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First time overclocking, new build! Questions about FX 8320E

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
Hello,
this is a followup from my previous topic: http://www.overclock.net/t/1607874/new-to-overclocking-picking-8320e-or-6300

This is my first time overclocking at all, so I am asking for some opinions and guidelines...

I got the 8320E, 970A-UD3P and Arctic A32 in the end... right now everything is on stock settings.

Here is a screenshot of CPU-Z and HWMonitor as I am downloading a couple of applications:



I notice the core speed often throttles back to 1.4 GHz, is that normal and caused by cool 'n quiet?

This is during intel burn test:



This is during the heaviest CPU-bound gaming scenario I could think of, World of Warcraft broken shore scenario (34 players on the same boss).



On a side note, I must say I am pretty impressed by the stock CPU!

WoW is supposed to be an heavily single threaded, CPU-bound game, this thing is already handling it like a champ with a bunch of other programs running.


I want to ask:

- How are my temps? How can I tell if I won the silicon lottery?
- I want to overclock to 4 GHz straight away, if I understood correctly I can keep stock voltage and bump multiplier to 20.
Besides turbo core, what other features should I disable? (C6 (?) state, APM, etc...)

Thanks a lot. thumb.gif
Edited by Ferd - 8/19/16 at 2:47pm
post #2 of 25
Here's a real good place for the basics even though you're on a Giga http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard

Disable ALL power saving features. Yes you are seeing C&Q at work. You are talking at idle correct?

Here is the proper version of IBT AVX http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
The version running above is the non AVX version. Easy to see the differences in GFlops when running AVX version Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

You haven't posted a test running long enough to answer about temps.
Be careful, watch your temps closely and work your way up to 10 runs set to Very High at stock settings to get a base line to work from.
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post #3 of 25
Thread Starter 
Did a IBT AVX run:

During:



Just after:



One thing that I don't understand is why, even at 100% load, the cores remained at 3.2-3.5 GHz 99% of the time...
post #4 of 25
Are you running the latest Bios?
APM Disabled?

Can you post SS of current Bios settings (all)? Need more info here as to where you're at currently and snips save a lot of text.

Looks like throttling to me but I cannot keep up with which Giga mobos have a history of Bios issues with premature VRM throttling (I do believe this is one of them) but honestly I can't say for sure. Hopefully another member with more Giga knowledge will chime in here.

+12v value is way off, is there any other values we can't see that could be the real +12v value? Which PSU are you running?
You might also try DLing HWInfo64 to monitor with. More complete than HWmonitor IMHO.
Edited by The Sandman - 8/20/16 at 8:39am
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post #5 of 25
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the reply! thumb.gif

My PSU is the new Corsair CX 550M (basically a rename of the Corsair Vengeance)

I flashed the latest BIOS (FC) and ran IBT with these settings (voltage set to AUTO):







Results with IBT running in background:





I also tried to bump the CPU frequency to 4.0 GHz with default voltage, but threw a blue screen at boot.
Tried to bump voltage to 1.3V but I was just having trouble at boot.

Will not attempt any more experiments until I hear back from you rolleyes.gif
post #6 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferd View Post


One thing that I don't understand is why, even at 100% load, the cores remained at 3.2-3.5 GHz 99% of the time...

Turbo is a finicky thing. It will only boost into the max turbo under stock settings when a portion of your cores is in need of a boost, AND the non boosted cores are idle.

In other words almost never. Usually you will top out at the max non turbo p-state that gives you 3.5ghz to all cores...the 4.0ghz turbo will only boost i think 4 cores and it never seems to do it long enough in most work loads to matter.

Your best bet is to lock in stock voltage which iirc is 1.275v and set all 8 cores to 4.0ghz...no turbo nonpower saving features. I ran my 8320e like this for 6 months with zero issues before finally OCing it up to 4.5GHz which is my current 24/7 setup.

C&Q will indeed drop your cores to 1.4ghz and ~0.90v when the system is idle. The only real advanatge if your temps are undercontrol as they should be to using it is it saves power and costs less to run your rig 24/7 due long idle times pulling significantly less power. If you turn your PC off regularly and only have it on while gaming C&Q is mostly moot. The temp savings at idle are negligable and likely unneeded. It provides nothing in terms of savings when under load and i do detect very slight performace drops in bemchmarks with it enabled vs not.
Edited by gapottberg - 8/20/16 at 9:50am
post #7 of 25
Thread Starter 
Alright,
I followed the advice above, and used the following settings:

  • CPU frequency at 4.0 GHz
  • Voltage 1.275V
  • APM, C6 state and Turbo disabled
  • CnQ enabled (I tend to leave my system idle)


Here are BIOS screenshots:





System passed 10 rounds of IBT AVX Very High. Here are temps from last round and final results:







How are things looking? Should I be worried about those VRM temps? rolleyes.gif

I'd probably be happy with 4.0 GHz and fine tune it, unless you think I can push higher with the same voltage...

Where do I go from here? Thanks for your help so far thumb.gif
post #8 of 25
VR T1 and VR T2 temps would concern me. You'll want to research if these are actual VRM temp sensor readings.
I would definitely add active cooling to the VRM and CPU Socket area regardless.
An old case fan works great and even the stock HS fan helps. Getto rig with zip ties and see what it can do to help.
There's a pic in my rigs pics below.

Now if stability is important to you you'll want to continue testing. Once you've reached your goal
I test till I can pass 20 runs set to Maximum (IBT AVX) than move onto Prime95 for a 24 hr run.

So far things don't look too bad other than VR T1 and 2.
You'll find that the fewer items left on auto the better off the OC will be (as you raise the clock).
I always start with VID values and go from there and for unknown values you can start by entering the value the Bios has entered already ( it's better than Auto) and continue testing.
You've just had your first taste of what "Auto" settings can do, and not do for you above.
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post #9 of 25
Thread Starter 
It seems that those temps are indeed correct... I still have the stock cooler, will try to ghetto rig to the VRM area once I manage to get a bit more decent cable management rolleyes.gif

I'd like stability and lower those temps a wee bit if possible... found this table from 8320E review:



On my motherboard it should be possible to try lower the voltage to at least 1.25V and that would help a bit, correct?
As I understand, it is important to find lowest voltage possible for current overclock...

What settings do you suggest I should begin to fine tune from 'auto', could you give me a safe value example?

Ferd out thumb.gif
post #10 of 25
Your milage will vary greatly from board to board and chip to chip as far as what voltages are useable for 24/7 use.

I too used that table to find ballpark numbers to shoot for, but every set up will vary. The most important numbers to consider are not so much your actual BIOS setting voltage but what you run on average over 10 min at idle...and what your lowest value is during 10 min of full load while stress testing.

The second one in perticular will be directly related to the min you must maintain for full stability. Things like voltage off sets and LLC can all greatly affect what values ate displayed while your system is in use...Vs what you bios says its locked at. Thats why its imperative to find good monitoring software and do thourgh stress testing.
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