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Tutorial: Power Target limit hardware mod (Shunt mod) for Titan X and many other Nvidia GPUs - Page 24

post #231 of 299
Has anyone been running this mod 24/7 or is it just for benching for a few days?
post #232 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterOC View Post

Has anyone been running this mod 24/7 or is it just for benching for a few days?

Why are you so scared to do it? Either do it or don't, lol.

You know you can still use the power slider to limit your card to 300 Watts if you wanted or just cap it at 330 Watts etc. But don't do it if you don't feel confident or hesitant.
post #233 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

Why are you so scared to do it? Either do it or don't, lol.

You know you can still use the power slider to limit your card to 300 Watts if you wanted or just cap it at 330 Watts etc. But don't do it if you don't feel confident or hesitant.

Noone is scared. I've seen several posts where people are saying they're removing the mod after benching so want to see if anyone is actually using this for gaming over several months.
post #234 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterOC View Post

Noone is scared. I've seen several posts where people are saying they're removing the mod after benching so want to see if anyone is actually using this for gaming over several months.

I've been using it for 1.5 weeks now, and I'll keep it as long as it works.

Gaming, it doesn't really go over 350 Watts anyways. It's only timespy, superposition, etc that pushes the card to 375+ watts.

As long as you take the precautions to keep your card cool, it's not going to really hurt anything. All the components are equal to cards that run 375 watts, meaning they're overbuilt and overkill for the amount of power that is going through.

The VRM are only drawing about 16 amps each and their spec shows they can take 40 amps. They're max temperature is like 150C as well, and gamer nexus measured with the FE blower kept the VRMs at 70C with fan speed at 30%.

People that have VRMs popping probably accidentally removed a thermal pad off of their VRM or something.

But I'm not too worried after doing research.
post #235 of 299
Conductunaut is a bit thicker than CLU, would it be better for a vertical shunt mod with nail polish acrylic covering the area around the shunt and an EK waterblock/backplate on?
    
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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post #236 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

Conductunaut is a bit thicker than CLU, would it be better for a vertical shunt mod with nail polish acrylic covering the area around the shunt and an EK waterblock/backplate on?

I cant compare the two, but i used conductonaut and had the impression it is very sticky. i used quite much, forming almost a little "hill" on the shunts. i slighted shaked the card in different positions to watch the behavior of the conductonaut and could not see it moving at all. i would guess you could use it on a vertical setup.
post #237 of 299
If no one has mentions this for protection when using liquid metals, I use this for various sealing applications.

https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9M352X1619
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ROJO
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post #238 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwwanna View Post

If no one has mentions this for protection when using liquid metals, I use this for various sealing applications.

https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9M352X1619

I just bought some of this stuff, it should work, its none conductive and easy to remove......
im planning on using this with the shuntmod + use this stuff around my GPU die then apply liquid metal to the gpu as well, this stuff should stop the liquid metal from touching those little pins wink.gif
or i might use the Liquid electrical tape i have around the gpu die to protect incase clu gets spread out to much and touches those little ic`s wink.gif

though like i said this silicone should work perfect for putting around the shunt then putting my waterblock on and it will create a little circle barrier around the shunt so when put in my case it wont go anywhere apart from the bottom of the waterblock smile.gif
post #239 of 299
Honestly, at this point, what's worrying me is not the liquid metal shorting out a component on the PCB. That's a pretty easy fix, as evidenced by all of the suggestions on this thread. Rather, it's the diffusion of gallium into the solder over time, slowly weakening the joint. One person already had the resistor pop off, and I wouldn't be surprised if it happened to a lot more people once they've been running the mod for >1yr.
post #240 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by niobium615 View Post

Honestly, at this point, what's worrying me is not the liquid metal shorting out a component on the PCB. That's a pretty easy fix, as evidenced by all of the suggestions on this thread. Rather, it's the diffusion of gallium into the solder over time, slowly weakening the joint. One person already had the resistor pop off, and I wouldn't be surprised if it happened to a lot more people once they've been running the mod for >1yr.

Then why not coat the solder joint with... Liquid Electrical tape? I took a small paint brush and just brushed around the resistor and made sure the solder joint was completely covered with 2 to 3 coats of liquid electrical tape.


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