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[Official] NVIDIA Titan X Pascal Owners Thread - Page 194

post #1931 of 7600
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookiesowns View Post


Yes, you have to remove everything. You can just avoid removing the acrylic cover by itself to remove the heatsink. Just take off all screws. 2 on IO shield, and then all the tiny ones plus the hex screws. Pain in the butt. The tiny screws are REALLY easy to lose also.

You won't be able to fit a uni block without some heavy dremeling or a very thick shim, you also need to remove the nvidia led logo too if you decide to mod. I don't think it's worth it.

Card is also VERY fragile without backplate.


Ok soo... it won't work when i remove the heatsink + backplate + nvidia logo... Is it the plate surrounding the GPU that will prevent it ? (small holes)
post #1932 of 7600
rolleyes.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by tin0 View Post

He's an overclocker, he knows his benchmark/hardware/software tweaks wink.gif

Every sufficiently advanced technology can be referred to as magic. tongue.gif
Joke aside, I see his test #2 score is high, his memory clock is very nice.
post #1933 of 7600
Quote:
Originally Posted by steponz View Post

Here's the new Firestrike Ultra Single Record up on Hall of Fame.

Only plus 200..... When you get to a certain point with clock, it doesn't get you a better score....

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/9740770

All Air.. beating guys on water and chilled water... Look at the gpu score.. thats what really matters........

Solid stuff step. Then again your max boost is also 2083 @ +200, must be a solid card as well =)
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post #1934 of 7600
Quote:
Originally Posted by toncij View Post

OK, I'm all ears - how do you manage such a score with the clocks being pretty much identical to other scores. I don't really get the joke here. I've noticed that, even when I have a 100% rock solid clock, results differ... by a large amount.

This is what Steponz was explaining in earlier posts where it's important to remove power limit throttle. Once power limit is removed the clocks will remain steady and provide a much better score. Shunt mod is a good start for air/water but Steponz will be pushing his card under LN2 soon and that's why he did a hard mod on his Titan X.
post #1935 of 7600
Any real changes in this 4.3.0.?
https://gaming.msi.com/features/afterburner
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post #1936 of 7600
Got an email from EK that my block has shipped. A nice surprise since it was supposed to be released on the 16th.smile.gif Wish I had it for this weekend though as I'm off from work.
    
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post #1937 of 7600
Quote:
Originally Posted by pompss View Post

nice vega i will try the mod as soon i get the waterblock.
getting 2138 on air and still no crash on firestrike.
Will Keep pushing
show the graphics score... clocks do not always = higher "productivity" with the leash(es) NV has on these cards. Also, Timespy is DX12 - run that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pompss View Post

Cant really say right now since the card its throttling and its installed on a old x79 rig and no games installed either on that rig

Also my paid version of 3d mark its installed on my main rig x99 but with firestrike i score 16780 on x79 and memory its still at a stock

Tomorrow i will get the pci express riser so maybe i will be able to run some test with my main rig x99 and post some score since i only have one pci express slot on my x99 itx mb.
x79 or x99, th4e graphics score will be nearly the same.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markklok View Post

I'll just order it today so i can play with it tomorrow smile.gif

Yesterday i opened up my XP to repaste it Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




After the repaste job (artic5) it got like 8 / 9 degrees warmer frown.gif So prob a poor job from my side.
But the default paste was actually very good.

100% load 100% fan about 66 degrees (so i mest that up *whups*)
really? that TIM is from the Cretaceous period. Try one of the PKs or Gelid or Grixzzy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by steponz View Post

Here's the new Firestrike Ultra Single Record up on Hall of Fame.
Only plus 200..... When you get to a certain point with clock, it doesn't get you a better score....
http://www.3dmark.com/fs/9740770
All Air.. beating guys on water and chilled water... Look at the gpu score.. thats what really matters........
Nice one S... here come the FrankenTitans!
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc0053 View Post

This is what Steponz was explaining in earlier posts where it's important to remove power limit throttle. Once power limit is removed the clocks will remain steady and provide a much better score. Shunt mod is a good start for air/water but Steponz will be pushing his card under LN2 soon and that's why he did a hard mod on his Titan X.
For benching absolutely- do you guys really think painting CLU on the resistors is a good thing to do to a card before covering it with a waterblock and using it for gaming?
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post #1938 of 7600
....
Edited by toncij - 8/12/16 at 6:38am
post #1939 of 7600
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookiesowns View Post


Yes, you have to remove everything. You can just avoid removing the acrylic cover by itself to remove the heatsink. Just take off all screws. 2 on IO shield, and then all the tiny ones plus the hex screws. Pain in the butt. The tiny screws are REALLY easy to lose also.

You won't be able to fit a uni block without some heavy dremeling or a very thick shim, you also need to remove the nvidia led logo too if you decide to mod. I don't think it's worth it.

Some good airflow over the vmem and VRM is enough to keep them within reason. I've been measuring them roughly 65C with a panaflo running at 1500RPM on the top of it, or around 80C with just passive airflow from my top rads. I wouldn't push vMEM or over-volt without some serious active cooling on bare mem or VRM, or heatsinks though.

Card is also VERY fragile without backplate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cookiesowns View Post


Yes, you have to remove everything. You can just avoid removing the acrylic cover by itself to remove the heatsink. Just take off all screws. 2 on IO shield, and then all the tiny ones plus the hex screws. Pain in the butt. The tiny screws are REALLY easy to lose also.

You won't be able to fit a uni block without some heavy dremeling or a very thick shim, you also need to remove the nvidia led logo too if you decide to mod. I don't think it's worth it.

Some good airflow over the vmem and VRM is enough to keep them within reason. I've been measuring them roughly 65C with a panaflo running at 1500RPM on the top of it, or around 80C with just passive airflow from my top rads. I wouldn't push vMEM or over-volt without some serious active cooling on bare mem or VRM, or heatsinks though.

Card is also VERY fragile without backplate.

What do you use to remove the HEX screws?
post #1940 of 7600
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary2015 View Post


What do you use to remove the HEX screws?
4mm socket. DO NOT TRY TO DO IT WITH PLIERS!!
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