Originally Posted by KGPrime
Ill try to make this to short and to the point, something i am practically incapable of doing
You should be able to get acceptable color out of this panel without too much effort, actually it is already good out of the box and anything around 3 or less Delta is perfectly fine for pc gaming or anything else. Albeit it may be slightly less "saturated" than say your TV because of the gamma. But it's color range is better than most older Tns or even cheap e Ips panels.
A calibrator is preferred, No doubt. But you do not need
one to get acceptable and decent color unless a monitor is absolutely abysmal out of the box. This one is not, at least mine isn't....
A calibrator does all this stuff when calibrating as well as fine tunes each 16 million colors. We are not "fixing" individual colors since there's no way you can without one. But, again not really necessary in general to have an excellent image and color on this monitor overall. The gamma is really what needs a little work.
So if we are doing this by eye, first you have to understand the difference between Brightness, or "Black Point" or sometimes refereed to as white point., and Gamma and Contrast.
You can have a low brightness and therefor a good black point also have the image not seem "dull" at all.
Gamma affects the brightness of the midrange of color and "saturation" most.
Brightness affects everything equally.
Contrast obviously is the difference between black and white or dark an light.
You want all three in harmony.
The RGB sliders in your OSD mostly affect Color Temperature, or that's how you want to think of it. And should only be used sparingly. So if your whites are greenish, lower your green or raise your blue and red ect, in general. But lowering or raising RGB in your OSD is not for "fixing" your colors per se. It's just more for getting your whites either pure white, or cooler or warmer. And you should only have to touch them for that purpose and in very small amounts 1% 2%.
I found no benefit or need to lower Contrast at all. I had no white3 clipping or any issues at default. Lowering it only lowers the already low contrast and as a side affect makes the image look more flat and dull, probably making you thin you need to raidse brightness thereby ruining your black point. I recommend leave it at 75.
I personally use Quick Gamma with great result. I also use Lagoms downloadable Non sRGB embedded Red Green Blue Gamma test image as it's easier to read than the one in Quick Gamma, even though it's actually the same image made by the same person the lagom one is bigger and easier to see and use.
So i just work with that and as it turned out each channel individually. till i finally A. Accepted around gamma 2.1 was fine. ( Photog and print used to use gamma 1.8, to see darker detail better, but that would be considered too washed out for media and gaming.) And B. Took into account i could get the 2.2 look by using horizontal viewing angle to my advantage, IE: Titling the panel back about 1 degree back and raising it up slightly than i normally would. ) And so when you lean back into game mode in your chair, if you do, lowering your eye angle slightly it actually brings the gamma to closer to 2.2, and also helps mask any residual banding or compression artifacts in images or games that is there in the source. ( it's a fine balance and when you find it it still looks good sitting back or sitting up straight ) When i'm in photoshop i sit straight up as to see all darker detail better.
Once i achieved around 2.1 on all three channels equally ( blue is hardest to do ) it may create a white point color cast, Open a white screen to check for like slightly blue or warm overall or greenish whites. THEN i lower Red Green or Blue in the OSD a notch or two to equal out my White Point.
After i was done with my gamma channels I had a cool almost grennish tint to my white point, so i then dropped green and blue down to 98% from 100%.So basically in a nut shell
The OSD settings should all be at 100% when you work on your gamma.
It's likely you will have to work on your gamma RGB channels independent of each other. On CRT monitors this would sometimes be a setting called "Gain". Red Green or Blue channel "Gain".
After you get that you will may have a color tint or "white point" tint. If so then use your OSD to bring it back to White. It should be only slight ammount an not effect your overall RGB color. You can use a swatch to check them.
You should also have no banding in any of the gradients i've posted for the most part. I still have the slightest almost unnoticeable amount in my green gradient.
The lower range closest to black stepping you might notice in the black to white cannot be "fixed" perfectly i do not believe, but it;s pretty good overall and it will be the same with the red green and blue gradients.
Rest your eyes occasionally while doing this. Staring at a blue swatch and then immediately trying to check your whites you are going to see blue
for a second. And your eyes will bug out of you dolt rest them.
When i think about it you can probably use NVCP and individually adjust your RGB channels. I suspect Quick Gamma with the test patters and the Lagom Non sRGB Embedded Gamma test image is much better and easier to use.Make sure all test images and or Quick Gamma is located on your screen as centrally as possible.
It takes some time to get it right.
Digital Vibrancy raises the gamma and saturation all at once and ruins all calibration across the board. But may look pleasing to some people to turn on in some games, like fighting games/cartoony games ect. But overall is not needed.
And finally you get used to the new thing you use frequently quickly. Be it Monitors, new shoes, or a new car. And all of a sudden it's is the old comfortable thing and the old old thing looks or feels weird.