good airflow? Does your GPU run hot? Where is the radiator mounted? What RPM do your radiator fans run at? What radiator fans do you have? What is your pump speed? Is the waterblock seated properly? Are their bent radiator fins? Are you using high quality TIM? Whats your ambient temperature?All those things have an impact on the temperature if im not mistaken.

EDIT: What motherboard do you have i read somewhere that some motherboards are thinner than others wich would affect cooling performance.
Edited by Fuzzy05 - 7/19/16 at 10:53am
post #34 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy05 View Post



Oh those washers i thought you were talking about washers for the waterblock because im 100% those dont even exist. Since you said you mounted the cooler with 2 washers. The 6700k should be a pretty cold chip. Reading on other forums the h100i v2 should be more than sufficient for cooling a 6700k.
Does your case have good airflow? Does your GPU run hot? Where is the radiator mounted? What RPM do your radiator fans run at? What radiator fans do you have? What is your pump speed? Is the waterblock seated properly? Are their bent radiator fins? Are you using high quality TIM? Whats your ambient temperature?All those things have an impact on the temperature if im not mistaken.

EDIT: What motherboard do you have i read somewhere that some motherboards are thinner than others wich would affect cooling performance.

Oh yeah I put 2 washers over each leg of the back plate which helps the legs sit flush with my mobo surface. Here's my set up:
- In Win 303 Case with 3 x Corsair AF120 LED at the bottom as intake, 1 x at 1000rpm Corsair AF120 LED at 1000rpm in the rear as intake, 2 x Corsair SP120 LED at 1200 rpm on the radiator as exhaust. My case was tested to have positive pressure. Corsair Link reported that the pump is spinning between 2400-2650rpm. I have reseated my waterblock twice and used the washers to make sure it is making contact with the CPU. Gelid GC-Extreme TIM was used to reseat the block (which showed tremendous improvement over the stock TIM). The radiator is brand new not even a scratch on it.
- Mobo: Asus ROG Maximus VIII Ranger
- GPU: Asus ROG Strix GTX 1070 OC edition (run about 34C at idle to 61C max in Heaven benchmark)
post #35 of 57
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luan87us View Post

Oh yeah I put 2 washers over each leg of the back plate which helps the legs sit flush with my mobo surface. Here's my set up:
- In Win 303 Case with 3 x Corsair AF120 LED at the bottom as intake, 1 x at 1000rpm Corsair AF120 LED at 1000rpm in the rear as intake, 2 x Corsair SP120 LED at 1200 rpm on the radiator as exhaust. My case was tested to have positive pressure. Corsair Link reported that the pump is spinning between 2400-2650rpm. I have reseated my waterblock twice and used the washers to make sure it is making contact with the CPU. Gelid GC-Extreme TIM was used to reseat the block (which showed tremendous improvement over the stock TIM). The radiator is brand new not even a scratch on it.
- Mobo: Asus ROG Maximus VIII Ranger
- GPU: Asus ROG Strix GTX 1070 OC edition (run about 34C at idle to 61C max in Heaven benchmark)

Seems like those washers are your problem. Those washers shouldnt be used for mounting the waterblock. It looks like your motherboard is bend really badly or something. Wow all your fans are intake besides the radiator fans? You should get some negative pressure in your case, i believe its better. The rest seems fine. Try to figure out that mobo dude it should be flush without the washers. and try a different fan setup airflow in a case should look like this

post #36 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzzy05 View Post

Seems like those washers are your problem. Those washers shouldnt be used for mounting the waterblock. It looks like your motherboard is bend really badly or something. Wow all your fans are intake besides the radiator fans? You should get some negative pressure in your case, i believe its better. The rest seems fine. Try to figure out that mobo dude it should be flush without the washers. and try a different fan setup airflow in a case should look like this

My motherboard is definitely not bend. The washers trick is VERY common fix used for Asus motherboards to get the H100i gtx/v2 backplate to sit flush instead of protruding through the motherboard. I don't think I need it as I'm pretty sure the block was making contact just fine with the CPU without them but I wanted to try it out to see if there's any different. Are you sure I should have negative pressure? I thought positive pressure was better for airflow/cooling purpose. And don't forget because of how my PSU is mounted, the PSU exhaust also exhaust the air inside the case out.
post #37 of 57
The biggest problem might be the fact that the pumps on these AIO coolers are pretty weak
Quote:
Originally Posted by luan87us View Post

My motherboard is definitely not bend. The washers trick is VERY common fix used for Asus motherboards to get the H100i gtx/v2 backplate to sit flush instead of protruding through the motherboard. I don't think I need it as I'm pretty sure the block was making contact just fine with the CPU without them but I wanted to try it out to see if there's any different. Are you sure I should have negative pressure? I thought positive pressure was better for airflow/cooling purpose. And don't forget because of how my PSU is mounted, the PSU exhaust also exhaust the air inside the case out.
My backplate isn't flush either. The mounts are protruding about 2-3 mm from the board and it was very loose after attaching the posts. However the block seems to be pretty secured on there.. I was a bit concerned about it, but I thought that it was designed that way.
Edited by NiKiZ - 7/19/16 at 12:33pm
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Intel Core i5 6600k Asus Z170-A MSI GTX 1070 Armor OC Kingston HyperX Savage 16Gb DDR4 3000MHz (2 kit... 
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Samsung 850 Evo 250Gb Samsung 850 Evo 250Gb Corsair Hydro H110i GT Phanteks PH-140SP 140mm fan (1x Rear exhaust) 
CoolingCoolingOSKeyboard
Phanteks PH-140MP 140mm fan (2x Top exhaust/rad... Scythe Slip Stream 120 DB PWM 120mm fan (3x Fro... Windows 10 Pro Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum 
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Corsair RM750i Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic Steelseries Rival 100 Roccat Kanga XXL 
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(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 6600k Asus Z170-A MSI GTX 1070 Armor OC Kingston HyperX Savage 16Gb DDR4 3000MHz (2 kit... 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
Samsung 850 Evo 250Gb Samsung 850 Evo 250Gb Corsair Hydro H110i GT Phanteks PH-140SP 140mm fan (1x Rear exhaust) 
CoolingCoolingOSKeyboard
Phanteks PH-140MP 140mm fan (2x Top exhaust/rad... Scythe Slip Stream 120 DB PWM 120mm fan (3x Fro... Windows 10 Pro Logitech G810 Orion Spectrum 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair RM750i Phanteks Enthoo Pro M Acrylic Steelseries Rival 100 Roccat Kanga XXL 
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post #38 of 57
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luan87us View Post

My motherboard is definitely not bend. The washers trick is VERY common fix used for Asus motherboards to get the H100i gtx/v2 backplate to sit flush instead of protruding through the motherboard. I don't think I need it as I'm pretty sure the block was making contact just fine with the CPU without them but I wanted to try it out to see if there's any different. Are you sure I should have negative pressure? I thought positive pressure was better for airflow/cooling purpose. And don't forget because of how my PSU is mounted, the PSU exhaust also exhaust the air inside the case out.

Hmmm i got the z170-a might need to try that trick aswell even tho my backplate is flush pretty sure. Just try out negative pressure and make sure the PSU has it own airflow as shown on the picture you are bringing in more heat into your case with your current setup. I also believe that positive airflow creates places where there is absolutly no air flow but i dont know if thats correct.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NiKiZ View Post

The biggest problem might be the fact that the pumps on these AIO coolers are pretty weak
My backplate isn't flush either. The mounts are protruding about 2-3 mm from the board and it was very loose after attaching the posts. However the block seems to be pretty secured on there.. I was a bit concerned about it, but I thought that it was designed that way.

Im pretty sure the pumps are strong enough since other people are getting really good temps with the same AIO and overclock. I might do a custom loop soon just CPU for now. I see you have the z170-a aswell? Hmmm i need to look if my backplate is actually flush. Did you try to put the washers in? I might get a piece of rubber and make my own washers since im pretty sure the default washers are metal and i wouldnt like to damage my motherboard.
post #39 of 57
Quote:
Originally Posted by NiKiZ View Post

The biggest problem might be the fact that the pumps on these AIO coolers are pretty weak
My backplate isn't flush either. The mounts are protruding about 2-3 mm from the board and it was very loose after attaching the posts. However the block seems to be pretty secured on there.. I was a bit concerned about it, but I thought that it was designed that way.

You are correct. They were designed to have some play but should be secured tightly once the pump is mounted. I tried the washers tricked because on the Corsair forums some people said that trick helped them. I didn't see much different after and the block definitely contacted my cpu good before as the old paste was spread very evenly over it. Just bad TIM in the die for me.
post #40 of 57
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luan87us View Post

You are correct. They were designed to have some play but should be secured tightly once the pump is mounted. I tried the washers tricked because on the Corsair forums some people said that trick helped them. I didn't see much different after and the block definitely contacted my cpu good before as the old paste was spread very evenly over it. Just bad TIM in the die for me.

Ok seems like im not gonna do the washers trick. Since im sure the waterblock has good contact with the CPU. Ill try different thermal paste this weekend.
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