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Tutorial: Power Target limit hardware mod (Shunt mod) for Titan X and many other Nvidia GPUs - Page 25

post #241 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

Then why not coat the solder joint with... Liquid Electrical tape? I took a small paint brush and just brushed around the resistor and made sure the solder joint was completely covered with 2 to 3 coats of liquid electrical tape.
That defeats the entire purpose. The liquid metal MUST touch the solder joint, because they need to make electrical contact. If you coated the solder joint in an insulator, the shunt mod wouldn't work.
post #242 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by niobium615 View Post

That defeats the entire purpose. The liquid metal MUST touch the solder joint, because they need to make electrical contact. If you coated the solder joint in an insulator, the shunt mod wouldn't work.

These SMD resistors have a little conductor pad at each end that go all the way around the device. They are only soldered on the bottom, although the solder will likely flow up the sides, so the top should be free of solder - just the conductor pad area of the resistor.
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post #243 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterOC View Post

Has anyone been running this mod 24/7 or is it just for benching for a few days?

Been running 24/7 since I tried it. game @2100 every night no issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJ87D View Post

Then why not coat the solder joint with... Liquid Electrical tape? I took a small paint brush and just brushed around the resistor and made sure the solder joint was completely covered with 2 to 3 coats of liquid electrical tape.


did you heat up the tape? looks nice and neat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dunbheagan View Post

Same for DOOM 4K, Nightmare Settings

2100MHz GPU, no drops
6003MHz Memory
1,05V
GPU Temp 37 degree

I am pretty shure i will keep it at these settings, i am totally satisfied.

PS: I used Conductonaut between GPU Die and Waterblock

nice! looks clean. card is a monster. glad your enjoying. I want to also add conducto to gpu just been lazy in tearing apart loop.
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post #244 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by GnarlyCharlie View Post

These SMD resistors have a little conductor pad at each end that go all the way around the device. They are only soldered on the bottom, although the solder will likely flow up the sides, so the top should be free of solder - just the conductor pad area of the resistor.
The problem is, if any solder at all was wicked to the top of the resistor when it was soldered on(often a bit is), gallium can diffuse through that layer and attack the rest of the joint.
post #245 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by niobium615 View Post

The problem is, if any solder at all was wicked to the top of the resistor when it was soldered on(often a bit is), gallium can diffuse through that layer and attack the rest of the joint.

Which is why I put "should" in italics. My advice would be to avoid doing the mod if you feel uncomfortable with the chance of weakening the solder joints.
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post #246 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by niobium615 View Post

That defeats the entire purpose. The liquid metal MUST touch the solder joint, because they need to make electrical contact. If you coated the solder joint in an insulator, the shunt mod wouldn't work.

Do you understand you're talking to someone that has already done it and has it working?

It doesn't have to run off on the side and touch the solder. It just barely has to touch the edges of the exposed resistor.



The guy that has his resistor fall off literally applied it onto the solder joint like you're talking about.
post #247 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by niobium615 View Post

The problem is, if any solder at all was wicked to the top of the resistor when it was soldered on(often a bit is), gallium can diffuse through that layer and attack the rest of the joint.

When inspecting my resistors, NO SOLDER WAS ON TOP OF THE RESISTOR. Solder only existed at the boast of the resistor, as any competent IPC certified technician should follow. No one is perfect, I guess you're screwed if you do have a mess of solder, but these are factory soldered and I don't see soldering running everywhere like you are saying.

Furthermore, you can always coat any solder that might be present as you just need the edges of the resistor to touch one another via liquid metal.
post #248 of 299



Don't have to worry about it sliding off now redface.gif The first pic was the first time I did it. The second time, I put a bit more Conductonaut on that one in the back. Now, it looks like the one close to the power connectors. I didn't touch the one near the corner. Dropped limit by 35%, 55% in Superposition 4k (what a power hog). What was ~117-120% is now 86-89%. Superposition 4k wonderfully ramps up to ~105%. Was averaging around 1947 without the mod (actually, I think it was a bit less), and now I'm getting a flat 2050 (+180/+800 Titan Xp).

I ran some benches for a while to see if the hot glue would melt or soften under some heat, and when I took it apart to verify, it didn't budge a bit. I'd say this is a pretty safe way to shunt mod these cards. Lump on some conductonaut and cover with hot glue. It isn't conductive, it won't melt, and it'll peel off when you want to revert to stock. However, headaches with removing liquid metal will be guaranteed. You miss one little ball, and you can kiss your graphics card goodbye, so make sure to go over it REAL good.

When I removed it the first time, it somehow got underneath the resistor. I had to get some canned air to blast it out...and then I had to clean up the result. So, make sure you keep the LM on top of the resistor or you will have a good time. I did have some success shoveling it up with some mini flathead bits when I was situating it the second time around.
post #249 of 299
Did the shunt mod today. Aside from shooting the conductonaut onto my wall, it was pretty straightforward. I also applied the liquid tape, more so because I also used it on the GPU die with my hybrid cooler, and since it was my first time working with it I didn't want to risk it oozing out if I over applied.

Pwr limit via GPUZ is like 38% max now so it was successful, but I still can't get past my 2063Mhz limit. Oh well.
post #250 of 299
Quote:
Originally Posted by EniGma1987 View Post

They do generate heat, as their purpose is to cause a voltage drop which dissipates power. However the drop is extremely small, and while I dont know exact figures as I do not know all of Nvidia's circuit specs, I would imagine the amount of power dissipates is under a quarter watt each. Small enough that even covering the resistors should still provide enough passive heat dissipation through the liquid electrical tape.

Another way to do it for vertical setups would be the small wire and solder method, as that is safer in the first place. However it requires a fairly decent degree of small soldering experience and the necessary soldering hardware.

You could also hot glue gun around it afterwards to prevent the clu from slipping off.
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