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G100s + G502 = G304 Mod

post #1 of 35
Thread Starter 
EDIT: I have a spare G100s with PWM3366 sensor for sale, PM if interested ;-)
Japanese or Chinese Omrons of your choice, feather light cable, etc.

After my endless search for the 'best' mouse including, but not limited to: the Zowie FK2, EC2-A, G502, G303, Razer Abyssus, Razer Orochi, Corsair M45, I decided to take the liberty to 'create' my own mouse which would end the pursuit and finally suit my needs on all fronts.

I got inspired by another user who seemingly managed to put a G502 board/sensor inside a G100s, so first and foremost Qa'pla for this idea. I hope you have not patented this tongue.gif

The easier way was most likely to put a G303 board inside the G100s, but eventually decided to do it the 'hard' way. I really wanted to keep the original feel of the mouse's buttons without a single drawback or misaligned shell / buttons. Furthermore the outer shell remains untouched. With the G502 sensor board there is no need for cutting away part of the sensor hole either.

So I ordered the G100s as I've heard the mouse's shape was called 'Can't go wrong with' kind of shape. And man whoever said that was right. Never before did a mouse feel so good in my hands till this baby. My pinpoint aiming has increased tremendously! My hands are around small/medium sized and no matter which mouse I choose there was always something wrong with the shape mad.gif. I think the EC2-A eventually had the most natural feel but there was nothing to 'hold on' to so to speak. Its so ergonomical that when started sweating it literally slipped out of my hand. The G303 had the best 'pinpoint' accuracy for me but the shape totally ruined it. The grip was fine, the weird bumps on the side not only threw the 'feeling' off but also my aiming.

Anyway back to the point. I took photos of the majority of the procedure in case someone else is interested in this mod, which probably requires more patience than skill at the end of the day. So if you are interested, good luck!

- A G502/G100s
- Some soldering skills and Soldering Iron (Preferably with a small tip)
- Basic Equipment/Tools, Small saw, Pliers, Super glue, Screwdrivers, Razor knife, Thin (SMD) wiring, flux, Wire stripper or Scissors, sand paper (I used 100/150 grit)
- Double sided tape (Optional)
- Hot Glue Gun (Optional)
- A bunch of Omron switches if you want to reduce/change the actuation force (Optional). Or just use the ones you are going to rip off the G502 Board tongue.gif

I must say that I just recently got into possession of a new soldering iron, and I hadn't worked with one for over 5 years. It took me a bit to get used to it again, but it worked out smile.gif

Lets start!

1. Open up the G100s and start by cutting / sanding down the plastic edges around the sensor hole position until you can barely or no longer feel them. (Making this area flat is of great importance) The picture shows a half ass job tongue.gif Rectified later on as I discovered how important it was.

2. Open up the G502 and start by cutting off these plastic mounting holes gently with a razer. You can probably snap the rest off when you cut half way through. These seem to be the perfect candidates to mount the G502 sensor module on later on.

3. Place the G502 sensor board onto the sensor gap and see how you want to to align up. Whenever you have found a perfect position keep it tightly pressed and flip the unit over to mark the right position with a marker. This is where we will glue the plastic mounts on which we just recently cut off the G502. Once the positions are marked, double check to see if you did it right.

4. Use superglue to attach the plastic mounts we cut off the G502 earlier. Use a good amount of force until they are properly seated and the glue is dry. After that you can use the white O-rings that you should have in your posession as they came from the G502 when you removed the sensor unit, so you can cover them onto the mounting holes.

Optional but highly recommended: See the red squares, this is where I applied some thin double sided tape. This is just another measure to make sure the sensor will never move more than .1 microns thumb.gif, and it is simultaneously the trick that is used to fix sensor rattle in the G303 and pretty much any mouse.

5. For cloth pads it is highly recommended to apply the following procedure, although with hard mousepads it might not be needed. Use a razor to cut away the edges of the transparent plastic piece that covers the sensor lens. This will lower the sensor enough to be used properly on cloth pads, and puts you in the lift-off distance sweetspot. It would probably be safest to take the transparent lens off, this can be achieved with some pulling.

First cut off the outer ring, then the middle ring, and last but not least the most inner edge which should have a U shaped form. Just make sure not to damage the center of the lens, but overall the plastic should be pretty easy to peel off.

You should now be able to bend the notches back straight and put it back on the sensor module. Dont worry if it sits a bit loose afterwards. Glueing shouldn't be required.

6. Mount the sensor module to the mouse bottom!

Especially in the case where double sided tape was used, you should not really have to fully tighten the screws, as long as the module is no longer able to move when applying a tiny bit of force, the screws are sufficiently tightened up, otherwise you might risk breaking the mounts rolleyes.gif

Now it's time for the next big step!

7. Time to break the two PCB's!
The next photos will most likely not be in chronological order, so don't be discouraged by all the glue and wiring you see. The red markers on the photos is what is relevant.

I pretty much desoldered all the micro switches from the G502 board before this procedure. I assume it makes the sawing easier as well tongue.gif. Here is where we will cut the two PCB's with a saw. The G100s PCB does have some additional margin to play with, but the G502 board needs as much pcb remaining to keep soldering difficulty to a minimum.

Not the best sawing art, but I'm not that good at it!
Lets see if the boards fit.

As expected, it fits exactly. As if it was made for it smile.gif

8. Now comes the real soldering!

I used very thin SMD wiring and cut our pieces in lengths of 10/15cm just to make it easier to work with the board, as you will probably have to flip it over multiple times. The wires are very fragile so it's easy to break a connection/joint especially if they are too short.

If you are worried about the joints I would recommend using a hot glue gun to protect the soldering work. Just make sure you don't glue over an area that still needs soldering. Also don't glue too much on the back of the G100s PCB or you might get issues with the PCB's height later on.

The buttons below the cutting point are easy to solder and ready for use, and can be used as candidates for any button that can be remapped through logitech software. The Left and Right buttons cannot be remapped so we will have to give them a different treatment.

- (Minus) is Ground
+ (Plus) is Input

It is important that all buttons on both the PCB are properly wired (Ground to ground, etc) Otherwise the board will not start up wink.gif

Lets begin with the hard part, the left and right buttons. Since we had to cut away the left button and most of the right button we will have to solder those buttons directly to the 'lanes' of the G502 PCB. To make it easier we will simply patch the L/R button ground directly to the main pcb connector later on.

8.1. Left / Right Buttons

You can see in the following picture where the Left button lane needs to be soldered.

- Use a razer blade and gently start scraping off the top layer there, preferably just exposing only that piece of the lane. Try not to hit any others as it will probably make the soldering harder. The lanes should either way not connect each other.
- Once done, apply some flux.
- Tin the wire and leave a tiny bit of solder on the tip of the wire. (With ultra tiny wires its relatively hard to overdo it here though)
- Try to have a steady hand and you should probably keep your wrist fixed onto your desk when aligning the wire onto the lane, minimize any hand shaking or trembling. (Don't drink too much red bull biggrin.gif)

It can be hard to see if the wire is properly soldered onto the lane because too much force will probably rip it off either way. Just slightly bend the cable to see if the 'base' where you soldered doesn't wobble back up.

Now for the Right button:

Since its harder to do lane soldering, because the ground lane walks directly next to the input line most of the time, we will just 'tap' the ground from elsewhere later on. So don't worry about that yet.

8.2. Scroll Wheel.

The scroll wheel is relatively easy on the right side as they can all be soldered onto the original joints. Just patch the wires through in the same order on the old G100s PCB.

The left side needs two lanes to be soldered as we cut away that whole part of the PCB.

Now you can see where X and Y has to be patched through. Ofcourse you should solder the joints onto the bottom of the PCB but I didn't have any photo handy. I guess that was pretty obvious.

I was afraid circumventing a resister (possibly) could make the scroll wheel unusable, but it turned out fine. The scroll wheel works great smile.gif

8.3. Now just patch all the wires soldered on the G502 PCB to the old G100s PCB.
It doesn't really matter which physical button you patch through which switch since they can all be remapped in Logitech Gaming Software, except for the Left/Right buttons ofcourse. Just keep in mind that you should keep ground on ground, and inputs separately wink.gif Normally it wouldn't matter how you connect them as the micro switches are just there to let a signal through, but since the G100s board lanes are all still intact they are interconnected.

As for the ground on the Left and Right button, we will simply patch those through via the main PCB connector:

9. Result so far.

I guess it should look something like this, a wiring mess!

Try to place the G100s board and mount it with the original screw, but do it gently and becareful with the wires! If everything is right the board should fit perfectly. Since there is only a screw on the right of the G100s PCB you should make sure no glue or other stuff is blocking on the bottom side of the PCB. Undesired and increased height of the PCB due to some obstruction (Glue in my case) will screw up the button clicks.

I think some of parts of the inner shell might have to be removed, I haven't done any specific measures but I sort of visualized where some of the parts that were sticking out could potentially harm the board or wiring, just to be on the safe side.

10. End result, the G304 has arrived!

Weight without cable
83 grams
69 grams (Optional, with built-in weight attached)

Other optimizations:

1. I optionally replaced all the switches on the G100s PCB with 45/50 gram actuation Omrons (Omron D2F-01F) I used a scale to measure their actuation force to pick out the best ones. The mouse now similar clicks to the G303, perhaps even lighter. The G100s shell is probably a tiny bit stiffer, so this compensates for it.

2. Used a Razer Orochi de-braided mouse cable, extremely thin and flexible. 99% Wireless! thumb.gif

I require a better solution for these mouse skates tongue.gif
I'll probably create another 'G304' as I call this mouse, in case this one ever dies. Although I never had a mouse die on me before.

Some less related info:
The Zowie EC2-a board can easily be used for this mod as well, as it seem to fit fine for one, and probably easier to pull of as well as all the switches and scrollwheel can be soldered from a single connector.
Edited by Marctraider - 5/20/17 at 6:23am
post #2 of 35
splendid work, nice job! thumb.gif
post #3 of 35
Very nice final result, might even end up being better than the upcoming G200.
post #4 of 35
Thread Starter 
The G200 huh? Didnt know about that one. Sounds like a mouse with subpar sensor but who knows, I'm always interested in new shapes ^^
post #5 of 35
amazing work.

I wish I was motivated enough to rebuild :-P

May I ask how many hours you spent on that project?
post #6 of 35
that's a nice result there! thanks for sharing

the shape of the G200 is similar (to the G100s), but the mouse hasn't been officially announced yet.
"we" suspect it's gonna use the 3366, but who knows.
Originally Posted by Eutheran View Post

post #7 of 35
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by unplayed namer View Post

amazing work.

I wish I was motivated enough to rebuild :-P

May I ask how many hours you spent on that project?

I honestly started off pretty noobish, I kind of ruined the first board and didnt pay good attention.
Also had no clue where to really start off haha. But I estimate some 10 hours total?

I guess my second one will go twice as fast unless I use a different shell
post #8 of 35
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Bucake View Post

that's a nice result there! thanks for sharing

the shape of the G200 is similar (to the G100s), but the mouse hasn't been officially announced yet.
"we" suspect it's gonna use the 3366, but who knows.

Very interesting, time will tell how this one will work out. Thx for sharing!
post #9 of 35
Originally Posted by Bucake View Post

that's a nice result there! thanks for sharing

the shape of the G200 is similar (to the G100s), but the mouse hasn't been officially announced yet.
"we" suspect it's gonna use the 3366, but who knows.

I can't see a reason why Logitech would put side buttons, RGB lights, dpi button then use some mediocre sensor on their newest release.

I also find it extremely weird if they release the G303, G502, G900 with 3366 and suddenly goes for some lower tier sensor.

But well all mice companies are extremely unpredictable anyways. Hopefully they don't pull a razer abyssus.
post #10 of 35
Do you think something like this is possible with putting a g303 into a g400s shell? I happen to have two of each...
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