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Peltier/TEC Hybrid Water Cooling vs 2.0 - Page 11

post #101 of 400
Ryan,

I've been a long time reader of your initial TEC chiller build, and it inspired me to do one of my own.

I'm using two tec1-12730 to cool my system, inside a Thermaltake core x9.

I've been wondering about the TEC assembly and insulation of the waterblock bracket and housing.
Have you tried additional insulation there ?

I have my tecs mounted on a steel plate and it seems that some cold is lost via the metal bracket of the Water block.



The image above is before insulation.

Cheers Toe
post #102 of 400
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by toeCUTTER78 View Post

Ryan,

I've been a long time reader of your initial TEC chiller build, and it inspired me to do one of my own.

I'm using two tec1-12730 to cool my system, inside a Thermaltake core x9.

I've been wondering about the TEC assembly and insulation of the waterblock bracket and housing.
Have you tried additional insulation there ?

I have my tecs mounted on a steel plate and it seems that some cold is lost via the metal bracket of the Water block.



The image above is before insulation.

Cheers Toe

Hi Toe, Very nice and neat looking!!!

Do you have any pictures of the underside of the water blocks under the plate?

And after insulation?

To answer your question I have not tried additional insulation on the water block housing , simply because my water blocks were flow modified for quick pickup from the cold plate of the water block. (Specifically meaning the copper base of the water block itself, with pretty much complete zero flow restriction through the water block itself, the cold is quickly removed that is being generated inside the block by the peltier, and transferred to the insulated reservoir which is the cold building storage.)

Since the waterblocks in my setup are not purposed to hold cold but to simply transfer it, there is simply no need to insulate the water block housing itself as thick as the housing wall actually is, if there is any cold loss at all it is negligible and probably not even measurable.

Ry
post #103 of 400
My insulation is in the test phase, it needs some "beautification" :-)

Heres a picture below the plate, which is actually the hot side. Cold is top.



Insulation


I used off the shelf EKWB supremacy MX blocks and just removed the inner jetplate and plastic mount. Its now just square and w the heat sink lines in the cooper base.

I do get a little kondensation of my vold side waterblock cooper side, not the housing

Here's a pict of the cold side


Uninsulated at that time.

Looks like this now


Cheers Toe
Edited by toeCUTTER78 - 4/8/17 at 10:00am
post #104 of 400
Thread Starter 
I have an EK Supremacy EVO and I thought it would work just fine removing the jetting structure completely out of the block that way no flow modding is necessary it's nice to know the MX has the same capability.

How many radiators are you using to cool the hot side?

From the picture it looks like the peltier is larger than the water blocks and hanging over a little on the perimeter, is that correct?

If that is correct, I would suggest getting 4 62mm x 62mm cold plates to fully cover the peltier hot side and cold sides.

It is not so much of a problem on the cold side except in producing moisture contacting the ambient air, lost usable cold, and ice build on the raw area.

But the hot side is the problem area and could cause early burn out of the peltier if the hot side is not fully covered

I Googled the Tec1-12730 and found a few different specs from different sources, they all said it was 62mm x 62mm though, is that what yours is?

Would you list the exact specs as was given to you?

The EK Supremacy EVO and MX should both use the same base plate and it measures on the EVO just shy of 58mm, so with a 62mm peltier you have 2mm all around the outer perimeter of the peltier exposed, is that correct?
post #105 of 400
If you look close i also have one evo, the other three are mx.
I didnt want to "destroy" them before i knew this was gonna work, as its not an exact replica of your system.

I am using two 360 rads to cool the hot side. Unfortunatly i found out that my 2nd peltier only drew 100w and now 0w .. So i have a 2nd on order.
The hot side Water barely warms up.

It is correct that the peltier is a little bigger than the blocks. However i thought that "gasket" from the "potted peltier" is a bit withdrawn from the edge and thus the actual cooling / heating surface roughly matches the blocks. I thought of cold / heat plates but questioned their thermal resistance as to further layers of thermal comound asf. I might be wrong. Mind you only been running this week.
Being married with child, sets its limits on the time left for tinkering :-)

The TEC is 62x62 yes, the specs are from eBay, so i doubt it is even a 12730 tec.
I can tell you it draws around 235w at 12v after running for some time. Thats roughly 20 amps.

Hope i got it all answered.

I an building a filtered PWM controller for the one TEC. This will get temp sensor feedback from the coolant. When it reaches a certain point a relay will trigger the 2nd peltier, as when I'm gaming.
I hope this will keep the electrical bill somewhat lower ;-) .. Plus its fun to build.

/Toe
post #106 of 400
Quote:
Originally Posted by toeCUTTER78 View Post

Ryan,

I've been a long time reader of your initial TEC chiller build, and it inspired me to do one of my own.

I'm using two tec1-12730 to cool my system, inside a Thermaltake core x9.

I've been wondering about the TEC assembly and insulation of the waterblock bracket and housing.
Have you tried additional insulation there ?

I have my tecs mounted on a steel plate and it seems that some cold is lost via the metal bracket of the Water block.



The image above is before insulation.

Cheers Toe

OCaddict that's three people that have been inspired to build a TEC water chiller because of what you have built with you system. great job on the build Toe, and I hope that the two of you guys get this working for you. thumb.gif
post #107 of 400
Thread Starter 
Copper base size the EVO and MX water blocks are identical, the only difference is internal with the machined cooling fins.

What you do is completely up to you but I do suggest adding at least cold plates to the hot side to completely cove the peltier I made my own cold plates out of aluminum plating.

The only other concern I have for you is the screws on the copper base plate of the EVO that I have stick out a little, they are not flush with the copper base.

Those screws sticking out can crack and destroy your peltier.

That may not be the case with the MX water block but it is with the EVO.

I was considering using the EVO as a replacement block for my 50mm x 50mm peltiers, but I already knew I was going to have to resolve the protruding screws issue and it will definitely be a problem on your 62mm x 62mm peltiers.

My system has been running now over 4 years, my advice is to help you get the same dependability for a long time of use and I am only commenting on things I see, that could cause you failure problems.

Which translates to lost time, and money, which having a family you don't have a lot extra of either.

Tip for the hot side cooling with water, make sure the pump is located after the radiators in the loop that way hot coolant is not going straight to the pump.
post #108 of 400
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

OCaddict that's three people that have been inspired to build a TEC water chiller because of what you have built with you system. great job on the build Toe, and I hope that the two of you guys get this working for you. thumb.gif

Thanks Tools, Please share with Toe what happened regarding the screws and peltier damage on your water blocks.
post #109 of 400
http://imgur.com/a/bCtex



ok, so some of the prep work being done to all 18 of the CPU water blocks, I am putting thermal epoxy over all the bolt holes in the bottom plates. than I will use the flat stone to sand the water blocks flat. I will start with 800 grit, than 1200 grit, finishing with 2200 grit. then I will polish the blocks with brasso. good fun. tongue.gif
my shoulders are feeling it already. biggrin.gif



to go back the last TEC's cracked right where the bolt holes are. tongue.gif

it is my hope that this will solve that issue. thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolmaker03 View Post

I think I get it now, so the combined lower temps, the fact that the water blocks where not absolutely flat, and the weaker frame, this all created a prefect scenario for cracking TEC's. redface.gif
post #110 of 400
The contraptions going on here

I think this thread is going to start looking like a bomb making class...
thumb.gif to NSA analyst that placed this thread on notice.
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