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Double wires sleeving/telios vs mdpc/awg size/ - Page 2

post #11 of 32
Thread Starter 
I just want to ask you if the x-acto x2000 is better for the job than x5828 version which come in a box.also does mdpc-x sleeving expand like PET sleeving or it melt when you light it by a lighter? I didn't get a good answer on this online. (Started looking for materials and adding them to checklists so I order at the same time.
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post #12 of 32

I couldn't find a x5828 box set, there is a X5028 box set with the #2 knife and the woodcarving knife, if that's what you mean. But the reason I specified the X2000 is that there are a lot of X-Acto standard knife lookalikes on the market which have plastic blade grippers which not only fall apart after the slightest amount of use but are extremely dangerous as well. The X2000 - and the X3000 - just look like a safer purchase, and they are quality tools to use.

 

 

I've not used PET Lightweight Sleeving, if that's the stuff you mean, but Teleios - and I should think MDPC-X as well - doesn't behave like that. It expands to about 150% of its normal diameter if you hold it in two places and push it together but if you a apply a lighter to it directly it first begins to melt then bubble then bursts into flame - quite quickly too.

post #13 of 32
Thread Starter 
I did a mistake in the name:its x5282. Sorry for this. So about the sleeve how can i get away without buying heatshrink? I heard it leave residues on the cable which is not something nice to see. But i dont want the sleeve to slip out of place too :/
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post #14 of 32

Residue only happens if the melt goes on way too long.

 

My timing for it is 8 Hotels.

 

I always use black heat shrink whatever the color of sleeve and I never get it breaking up and mixing with the sleeve.

 

Also, you're only supposed to be melting the shrink/sleeve sandwich over the wire crimp in the blue part of the flame, waiting to see the sleeve bubbling out of the shrink, so even in the highly unlikely case of any residue it would be completely out of sight.

 

As I remember it the thread to which I referred earlier went on for some time over complications arising out of the difficulty of doing it.

 

If Lutro0's 10mm method worries you you might consider the 4mm method I described in my first post.

post #15 of 32
Thread Starter 
Update : im not able to know the gauge of each wire in each cable :/. I Only know that the 12v one is 16AWG.would it be a problem if I use 16 awg for everything? Or its possible to use any tool to manually check out the wire (like a clipper ect or a ruler). Im uncomfortable with removing the sleeving on my already ugly cable. Im asking this as im ordering cables today from this guy on ebay
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post #16 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliomiller View Post

Update : im not able to know the gauge of each wire in each cable :/. I Only know that the 12v one is 16AWG.would it be a problem if I use 16 awg for everything? Or its possible to use any tool to manually check out the wire (like a clipper ect or a ruler). Im uncomfortable with removing the sleeving on my already ugly cable. Im asking this as im ordering cables today from this guy on ebay

Other than possibly having problems crimping pins to it, using all #16 is just fine. #16 and, occasionally, #14 is all I use.
     
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post #17 of 32
Thread Starter 
I still have to order the wires for this. After looking into lutro0 faq I think that I can do the multi Sata power cables myself with the single long sleeved cable where i cut the insulation at intersections. Still need to find a video about this. Does push in connectors need terminals or so? I dont find anyway of using pins for this one...also I've got a question. Is theres any other method than the Y soldered that lutro0 shows for double wires? I already asked about this in the first post but I don't think it's safe to replace 2 wires with a single one that carry 1.5x max Amp less than both wires (less copper surface area ) any way like sleeving both cables with a single sleeve or sleeve both or any other method that wouldn't come to my mind? I don't want to fry or burn my pc because of my own errors. Sorry if I look like a scared ***** but people here will certainly have more experience and thus can help me doing this safely.what other things should be made right in order to mot cause a hazard ? List what you know about this please.thanks
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post #18 of 32

Are you sure you can see 16awg wires in the 24pin cable? The only reference I can find is the original Techpowerup review, where it says:
 

Quote:
As you can see in the table above there are six PCIe connectors which in pairs start from a common connector but immediately split into two separate cables. There are also two EPS connectors which can be used at the same time with the six PCIe ones. The EPS and PCIe connectors use thicker, 16AWG, wires while all other connectors, including the 24pin ATX, use 18AWG gauges. We would highly prefer the 24pin ATX to use 16AWG gauges too for smaller impedance, something that would lead to lower voltage drops on the minor rails, especially at high loads.

There is also a high resolution image of the original cable set here which shows the 24pin looking exactly like the usual 18awg cable with 22awg messenger wires and 20awg wires for Blue and Grey of most Seasonic Gold and Platinum series PSUs. To be sure, the PCIE cables have 16awg wires - presumably for both 12V and Ground - but the point of these higher wattage models is to give more power to graphics cards - not to the motherboard. So if that is the case I would advise stepping the 24pin cable up a gauge to 22off 16awg wires, 2off 18awg wires and 4off 20awg wires.

 

Now that Lady Fitzgerald has had a go at Lutro0's soldering method:D I can see how you might be a little nervous about following it. I would just say that many others have done so without reporting back any problems and leave it at that. If you have a hot air gun as well as a soldering iron and want to get into using Polymorph I have posted a Solderless Shrink Free method knotted instead of soldered double wires which works well enough for me.

As far as the level of electrical hazard goes, once you have accounted for neat crimping without any loose wires, making sure that all wires conform in gauge and go to their correct pins and that you complete the project by using a PSU Tester, you should have nothing more to worry about than any other PC modder.


Edited by Himo5 - 8/13/16 at 5:10am
post #19 of 32
Thread Starter 
The link for your solderless method is broke :/ Im not able to open it as it give a DNS error
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post #20 of 32

Sorry about that, I must have slipped up in the pasting. If it doesn't work now, please let me know.

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