Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Any way to seal a leak without complete redo?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Any way to seal a leak without complete redo?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have a leaking 45* BP rotary and see literally no way to avoid a fitting being under stress. It's a Silverstone FT02 so not a good case for the job.

I'm not sure i even care that it be a rotary, but i don't want to drain again... And have to boil the tubing..again...

Anyway, it's leaking from the rotating o ring at a moderate rate (a drop per few seconds). Is a silicone gasket going to stop it? Or plumbers putty?
post #2 of 10
Fix it properly if you care about your computer parts.
Whats the issue with draining the loop anyway. Drain it into clean container and then re-use it to fill it back up when youv fixed the leak.
post #3 of 10
Definitely should fix it properly. Do it right the first time to avoid revisiting it over and over again. I love draining, replacing, and refilling, funnest part for me.
 
Spare Parts
(8 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel i5 750 Lynnfield Gigabyte GA-P55-USB3 ASUS Strix GTX 960 G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin... 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Crucial BX100 SSD 500GB EKWB EK-KIT L120 Corsair SP120 Koolance 2x140mm Radiator HX-CU1402V 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Corsair AF140 Bitspower VG-NGTX960 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Samsung Curved 27" S27D590C 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair Strafe RGB Apevia Iceburg 680 watts Apevia X-Sniper 2 EVGA Torq X3 Laser 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom 9750 ASUS M3A78-CM PNY XLR8 GTX 460 Corsair XMS2 (4 x 1GB) 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingPower
Hitachi 5K500 Silenx 92mm EFFIZIO Corsair SP 120 Red LED Antec 500watt 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5-6400 Skylake ASRock A170A-X1/3.1 Gigabye G1 Gaming GTX 970 Windforce CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) 288-Pin DD... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Bykski CPU-XPR-A High Performance Acrylic Nicke... EKWB Acrylic Nickel GPU Block Monsoon MMRS Reservoir Bykski BY-PUMP-XPH-PA Water Cooling Pump 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Koolance 240 30 FPI Radiator Magicool 280 14 FPI Radiator Bitfenix Spectre PWM 120mm Fan ML140 140mm PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan 
OSPowerCase
Windows 10 Pro Corsair RM Series 850 Thermaltake Suppressor F31 
  hide details  
Reply
 
Spare Parts
(8 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
intel i5 750 Lynnfield Gigabyte GA-P55-USB3 ASUS Strix GTX 960 G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin... 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Crucial BX100 SSD 500GB EKWB EK-KIT L120 Corsair SP120 Koolance 2x140mm Radiator HX-CU1402V 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
Corsair AF140 Bitspower VG-NGTX960 Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit Samsung Curved 27" S27D590C 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair Strafe RGB Apevia Iceburg 680 watts Apevia X-Sniper 2 EVGA Torq X3 Laser 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Phenom 9750 ASUS M3A78-CM PNY XLR8 GTX 460 Corsair XMS2 (4 x 1GB) 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingPower
Hitachi 5K500 Silenx 92mm EFFIZIO Corsair SP 120 Red LED Antec 500watt 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5-6400 Skylake ASRock A170A-X1/3.1 Gigabye G1 Gaming GTX 970 Windforce CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) 288-Pin DD... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Bykski CPU-XPR-A High Performance Acrylic Nicke... EKWB Acrylic Nickel GPU Block Monsoon MMRS Reservoir Bykski BY-PUMP-XPH-PA Water Cooling Pump 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Koolance 240 30 FPI Radiator Magicool 280 14 FPI Radiator Bitfenix Spectre PWM 120mm Fan ML140 140mm PWM Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan 
OSPowerCase
Windows 10 Pro Corsair RM Series 850 Thermaltake Suppressor F31 
  hide details  
Reply
post #4 of 10
Thread Starter 
Well i don't have a drain port nor the maneuverability to remove just that one problem tube, so i have to disassemble it all and re cut all new tubing... And I've only got like 2.5 feet leftover.

Personally i find it extremely stressful and just dread doing it again. Plus I'm not sure it's even possible without a new fitting.

I mean i know I'm probably gonna have to do it, but I've already put in over 20 hours thoughout 5 days in the first cleaning in 3 years. I'm going crazy.

Here's some pics to show how awful this line is kinked




G]


If you have any ideas how to fix this please share! I could not find a u-fitting anywhere!?
Edited by Derpinheimer - 7/29/16 at 7:17pm
post #5 of 10
I feel your pain. When I finished my 7 month journey of a build the very first thing I had to do was tear it apart. It killed me. But we both know it has to be done so just wait till you are in a better mood and go at it. Will not take you as long as you think because you already know how to do it. Also you might want to add a drain valve while you are at it. They are really handy in situations like this.

I wish you the best of luck
post #6 of 10
Thread Starter 
Haha I know man and I've been trying putting it aside for days!

Any ideas on a fitting combo that will get the reservoir pump out to the ek supremacy in port? Every other line works "ok".

I'm not seeing anything that will work smoothly even with two stacked 90* elbows off the vga block
post #7 of 10
My eyes are not what they use to be. I want to help you but hopefully one of the more knowledgeable water coolers will chime in. Or at least one with better eyes to view your pics. lol

I can see that kink in the last pic and it makes me cringe

Sorry I am not much help but really consider that drain valve
post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
You're right the pics are pretty bad haha- thanks for pointing that out. Here's another attempt at the problem area in case it helps anyone



was thinking of just replacing the rotary with a standard compression fitting and murdering the tube, but noticed that if i use a pliers on the kink to help reduce it, there is a noticeable improvement in flow rate.. So i really need to get rid of that :/

To complicate things more, the fitting out of the vga block must be a barb as ek didn't space them well and it can't use compression fittings with 1/2 x 3/4 tubing.

The only thing I've come up with is using solid tubing for this line with lots of turns?
post #9 of 10
Why not bring the line from the gpu straight down (90 degree fitting) and put a t-line fitting with a valve or just a t-valve and then bring the line back up to the rad. Something like that so you do not have that sharp turn and you get the drain valve in th process? Just a thought.

Just throwing around some ideas. You have to get rid of that kink.
Edited by eastexas - 7/29/16 at 8:24pm
post #10 of 10
Thread Starter 
I think i see what you're saying, that very well may work! Two concerns are that it's gonna be a rotary and there still might be pressure, and secondly that the waterblock threads are at a slight angle such that a t fitting may end up digging into the top of the block..

Just to be sure all was not for naught i booted the system and was greeted with this

Is the cpu dead? I never even removed it from the mobo.. Only reseated the block after cleaning?

Edit: cpu is fine! Motherboard decided it wanted to boot from the flash drive... That had been there for months.
Edited by Derpinheimer - 7/29/16 at 9:00pm
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Any way to seal a leak without complete redo?