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First Custom Loop: Routing Feedback? - Page 2

post #11 of 27
Submerge in mineral oil... j/k

Looks functional. If you really want to fit that last fan on the top radiator you might be able to swap the 45 and straight fitting on the radiator, and use a little bit longer tube from the radiator to the cpu to make a sweeping 90 degree tube bend. Although, after looking at it a fourth time, it looks as though the 45 would get in the way regardless.

Your cable management is actually really clean. So what you don't have sleeved cables. Like you said, its covered up anyways.

That is a huge front rad. Did you have a thinner rad before that wasn't working for you? Do you have fans in the front of it for a push/pull setup?
post #12 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by STIguy312 View Post

Looks functional.

Lol, why does that sound back handed tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by STIguy312 View Post

If you really want to fit that last fan on the top radiator you might be able to swap the 45 and straight fitting on the radiator, and use a little bit longer tube from the radiator to the cpu to make a sweeping 90 degree tube bend. Although, after looking at it a fourth time, it looks as though the 45 would get in the way regardless.

The fan will fit, no problem. I'm just leaving it for the end, because my Sasquatch hands can't get in there and tighten the compression fittings if the fan is in place. I am going to take a mm or two off the edge of the fan with my Dremel though, just to make sure it doeskin put pressure on the fitting and cause it to leak over time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by STIguy312 View Post

Your cable management is actually really clean. So what you don't have sleeved cables. Like you said, its covered up anyways.

Lol, I take pride in m y cable management and all, but in this case there's a reason for that. The cables aren't in yet. I pulled everything out to install the loop parts, and will do the cable management last. It shouldn't look VERY different from now, but there will be a small difference. The fact that I have no drives other than my PCIe SSD helps with the clutter factor too.

Won't be a complete stroll in the park though, what with 9 fans to tie in.

Quote:
Originally Posted by STIguy312 View Post

That is a huge front rad. Did you have a thinner rad before that wasn't working for you? Do you have fans in the front of it for a push/pull setup?

Yeah, it's the Alphacool Monsta 280. 86mm thick. Top is a 45mm thick Alphacool 420 radiator in push only. I did go with push-pull on the thick rad, just to help get the air through it. The front two fans are hidden by the case bezel.

Prior to this build I was using AIO coolers. I had a Corsair H110i GTX up top, and two H90's in the front attached to my two 980ti's using HG10 N980 brackets. I decided to intentionally go overkill on the radiators in order to try to keep fan speeds low.

Appreciate the feedback. I'll be sure to post better pics when it's done. This pic was just for help judging the tube routing on an incomplete system tongue.gif
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post #13 of 27
Looks good. One thing I would say about that front radiator - make sure you bleed it well.

Radiator plenums (the tank bits at the ends) can trap a lot of air, especially when the ports are at the bottom as you have it. This in turn reduces their heat transfer capabilities and can also have a huge impact on flow rates. That particular radiator has a bleed port at the top, opening it will help slightly (be careful not to spray coolant everywhere!). Other than that just be very thorough when it comes to bleeding your loop.
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post #14 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlach View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

This is wrong! You want positive pressure and that ambient air to cool those rads! One exhaust fan in the rear is enough, and the warm case air will find its way out of every crack and crevice in the case. Heat rising means nothing when it is pushed by force. Turn those fans around imo!

This is certainly the conventional approach, but I have never actually seen any evidence supporting it.

I think the argument in favor of pulling air in, vs pushing it out has always been based on the following two arguments:

1.) "Air is cooler outside the case, so you'll get better performance if you pull cool air from the outside through your radiator."

This is typically true, but I have water blocks on my hottest components blowing all the heat outside and have decent airflow, so the air inside the case shouldn't really be much warmer than the air outside the case. I mean, I don't have any spinning hard drives, just one SSD. The PSU takes care of itself with its own fan. The only heat I should have inside the case is chipset, SSD and RAM, and that is very limited compared to CPU and GPU.

2.) "It's easier to control dust when you control where the air enters the case, because you can put a filter there. In a negative pressure system, air enters wherever there is a crack or crevice, so you can't control dust."

This is true, but I have been running this way for a year with two Corsair H90's (one connected to each of my 980ti's) blowing out the front, and my Corsair H110i GTX glowing out the top, and I haven't had a dust problem. While my case looks dusty under flash photography in some of the pictures above, in person you can't see if, even if running a finger through it. Maybe I just have a clean house?

From a strict airflow perspective the optimal would be to neither have positive nor negative flow, but to balance the intake and exhaust such that they are equal, and thus you have neutral pressure. Most case designs make this tricky if you water cool though.

Either way, if there is some really compelling evidence that I am wrong, and intake is definitely the way to go, I might switch things around, but it would involve taking the front radiator out to rotate the fans, and that would involve taking the reservoir out to reach everything, so I'm not sure I want to at this point.

I personally could care less about dust, I want the best temps I can get. My evidence is my personal experience, out of the several loops I have done in different cases I always tried my fans both ways to be sure and always got the best CPU and GPU temps with both rads as intake. Blowing warm case air over a radiator pretty much negates the radiator, UNLESS you have so much rad space that you reach diminishing returns, which you could very well have with that Monsta.

I also could care less about my case temp, I'm not concerned with cooling the inside of my case I'm concerned with keeping my actual chips that produce the most heat cool. My case/mobo/system temp can be as much as +10c delta to my ambient temps even at idle sometimes, but the idle CPU and GPU temps are pretty much at ambient which is the best you can get using passive radiators and fans. I agree you should always try every fan scenerio because every case is different even the same case will have different components and always has an error margin. Part of successfully creating a well performing loop is either try to figure up all the scientific data and put it all together to calculate exactly how your loop will perform, or spend a day trying each scenerio. Personally my brain has too much in it already to calculate, so I lock myself upstairs not be bothered for the day and try it all before I do a final buttoning up of my builds.

Remember you will have to live with the final product for a while so the extra effort to explore all options now with testing is the best course of action imo.
 
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post #15 of 27
Thread Starter 
Leak testing time!



So, I was going back and forth between using the Primochill Sysprep to clean the loop before putting my real coolant in. In the end I decided to do it. I figured I got it free, I had it already, I might as well use it.

So I filled it up, which - by the way - was a huge pain. This XSPC reservoir is a bit poorly designed. It only has one opening up top, so if you - like me - attach a fitting, a tube and stick a funnel in it to fill it, there is nowhere for the air to go, so you have to massage the tube to get the water into the reservoir. Opening my vent port at the top of the case didn't help at all, because the inlet to the reservoir is at the bottom.

Anyway, once filled and running I had a slow leak from the 90 degree bed coming off of the pump. Looks like water was slowly dripping out from the swivel seam on the thing.

Turns out that getting water out of the loop is trickier than I thought. It started alright. I put a bowl under it, opened the drain port in the bottom, had a trickle, screwed in a tube with a fitting and stuck the tube in an empty jug to save the fluid, and opened the vent port up top, and it all flowed out. Or so I thought. Turns out when I took the bend off the front of the pump there was apparently still a lot of water in there. Wound up drenching my bottom fan, but nothing was on at the time, so I'm thinking it will still work OK once it dries. Would appreciate any suggestions on how to properly drain a loop so I know everything comes out and I don't make a mess!

Luckily I had a spare 90 degree bend and fitting, so I replaced the bend and the compression fitting just for good measure, refilled it (squeezing the tubing all the way) and now it's been up and running for hours without any leaks (Yay!)

I've noticed a high pitched noise coming from my D5 pump. I'm hoping it's only because there is still air in there and it might subside with time, or that once I put the lids back on the case I won't be able to hear it anymore. High pitched noises are a huge pet peeve of mine. I also hope it isn't an indicator of a bad pump. Would appreciate your thoughts on this.
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post #16 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlach View Post

I've noticed a high pitched noise coming from my D5 pump. I'm hoping it's only because there is still air in there and it might subside with time, or that once I put the lids back on the case I won't be able to hear it anymore. High pitched noises are a huge pet peeve of mine. I also hope it isn't an indicator of a bad pump. Would appreciate your thoughts on this.

2 drops of liquid soap (dishwasher) will take care of the trapped air
they recommend Dawn, but in reality any brand works.
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post #17 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllGamer View Post

2 drops of liquid soap (dishwasher) will take care of the trapped air
they recommend Dawn, but in reality any brand works.

Yeah, my final coolant, once I put it in has a surfactant in it, so that should help!
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post #18 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radnad View Post

Make a PSU cover or get sleeved cables, mustard and ketchup is so 90's.

Well, this is an "all go, don't care about the show" type of build.

I wouldn't mind sleeved PSU cables, but I'm not about to pull pins out of connectors and sleeve them. That's just too damned tedious for the inside of a computer that I'm never going to look at.

The PSU is a good one, even though it's a few years old. (it was an almost $300 PSU back in 2011 when I bought it). It has some basic black sleeving on it, just not on the last 2-3" on each side, unfortunately.
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post #19 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattlach View Post


I wouldn't mind sleeved PSU cables, but I'm not about to pull pins out of connectors and sleeve them. That's just too damned tedious for the inside of a computer that I'm never going to look at.

There's the lazy way to sleeve the cables, just wrap the entire bunch up into a nice sleeve, and use the heat shrink to cover the ends wink.gif (use the heat shrink to wrap a bit of the connector)
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post #20 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllGamer View Post

There's the lazy way to sleeve the cables, just wrap the entire bunch up into a nice sleeve, and use the heat shrink to cover the ends wink.gif (use the heat shrink to wrap a bit of the connector)

Hmm. I'd still have to get the heat shrink over the connector. Especially with the 24pin motherboard connector this might be difficult. I've never seen heat shrink sleeving with that big of a ratio between unshrunk and shrunk sizes.

What kind of heatshrink tubing do you use for this?
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2x Supermicro SNK-P0040AP4 92mm heatsink/fan 3x 120mm gentle Typhoon case fans Proxmox (Debian based KVM distribution) Norco RPC-4216 
OtherOther
2x LSI 9211-8i SAS Controllers Intel PRO/1000 PT Quad Port Gigabit Ethernet 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Celeron G1840 Supermicro X10SLV GeForce GT 720 4GB DDR3-1600 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung SSD 750 120GB Rosewill RCX-Z775-LP 80mm low profile cooler SilenX EFX-08-12 80mm Effizio Quiet Case Fan Ubuntu 16.04LTS Server Edition 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
TV's Logitech K400 Keyboard/Touchpad picoPSU-80 power kit Antec ISK 300-150 
MouseAudioOther
Logitech K400 Keyboard/Touchpad Nvidia audio on video card using HDMI out Windows MCE Remote control (HP) 
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