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Tutorial: Power Target limit hardware mod (Shunt mod) for Titan X and many other Nvidia GPUs - Page 16

post #151 of 302
I've got a 1080ti, but I don't think I'm going to be experimenting on that card;)

I've been tempted to pick up an older card, say a GTX670, and try it out on that one. The benefit that I see from a low-melting alloy like the one's I mentioned is that they are the best of both worlds. They readily melt in boiling water, so they should be fairly easy to apply and remove(No warranty voiding). On the other hand though, they have a melting point high enough that there is no concern related to liquid metal sitting on top of the PCB. I do actually have quite a bit of Wood's metal already, so it's just a matter of finding a cheap card for experimenting.

The alloys should also have a resistance quite a bit higher than that of solder, so my hope is that they can just be applied directly like the liquid metal, rather than trying to use them to "solder" a thin wire across.
Edited by niobium615 - 4/12/17 at 8:02pm
post #152 of 302
That seems like too much CLU for me, it can easily spill away from the shunts if the card is moved. From my experience CLU can be applied with only a very thin layer so just barely covering the shunts, but i am not sure if that will lower the resistance enough. Also did anybody find and used any good silver lacquer? In my local shops i only found some with specified conductivity of several 10ohms for 1cm of length, that seems like too much resistance for me, but who knows and maybe the real resistance would be much lower?
post #153 of 302
any words of wisdom on shunting received cunductonaut today going to shunt one of the Titan Xp's tonight. as mentioned should power target be set to 110? do i use my current figures for overclocking or start from scratch? what should i look out for? sorry for all questions.... NEWB
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post #154 of 302
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneCosmic View Post

That seems like too much CLU for me, it can easily spill away from the shunts if the card is moved. From my experience CLU can be applied with only a very thin layer so just barely covering the shunts, but i am not sure if that will lower the resistance enough. Also did anybody find and used any good silver lacquer? In my local shops i only found some with specified conductivity of several 10ohms for 1cm of length, that seems like too much resistance for me, but who knows and maybe the real resistance would be much lower?
The
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbravo33 View Post

any words of wisdom on shunting received cunductonaut today going to shunt one of the Titan Xp's tonight. as mentioned should power target be set to 110? do i use my current figures for overclocking or start from scratch? what should i look out for? sorry for all questions.... NEWB

You may want to check out Titan Xp Owner's thread for overclocking tips.
post #155 of 302
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterOC View Post

The
You may want to check out Titan Xp Owner's thread for overclocking tips.

I'm not asking about overclocking I'm asking about shunting. Thought this was the right thread. so basically you dont have the card or have done the shunt but your replying to my question??? laughingsmiley.gif
Edited by Jbravo33 - 4/13/17 at 3:07pm
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post #156 of 302
Is it necessary to put CLU/LM also on the PCIE shunt? I put it just to the 6+8 pin shunts on 1080 Ti FE, but power target is still the same.
post #157 of 302
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneCosmic View Post

Is it necessary to put CLU/LM also on the PCIE shunt? I put it just to the 6+8 pin shunts on 1080 Ti FE, but power target is still the same.

If you use CLU on the shunt and its not doing anything, it could mean that the CLU is not touching both side of the shunt correctly.

There was a lot of resin left from the original solder on the shunt on my card. If the resin cover the whole contact area of the clu you add, it may not be touching the metal of the shunt and not work. Because 2 shunt with CLU should be enough to lower your power limit.

You could gently clean the resin from the shunt ( maybe a litle sanding paper or just scraping a little with a screw driver but be sure to clean well after and not touch anything else) and make sure you are touching the metal of both side of the shunt with the CLU.

I would suggest not to mod the shunt of the PCIE because it could pull too much from the motherboard and it is normally not necessary to remove power throttling.
post #158 of 302
I did already explained it in the 1080 Ti thread. The source of the issue was probably Strix BIOS which i had in my Ti, seems like the shunt mod doesn't work with it, can anybody else confirm it?

Thats why i didn't mod the PCIE shunt because i didn't want to overload the 24pin ATX cable or the mobo PCIE eventhough it is a Rampage V Extreme. Actually i can hit maximally 80% TDP in Furmark in GPU-Z and 105% TDP in MSI AB and in both it is shown that the limiter is Power Limit however i can't hit the PL in anything else, only a slight hit of PL in Time Spy GPU test 2 where it downclocks for a second from 2114MHz, but the shunt mod increased the PL by about 50W. I have cleaned both shunts properly with isopropyl alcohol several times before applying CLU and i did also try to rub the CLU properly on both of them several times so they would make a proper contact and only covered the top of them perfectly smile.gif

What is your frequency in Furmark with shunt mod and full PL?
post #159 of 302
works wonders on the Titan Xp . haven't even tried to push. only cuz I shunted one card will drain loop over weekend and do second card. I lucked out and got two good ones. comparison on squad

before shunt max tdp 121.8


after 100.3
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post #160 of 302
Quote:
Originally Posted by EniGma1987 View Post

with 2 resistors covered you can already drop the cards power limit calculation by 30-35%, which is plenty for any sort of air and water cooling. It gives you so much headroom it would even let you push past what I consider to be safe power draw for the VRM. Also doing all 3 could drop resistance of the circuit too much and that would cause the card to go into fault mode

Silver pen will not work, it has far higher resistance than Liquid Ultra does and probably even more than the 5 milliohm resistors themselves. It wont do anything at all to help you

This silver pen has 0.0001 Ω·cm resistance
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/pens/842ar-p-silver-conductive-pen

Or alternatively to be even less runny in a vertical stance, following conductive glue has 0.0035 Ω·cm resistance
https://shop.agic.cc/collections/starter-products/products/conductive-paste-no-solder

Think either of them might work?
Edited by PeterOC - 4/13/17 at 11:02pm
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