Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X | Borosilicate Glass Tubing
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X | Borosilicate Glass Tubing - Page 77

post #761 of 804
Thread Starter 


Original plan was to curve the glass & have it enter the reservoirs. This looks better in my opinion. Which also allows me to save my last long curved glass for MonoBlock to to radiator run.





The Next Segment of the Loop, The glass needed to be trimmed a bit. I did cut it longer on purpose just in case I had to make any changes which would increase the tubing length.





The valve for the bottom which will likely connect to a QDC then to tubing for draining. Originally I had no plans to put wheels on the case, I couldn't get my hand under my case to drain the loop. This seem like the method to increase the bottom height.




Most of the wiring for AquaComputer has been connected, I need to create a few USB cables. I ran out of 22 AWG wiring, waiting on some more wiring to arrive from mouser. Then once everything is connected I can start to clean everything up.




Having issues with the vision blocks. the wiring they create is a mess, there no way to have the wire exit to left, it has to exit to the right. On top of that the tubing was not 100% stable, meaning it was a bit loose. I'll try to play around with out ways to run the tubing. So far not having any luck.
post #762 of 804
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

It was installed to make filling the system much easier. There also an idea I'm playing around with (not 100% it will work or not yet). The reservoir will change color as the temperature changes. I'm not sure how well it will work with blue coolant.

Interesting. Could you elaborate on this "filling" part? I like how the aquatube looks (esp. with LEDs) and I need a reason to include it in my loop smile.gif But wouldn't it be easier to use the multiport feature of the SR-2 and fill the loop directly through top port on the top rad? At least that's what I do with my STH10 build and it works fine.
post #763 of 804
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shiokarai View Post

Interesting. Could you elaborate on this "filling" part? I like how the aquatube looks (esp. with LEDs) and I need a reason to include it in my loop smile.gif But wouldn't it be easier to use the multiport feature of the SR-2 and fill the loop directly through top port on the top rad? At least that's what I do with my STH10 build and it works fine.

Both SR-2 top ports are already in use. Two are connected for the loop & the other two have manually exhaust function to allow the system bleed easier.




Right tube, Which is installed as the fill port tubing (Still 100% all Glass)





The very top inlet is the fill port, which will pour into the the reservoir.




Fill Port fitting from the outside, which can be opened with an Allen wrench.



Light fittings, One is basic LED stop plug & the other is a Glow stick type LED plug fitting.

Side Note, Not all LED plugs are the same. Some do have issues getting 5mm inside the designed hole(Cough EK Cough).
post #764 of 804
Great explanation, thanks! thumb.gif
post #765 of 804
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shiokarai View Post

Great explanation, thanks! thumb.gif

No Problem, Plus the res has a jet stream as well with the added pipe.
post #766 of 804
Thread Starter 



All motherboard parts are connected. Flow regarding Motherboard: Radiator One Front 560 -> SLI Block -> GPU -> MonoBlock -> Radiator Two Front 420.




This was a PIA to hook-up. It's only PIA due to limited space below the L fitting, You can't put any kind of force on the glass if you do the glass will crack. Unfortunately I had to use pliers to screw the one fitting in. I tried to get a hold of some rubber tip pliers, No hardware store sells them. I could not get any kind of grip on the fitting between case top & the radiator with just using my fingers. I was forced to use pliers which caused the fitting to be scratched up. Thankfully that fitting will not be seen once the cover is placed on the case.



These are the manually exhaust fitting. I used Barrow fitting instead of Bitspower, They just looked better.





Not sure what to go with here, This will connect the dual Reservoirs with my dual pumps. It's bit harder to get the curved glass into one fitting, since it has to be insert inside the case with all the hardware already installed

With the 90 Degree fitting, it gives you a wider bend compared to 90 degree bent glass.

*Side-Note* this is the final run, once connected all the tubing will be 100% connected throughout the case.
post #767 of 804
I would use 90 deg bent piece -> 90 rotary you got there + fittings attached would look busy, esp. in this part of the loop; also those 90's from bitspower seems somehow smallish with 16mm OD fittings attached (that's why I've used a lot of L-blocks from bitspower - they're much bigger, fittings looks more natural with them)
post #768 of 804
Thread Starter 




The Reservoir to pumps is now complete.




This was a bit tricky due to the fitting kept shifting around when I tried to screw the fitting in. I just ended up taking out the SLI block screw the fitting to it and they re-attaching the SLI to M.2 blocks.

----





The last bit to be connected, It's going to be using a 60 degree & 45 degree fittings at the two ends.






Cabling, the most PIA part of building a PC. Still have a bit to go until it looks clean.



I think I finally got my RGB switch function to work. Now I need to figure out how to get the RGB part to work. I spent the entire afternoon try to get it light up & nothing so far. Going to add resistors to all the poles to see if that helps.

From another companies Press Release:


" To use the RGB LED: Power the anode at 3-6V and light up the red, green, and blue LEDs by pulling their designated contacts to ground as you desire – there’s a built in resistor! If you want to use this with a higher voltage, say 12V or 24V, simply add a 1K ohm resistor in series with the LED cathodes to keep the LED current at around 20mA. You can PWM the RGB pins to make any color you like. "


Anyone using Aqua-Computer devices with USB:

Make sure your USB cables are all facing the correct way.

The USB hub is R__BB

AQ is R__BB
PA3 is BB__R
RGB Controller is: BB__R
Flow is: BB__R
Pump is: BB__R
post #769 of 804
Thread Starter 




All tubing is complete.





My Dual Drains

----

Now time to figure out what the best way to build my Raid-0 setup (in Bios or in Windows).
post #770 of 804
Thread Starter 
- USB 2.0 headers are PIA, they keep falling out from the device(Molex or the OEM version). I might just add another wire to my aquabus cables to create 4-pin version & I could do away with USB completely(Except for AQ6XT cable).
- For those asking. The C-Grid III is series that should be used when creating USB cables. You can use SL series as well, but you will be paying extra money for extra current which you will never use. C-Grid III is series that most motherboard makers use.






I removed the curved glass & went with pure straight tubing run. The old run from Radiator to reservoir felt a bit to loose for my liking. This run feels allot more tight. The flow meter is what causing a bit of the loose feel.




Also redoing some of my cabling, It was previously way to bulky for my liking. I just wish I could find some cable clips that I could screw to the surface. The glue/Velcro ones looks like there going to fall off at times.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Build Logs
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X | Borosilicate Glass Tubing