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Fell into some money, decided to go for a real loop. Double check me before I check out?

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Fell into a couple grand recently and decided if I put half of it away I can splurge with the rest. A proper custom loop comes to mind as the best splurge. As it's pretty much my first time ever doing anything even close to plumbing related in my life, I decided to just throw money at the problem to simplify it as much as possible. Is there anything in the below list that is blatantly wrong, or cause me problems? As near as I can tell I'm not mixing metals and I would rather have the ugly rubber tubing to reduce maintenance needs and avoid any plastic degradation.

I already have 4x Noctua 140mm NF-A14 2000 Industrials for the rads. I know at lower speeds they are not that great, but at 90% speed they provide ~4mm h2o pressure and good CFMs, and I really don't mind how loud they are even at 1800 rpm, just looking for raw performance really.



Am I way over doing it? The other option is to seriously simplify it and go;

EK-XLC Predator 360 (incl. QDC)
EK-FC Titan X Pascal - Nickel
Service Fee - Predator PRE-FILL
EK-XLC Predator 360 Push-Pull Add-On

Which would be considerably cheaper at $460 and ridiculously idiot-proof. Would a single 360 rad in push/pull with decent fans be sufficient for ~400 watts of input? I know 400W is very low really, but my 6700k is kinda crappy, so I'm looking to overkill it a little and the Titan XP hits power limit, so the colder I can keep it, the less voltage leakage and the more core clock it'll run before hitting power limit.

The money came out of no-where, so the ~$240 difference in price isn't a big deal to me, but for a complete novice in plumbing, is the first option too much to tackle for a first timer? I'm concerned the pump on the EX-XLC is way too little for both a CPU and GPU block. I feel like the difference between a 6W pump and a 20W+ pump has to be substantial. If the latter is way overpowered, I can always run it at 80% power to get more longevity from the part and still be nearly triple the power.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
post #2 of 11
Double check if your gpu block comes with 2 stop fittings. Otherwise it looks good. I would get a drain valve and a reservoir too. I don't know how ur gonna flush the air out of the system without one in the loop. Might as well get either 10in-30in fan extension or a 4-10 port fan port header if you wanna upgrade to push+pull on both radiators. I would order anther 3m of tube even if your total tube length is less than 3m. Just in case of future breakage/cracks etc...but that's just me.

But yea 300 bucks just for 2 rads and a pump. Also so close to the 300-500 dollar chiller territory. If I've known how much i'd spend on w/c I shoulda went chiller right away.
Edited by rtikphox - 8/28/16 at 5:44am
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post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
You gotta translate that a little for me please. Stop fittings mean what exactly? Do I need two fittings I'm putting the tubing into and two more for the other side just as plugs? I am starting at essentially zero knowledge and trying to catch up quickly.

I don't understand your second point either. If I wanted to do push/pull on those rads, why would I need any further parts? I wasn't really seeing the need since the 4 Noctua fans I have are pretty high performance and I don't mind the noise when running them at high RPMs. Still, I'd like to understand what you mean just as an FYI.
post #4 of 11
4 fans means those radiators will be either push or pull (2 fans per radiator). With 8 fans u will get 4 fans per radiator (2 push/+ 2 pull on the 280). But yea I guess those are enough as 4 more fans will only net you 1-2 degrees C. Most GPU blocks does come with spot plug fittings, I'm 95% sure u do have 2 stock that comes with the GPU block not 100% sure. Here's why you need them.
https://j.gifs.com/pYv5OX.gif



Here's a better example:



Also no reservoir in your loop, so are you gonna buy a quick disconnect? or a T-line to fill up your loop? I don't know how ur gonna do it.
Edited by rtikphox - 8/28/16 at 6:22am
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post #5 of 11
Your block will come with stop plugs so don't worry about that. Also there's no need for an extra allen key, you'll get those with the blocks. I have a box full of stop fittings and allen keys lol

You might want to get an extra bottle of coolant though, just in case.
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post #6 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtikphox View Post



Also no reservoir in your loop, so are you gonna buy a quick disconnect? or a T-line to fill up your loop? I don't know how ur gonna do it.

The pump he has listed, is a Pump/Res combo.
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post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rtikphox View Post

Also no reservoir in your loop, so are you gonna buy a quick disconnect? or a T-line to fill up your loop? I don't know how ur gonna do it.

The 5.25" dock part is a pump + reservoir. I would have to pull my HDD cage to properly mount a tube reservoir so I felt this was the cleanest option available to me to have my cake and eat it too. I didn't even bother ever putting a disk player in this rig, so I have 3 open 5.25" docks if I need to spill over for any clearance issues on the tubing it's no big deal.

750D, so I'd mount a rad in front and pull with 2 fans, and a rad on top pushing out with 2 fans. I'd have to pull one of the HDD cages to clear the bottom in the front, but the second will still fit. I'd have to remove my intake fan up from the bottom, which is fine, since everything will be on water I don't need nearly the airflow.
post #8 of 11
What case are your using and how much you plan on overclocking? Those questions have implications on how much rad space you can have/need.

Bay reservoirs are notorious to be difficult to fill and bleed, that's why you hardly see them anymore. Maybe if you post a pic of your case we can help get creative and find a way to get a tube res/pump in there. If you can figure that out then you might want to look at getting a kit and then adding the GPU block, fittings, and extra radiator. This might help save a little money. (I'm not sure a 360 would be enough, but it depends on your OC. That Titan XP has a 250 watt TDP alone!)

If your concerned about aesthetics then I would consider some 45 and 90 elbows. That ZMT looks incredible when you can get good straight runs with it instead of bends.
 
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post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
I have a 750D. The kit's don't seem to offer me much beyond what my cart above gets me, tbh. I also already have 4 best-in-class fans and have tons of mid-tier fans on the shelf unused atm, so I feel like a kit just gets me even more hardware unused. This goes triple because the EKWB kits don't have a 140/280/420mm rad option available.

The case supports a 280mm rad in the front. I'm going to use fans in pull mode there just for easier installation, but the thick rad is going to mean I can't use the HDD cages in the first slot. So that means the second slot up against my PSU will be all I have left. I plan on having a 120mm intake fan up from the bottom here as well to increase positive pressure a bit to improve dust situation.

That means that whole area where a cylindrical res and pump assembly would go is taken. I could try to suspend it somehow, but I feel like a bay res/pump combo would be cleaner and vastly more secure. Given how all 3 of my 5.25" bays are vacant atm, filling shouldn't be nearly as difficult. I'll open the top two wide open and install in the lowest one. I'll be able to fill from the outside quite easily with like a 5x8 inch hole to work with. I can get both hands in there with room to work around in.

Elbows I feel like are luxury items that I'll acquire after I get some hands on experience if I feel they will improve the situation. I should have enough room and have way overbought the tubing I need to give myself as much flexibility as possible being my first loop.
post #10 of 11
Hi,

I'll just add something if I can, I like the big tubing 1/2"-3/4" (or 19-13)
I see your going with something smaller, but equally thick (3mm), so that sounds great.

I'm just saying I once tried 1/2"-5/8", and the wall thickness was so thin the tube would kink upon anything more than a slight bend.
So if I were you, stick with what you have or go to the larger 1/2"-3/4", its all about aesthetics really.

And another point, there's a couple of issues with bayres's
I had one once, and it was a pain to fill, cause I had to pull it forward out of the case, which would stretch the tubes a bit.
Also, getting your fingers in attach / remove the fittings on the bayres was really awkward.
But the main point is that you have very little option in controlling vibration from the pump.
It may not be a problem, but you might have these irritating rattles that come and go, or never go.
If you put your pump at the bottom of your case, you can always sit it on top of foam, or do what you need to do prevent vibration noise.

I know you have a 750D, so the space is tight, but there might be a way. I've done it in my 800D case, as you can see in the pic:
My system is a bit mad looking right now, I'm working on a way to watercool the GTX1060 if you were wondering.



Also,

I notice you're looking at the DDC 3.2 pump.
I don't really know anything about this pump, but I think most professional watercoolers (and myself) go for the D5 pump.
Its more powerful, probably quieter and cooler too. And you can vary the speed of it at the back, which is useful for bleeding the air out.

Theres some discussion about it here:
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18648029
Edited by colin-java - 8/30/16 at 6:00pm
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