Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X - Page 55

post #541 of 587
I can't say I'm too much of a fan of that CPU block... but those LED fittings are very, very nice!

The only trick will be hiding all those leads... I mean they're decently sleeved in the pics, but to some extent that just makes them stand out more. In a largish loop you've got maybe 10-14 of those going all over the place... yikes. I get frustrated dealing with cable management as it is and those are required cables... but it does look slick.
post #542 of 587
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiGiCiDAL View Post

I can't say I'm too much of a fan of that CPU block... but those LED fittings are very, very nice!

The only trick will be hiding all those leads... I mean they're decently sleeved in the pics, but to some extent that just makes them stand out more. In a largish loop you've got maybe 10-14 of those going all over the place... yikes. I get frustrated dealing with cable management as it is and those are required cables... but it does look slick.

Not even looking at the CPU block, Since these are Promo pictures released by AlphaCool. These are not fittings, I did some reading up on it. It just slides over the tubing, instead of what ThermalCrap does which are fittings. With AlphaCool Method you get allot more LED's in a selected area. Plus UV is an option.

Where I'm thinking of placing them, I already have a bunch of wires for both the res & Vision blocks. It's unlikely cause much of a difference.
post #543 of 587
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by iamjanco View Post

Not the same, as I've purchased those from PPCS, who likely gets at least some of their connectors and pins from Moddiy. The link I sent you can be used to source availability at distros like Mouser, who sells the real McCoy with the longer wings.

Some have stated that Mod One also sells the real thing, while others have commented otherwise.If you're happy with what you received though, that's what counts. smile.gif

Nice new tubes and fittings, btw.

I have some from Moddiy & their completely different from what PPCS sell. From what I can tell PPCS sells two different versions. I can say without a doubt Mod-One is the real deal.

Moddiy does sell one version that is the real deal too.

I have yet to have any issue with anything obtained from Mod-One.
post #544 of 587
Thread Starter 




post #545 of 587
Thread Starter 
That didn't last long, all wire from Icemodz has been used(50ft). So far I've only done a single EPS cable & cut cable for motherboard ATX (24 Pin). Guess I'm going have to mix Mod-One & remain wire from Ice-modz for my GPU cables.
post #546 of 587
Thread Starter 







Started work on my ATX Cable, Going to be a very short run since my PSU is basically right next to ATX connector.
post #547 of 587
Thread Starter 
I keep messages about my Sleeving process & where I buy everything. I might as well highlight a few things while I'm currently doing my sleeving


Wire: 16AWG 2.4mm (This is thicker wire then what most place carry, I prefer it since it's easier to mold to how I want it). It can be obtained from Mod-One or Ice-modz. I haven't seen it anywhere else being sold. For 22AWG I only use MainFrameCustoms (Since it has a very thick threads & it's higher grade wiring compared to what you can buy at other places. You could also get ribbon style wiring for 22AWG (same that Corsair uses on their fans). It's very expensive compared to normal 22 AWG wire. 150 ft of normal wiring will cost 30 dollars, 150 feet or Ribbon wire will cost about 200 dollars.

Sleeving: MDPC-X (This is the best & very easy to get over almost any wire).

Terminals: I prefer using Gold plated(Better Contact and prevents corrosion, Their is zero issues using Silver & Gold plated versions together), This is where it comes difficult. Most places only carry Silver terminals. I buy my terminals direct from Moddiy, Ice-modz or Singularity Computers(Singularity having the best version, Moddiy has a good selection as well). The international shipping is very reasonable. Only down side is may have to wait 10 days for your items unless you use express shipping.

Connectors: I know they all look the same, Their is a bit of a difference between them. The most commonly connector found is made by HWT or LHE (Fans). I prefer using JMT, these are the same connectors used on Titanium lines from EVGA & Corsair. Their very high quality & last a bit longer (HWT seem to get dented more easily). If you want JMT I suggest buying from Singularity computers, Since their cheaper their compared to moddiy(Moddiy seem to overcharges for them. They want 2 dollars per connector(You also get the terminals with them which are gold plated). Also if you can't get ahold of JMT I find TKG a very good second choice.

HeatShrink: I only use 3/16″ from MainFrameCustoms. I have used other sizes with mixed results. Some have a much lower max heat point (Which heatshrink will break). Others take much longer before the melting process will start. I go with the thinnest heatshrink possible that will fit over MDPC-X. *Place the heatshrink on the sleeving before threading the wire through, Since it's allot harder to get the heatshrink onto sleeving after the wire has been threaded. When you have Y Cables or double crimped wires you will need to use 1/4" heatshrink. Their also glued versions of heatshrink available for those cables you can't use heatshrinkless one like dupont or fan cables using MDPC-X sleeving.

Tools:
A: Hakko CHP-170 Flush Cutter (I use this to cut wiring to sleeving). It has a carbon top which makes allot strong then anything made out of metal.
B: Knipex Self Adjusting Wire Stripper (It makes a 6mm cut & completely removes the wire without any issue, well worth the money)
C: X-Acto Z Series Knife (Only needed if your going to use punch down connectors (Sata & Molex), Other wise no need for this item.
D: MDPC-X Crimp Tool (This will crimp all your terminals from ATX to Fans.
E: Original MOLEX Pinremover - MDPC-X Edition (Used to remove any ATX terminals already placed in a connector or you can use Lampton 5 in one tool.
F: Victorinox Swiss Army (I use this to remove fan terminals from the connectors. Mine is bit different, since mine is over 20 years old. It will do the same job (Just don't use the sharp point, It will damage the terminal). I also use this for watercooling, It comes in very handy.
G: Soldering Iron (This is for all your double crimped wires that's in the ATX & GPU). It's easier to solder two wire together then double crimping two 16AWG wires, Sleeving those wires & some how try to get them inside the connector. It's doable, But it's very difficult(I have done it with my one ATX cable, I later ditched it & went with soldering method). I also use soldering iron for my Sata & molex cables, This way I don't have to daisy chain wires together. Not to mention daisy chain method for sata power cables can put stress on the Harddrive connectors, specially if their very close together like SSD are. For those people not willing to solder, Icemodz offers pre-soldered wires for ATX & GPU from 30cm to 60cm in length.




^
Double crimp in a single port hole, When you do this you can't use cable combs. Not the best example since the burning & sleeving is a mess. Another reason why I don't favor double crimp wires on a single port holes. It requires more melting so the two wires melt together & stay attached.

H: Lighters (You don't need anything expensive, just buy a few outdoor lighters from the dollar store).

Crimping: is straight forward place the wire inside the terminal & push down. I pre-crimp it to some degree before place the wire inside the terminal, so the wire locks inside the terminal & doesn't move around. Do not allow the unexposed part of the wire to go past the second crimping point.

Melting Process: Make sure the sleeving is hanging a bit over the first crimp, place the heatshrink so it passes over that point & covers the second crimp, But does not touch the two pins stick up from the terminal. Now using the lighter heat the area of the first crimp (you will heat top, bottom, Left & right) each for five seconds. You will now quickly pinch what you just heated (you can roll it too if you want)(Be carefully as it will be hot, try not to burn your self). Now heat the top & bottom only for 3 seconds & quickly cut away the heatshrink.

If done right it should turn out like this:





Cable Combs: I personally favor anything from mnpctech, They are heavy duty aluminum or carbon fiber (They will not break). Most other companies use cheap plastic or acrylic. If you want closed combs which mnpctech does not offer. I find icemodz are very good quality. You can buy them directly from icemodz or Mod-One. They no longer make Sata combs for those select few who actually used those type of combs. They still make the molex ones.
post #548 of 587
Thread Starter 


Seems Cablemod has now releasing kits for Corsair Dominator Platinum. Their very expensive if you need to replace all eight of the ram sticks. It would be 120 dollars to do so.

If you just need the extra colors MainFrameCustoms sells all the colors expect blue & white. They also have some UV colors too.
Edited by Revan654 - 4/26/17 at 3:17pm
post #549 of 587
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

Seems Cablemod has now releasing kits for Corsair Dominator Platinum. Their very expensive if you need to replace all eight of the ram sticks. It would be 120 dollars to do so.

If you just need the extra colors MainFrameCustoms sells all the colors expect blue & white. They also have some UV colors too.

And even if you buy direct from corsair, after shipping (unless they have a sale discounting it) you'll have to spend around $100 just to have only silver bars with white/blue options... so all in all, the Cablemod kits aren't much worse. If I hadn't been doing a silver themed build anyway (with only white lighting)... I would be all over these.
post #550 of 587
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiGiCiDAL View Post

And even if you buy direct from corsair, after shipping (unless they have a sale discounting it) you'll have to spend around $100 just to have only silver bars with white/blue options... so all in all, the Cablemod kits aren't much worse. If I hadn't been doing a silver themed build anyway (with only white lighting)... I would be all over these.

Corsair shipping is 4 dollars(On most products). Corsair did give you two free packs when you buy direct from them (Not sure if they still do that or not). That's how I got most of my blue bars.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Build Logs
Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] Project Frost - Case-Labs THW10 | X99 Watercooled | i7 6950X | Titan X