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help with random shutdowns - Page 2

post #11 of 22
bsod's have codes. a ram code is often in the form of 0x00000001, yup, a bunch of zeroes with ones. You have many types of bsod's and the codes can be researched on the microsoft website, and the error identified. if its an irq_not_less_or_equal bsod, its probably a peripheral conflict...

sometimes looking the code up on the microsoft website can help, but it also helps to run the system with all peripherals disconnected (any unnecessary pci cards, usb devices, back up devices, any unnecessary integrated components in bios) and with 1 stick of ram at a time to isolate the problem.

i doubt its either ram or the power supply
post #12 of 22
Thread Starter 
yes, i have all the codes and the conditions surrounding them (before the BSoD and after looking at Event Viewer) written up real good in a Google Document. it is shared here in case it could be of help. believe me, i have seen many different codes, mostly unrelated to each other, and i have Google'd each one for a long time. either it's that i am not looking at the correct information/code/website or that there is no pattern behind them (to my eyes, at least).

i'm not sure how a RAM module could be bad but would not show on all different memory tests that i've done with three different programs in different settings and would pass all AIDA and Prime95 benchmarks and stress tests. is that something that could actually happen? i am really curious to know.
post #13 of 22
you have to run those memory tests for 48+ hours to be sure there is no memory error, thats why its easier to just run with 1 stick at a time while diagnosing. after you do either of the 2- a 48 hour test, or you go thru all 4 ram sticks 1 at a time, and still problems, i would venture to say that it is your hard drive, it could be power supply, but most of those bsod's relate to the hard drive
post #14 of 22
if it were the ram, you would see more 0x0000001's, driver and usb error bsod's
post #15 of 22
Enermax no longer have their own factory so the ones making Enermax units is now Chancel Well Technology Yue-Lin Electrical Technology and Fortech Electronics
So no they dont have their own factory their own inspectors or any of the stuff you claimed they have so no wrong

Dont believe me here you go look for yourself
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page567.htm

As for my EVGA SuperNova G2 its built by Super Flower and its a rebranded version of the Super Flower Leadex platform
Which is much better then your old mediocre Enermax Revolution 85+ which does more then 4% voltage regulation or just barely within ATX specifications vs the 1% on the Leadex/G2

If you had come off as less rude less stubborn and more willing to listen i might have taken you seriously
But after that last post i just cant take you or anything you say serious when its based on such personally biased and outdated information

Stop posting like you are angry at me for trying to inform you and maybe we could have a grown up conversation about how mediocre Enermax and most of their stuff actually is

Like this one just to name one if you can actually be bothered to read any of it
Why you should not buy an Enermax Revolution XT

Everything you said so far about Enermax make you sound like a fanboy not willing to listen to any form of criticism or new information
You are the one that has no idea what he is talking about

Last as for the power draw stated by Sapphire as i said before its been purposely been way overstated to cover their own butts which means what they say is not what it does in real life
You did not seem willing to listen to that either so why i even bother responding to your last post is beyond me

Edit: You are not helping darxider and as he already tried telling you multiple times a video card does not draw its max wattage when he is at the desktop and playing an MP3 file.
Edited by shilka - 8/17/16 at 9:43am
Seravee
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Seravee
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post #16 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by darxider View Post

yes, i have all the codes and the conditions surrounding them (before the BSoD and after looking at Event Viewer) written up real good in a Google Document. it is shared here in case it could be of help. believe me, i have seen many different codes, mostly unrelated to each other, and i have Google'd each one for a long time. either it's that i am not looking at the correct information/code/website or that there is no pattern behind them (to my eyes, at least).

i'm not sure how a RAM module could be bad but would not show on all different memory tests that i've done with three different programs in different settings and would pass all AIDA and Prime95 benchmarks and stress tests. is that something that could actually happen? i am really curious to know.

I read through your linked file - it appears you're getting a lot of hard drive related errors. Have you installed software like Crystal Disk Info to check those out?

Is your operating system still the one you upgraded from Windows 7 to 8 to 10, as opposed to a fresh install?

On a side note: I really thought clicking on footyroom.com was going to take me to a very different website. tongue.gif
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post #17 of 22
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by technodanvan View Post

I read through your linked file - it appears you're getting a lot of hard drive related errors. Have you installed software like Crystal Disk Info to check those out?

Is your operating system still the one you upgraded from Windows 7 to 8 to 10, as opposed to a fresh install?

On a side note: I really thought clicking on footyroom.com was going to take me to a very different website. tongue.gif

yes, i have some hard drive related errors. as far as i can remember, most of them happened around a certain time last year. i did check my SSD and HDD with HD Tune which didn't show any errors. i will do it again when i'm retesting the RAM this weekend. all my Windows install were clean installs. i wanted to minimize any potential interference, so i just wiped everything and reinstalled.

yes, i don't have cable and i need to watch game highlights smile.gif
post #18 of 22
Thread Starter 
i want to report the results of the tests that i did:

1) i used HD Tune to test the hard drives using its Error Scan test. the Plextor SSD passed the test without errors, and i went ahead with testing my 1TB WD Red drive. during this test, at around 30% or so, i started HCI MemTest to test the memory as well (i know, i know, i should do tests one by one), and all of a sudden, i was greeted with another BSoD.

2) i used the newest version of MemTest86 (7.1, released on August 5, 2016) and tested the two 8GB modules together. 4 passes (for a total of 5 hours) of the test gave 0 errors, except for a warning about potentially being susceptible to the Row Hammer Test (Test 13).

3) i then used HCI MemTest from within Windows 10 to test the two modules together again, making sure i am allocating as much memory possible for test without using swap. the test ran for more than 48 hours without any error, but in the third day, i woke up to a computer that had rebooted to recovered from another BSoD.

the two new BSoDs above were different and were similar to the many that i have reported in my Google Doc. i have now removed one of the RAM modules and am testing a single 8GB module using MemTest86, so far, with no errors. i am planning to rotate the modules in both banks in the motherboard to make sure things are okay (or not!).

is there a specific program to test the hard drive(s) outside Windows?

i would appreciate any hints/tips/helps...
post #19 of 22
I still think it's the memory - or at least maybe the memory settings your motherboard defaults to may be incorrect. redface.gif

That said, if you have another computer or laptop running Windows you could always use an external USB hard drive bay and run the same tests to ensure the drive itself is fine. I use this one, seem alright. I believe there are more affordable variants as well. They're cheap, but sure are handy when you need them..

I always use CrystalDiskInfo as it shows the thresholds for failure. SMART and such may say the drive 'passes' if you don't reach a certain threshold, but this will show how close you're getting. I never much cared for the SMART scales, but this seems to be the most useful way of reading it.

The hard drive manufacturer should also have a program for evaluating the drive. In this case, it's Western Digital Data Lifeguard Diagnostics. You can run the extended test there, it's been pretty good about identifying bad drives for me, and I've see quite a few as I've been purchasing old Raptor drives for a future project. The Western Digital Software website also lists "WD Drive Utilities" as a more recent software package. I just installed it but have no idea how well it works since it doesn't support the old Raptors. Might be worth your time though.

Edit: Nevermind, the WD Drive Utilities is for USB/Firewire storage products.
Edited by technodanvan - 8/29/16 at 5:54pm
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post #20 of 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFPS View Post

Your video card alone burns 300 watts. 300x12= 36 12volt amps. Please tell me your not driving your sig rig with one 450 PSU.

There is your problem. Sapphire recommends a minimum of 750 watts. Thats w/o overclocking. My self personally. I won't go with any less than 1000W > Enermax only. Enermax is one of the best you can buy.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202160&cm_re=Sapphire_Tri-X_290X-_-14-202-160-_-Product

HAHAHAHAH 1000 Watt PSU for a Single GPU system. Thanks for the lulz.

Seriously though, can I have some of what you are smoking.

RE: OPs question. I had the exact same behavior from a 3 year old Corsair HX series PSU. Turned out the PSU was finished. I replaced it with a weaker PSU (by 250 Watts) and the system has been going strong ever since. So before doing much else I guess go buy a power supply, unpack it carefully, test it out, and return it if the problem persists, at least you've ruled out the PSU as the issue biggrin.gif
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