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[Scratchbuild] [Buildlog] 3D-mania by Grim

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
3D-Mania
By Grim

Hello and welcome to my second attempt at a proper scratchbuild.
The idea started a little over a year ago when I started getting more deeply interested in computer modding and styling, and since then I've tried and failed at a custom build.
Learning from my mistakes and taking what I know and adapting it to my new project brought me here.



Introduction

The case will be 3D-printed in full, with the exception of the larger panels where I will either have them laser-cut, or dremel-cut. It will fit a full-size ATX motherboard, space for 3 radiators and also some room for a hardline custum loop. The case will be mashed with different video-game references - Which ones will be uncovered along the way, but if you with for anything special (And 3d-printable) just shout out suggestions and lets make this as messy as possible.

The 3d-printed parts will be made using PLA+ plastic on a Makerbot Replicator 2, and for the laser-cut parts I am still looking for a local supplier, if not I'll order it somewhere.

Here is a quick and dirty render of what it should resemble once it gets put together.


The frame of the case will be matte black, and the motherboard tray will either be pastel blue or matte white (have not yet decided).


Hardware
Motherboard: Asus z170 Sabertooth S
CPU: Intel I7-6700k
GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW
RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 4x4gb, 2800mhz
Storage: 1 Intel 535 480gb SSD, 2xSamsung 850 PRO 128gb in raid 0, 2x samsung 850 PRO 256gb
PSU: Corsair AX760


Cooling
1 EK 360 PE
2 EK 240 SE (Slim)
1 EK D5 Revo
1 EK Supremacy EVO Clear / Nickel
1 EK-FC 1080 FTW - Nickel
1 EK-FC FTW Backplate - nickel
A huge amount of different EK fittings and adapters
10 EK Vardar 120mm fans

I know my triple-rad settup is way overkill for single GPU + CPU, but my plans are to expand to SLI in the future. I also like a silent system so having the fans run at 800 rpm is ideal for me.
I also plan to paralel-cool the GPU and CPU. From what I can tell there should not affect the performance that much, given that I use low-resistance blocks and have a powerful pump.
post #2 of 24
Thread Starter 
Printing stuff

Printing out the pieces is going fine. Each and every piece takes a few hours to print out, due to the infil settings and temp choices. I am doing a mix of high and low temps with high infil to create a higher tensile strenght on the pieces, in addition to prevent warping and disformation.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I printed a mount for the PSU into the frame of the case, in an attempt to make it take as little space as possible while aligning it with the 24pin for shorter cable management. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

It's a perfect fit!

I also started on putting the printed pieces together. Each and every single piece is getting a treatment with the dremel and some low-grit sandpaper to smooth out the endges and make everything fit. Sanding PLA+ plastic is hard, as the moment you go a little to fast you melt it, and it becomes solid as f***. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

And finally some hardware pictures. Some of these items have arrived earlier this summer, and some of them are new. These are the items going into this build!
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)









While the rest of the case is printing and getting assembled the next project is to decide what paint (and how) to use on the case.
For the frame my original plan is to use matte black, and then use a matte-white interior with colored accents. What do you guys think I should opt for?
GPU block is nickel, with nickel backplate. Most of the fittings are nickel and some are black and the coolant will be mayhems pastel blue.
post #3 of 24
i like the idea of mostly black and white with a small pop of color. Perhaps a burnt orange, or a royal purple?

Either way really neat project, subbed!
post #4 of 24
Subbed wheee.gif
     
CPUMotherboardGraphicsHard Drive
AMD Threadripper 1900x Asus Prime X399-A Asus GTX 980 ti Matrix Samsung 960 Evo 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOS
Intel 750 Series 400GB U.2 Samsung 850 Pro 512 GB Samsung 850 Pro 512 GB Windows 10 Pro 
PowerCase
Seasonic 1050w 80+ Gold Corsair Air 740 
CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
i7 6800k Xeon e5-1620 V3 EVGA Micro 2 Asus GTX 780 
GraphicsGraphicsRAMRAM
Sapphire Fury X Sapphire RX 480 Kingston - FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 ADATA - XPG Z1 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400  
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB Kingston - SSDNow V200 be quiet! - PURE ROCK Windows 10 Pro 
PowerCase
Corsair HX850i Thermaltake Core V21 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 6600k Asus Z170i Pro Gaming Sapphire R9 Nano Kingston FURY 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 950 Pro 512 GB be quiet! ​PURE ROCK ​SLIM Windows 10 Pro ViewSonic XG2401 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
MK Disco RGB TKL (KBT Brown) Athena AP-MFATX40 400W Flex-ATX Lian-Li PC-TU 100B Razer Mamba TE 
Mouse PadAudioAudioAudio
Razer Firefly Cloth Schiit Fulla 2 Beyerdynam​ic DT 770 ​Pro 80 ohm Antlion Audio ModMic 4 w/ Mute 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Noctua NF-A9x14 (x2) Fractal Design FD-FAN-SSR2-92 Fractal Design FD-FAN-SSR2-60 (x2) Fractal Design GP12-WT 
  hide details  
Reply
     
CPUMotherboardGraphicsHard Drive
AMD Threadripper 1900x Asus Prime X399-A Asus GTX 980 ti Matrix Samsung 960 Evo 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOS
Intel 750 Series 400GB U.2 Samsung 850 Pro 512 GB Samsung 850 Pro 512 GB Windows 10 Pro 
PowerCase
Seasonic 1050w 80+ Gold Corsair Air 740 
CPUCPUMotherboardGraphics
i7 6800k Xeon e5-1620 V3 EVGA Micro 2 Asus GTX 780 
GraphicsGraphicsRAMRAM
Sapphire Fury X Sapphire RX 480 Kingston - FURY 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 ADATA - XPG Z1 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400  
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB Kingston - SSDNow V200 be quiet! - PURE ROCK Windows 10 Pro 
PowerCase
Corsair HX850i Thermaltake Core V21 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 6600k Asus Z170i Pro Gaming Sapphire R9 Nano Kingston FURY 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Samsung 950 Pro 512 GB be quiet! ​PURE ROCK ​SLIM Windows 10 Pro ViewSonic XG2401 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
MK Disco RGB TKL (KBT Brown) Athena AP-MFATX40 400W Flex-ATX Lian-Li PC-TU 100B Razer Mamba TE 
Mouse PadAudioAudioAudio
Razer Firefly Cloth Schiit Fulla 2 Beyerdynam​ic DT 770 ​Pro 80 ohm Antlion Audio ModMic 4 w/ Mute 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Noctua NF-A9x14 (x2) Fractal Design FD-FAN-SSR2-92 Fractal Design FD-FAN-SSR2-60 (x2) Fractal Design GP12-WT 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty elf View Post

i like the idea of mostly black and white with a small pop of color. Perhaps a burnt orange, or a royal purple?

Either way really neat project, subbed!

I have a custom acrylic motherboard tray on the inbounds in pastel blue, as well as pastel blue mayhems dye.
Perhaps I should paint the fans and / or SSD's in a orange / red color? That would also break apart from the blue.. Could also change some of the interior sheets and walls to break or or match the color.

Here are two different color-mashes that I am looking at. I really wish I was better at using CAD or design software. Luckily I found Tinkercad, which is perfect as I can also make both 3d-printable and laser-cuttable designs, sadly the color and lightning-effects are non-existant.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I might have to change the "middle" panel color to something different. I still have not decided if I am going to mount the SSD's flat in the bottom, in front of the motherboard, on vertically in the mid-panel, behind the reservior and tubing. I have a total of 5 SSDs, might not end up using all either. Don't know if Raid 0 is worth the hassle or not.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Simmons572 View Post

Subbed wheee.gif

Thanks biggrin.gif


I have finished building the frame and started applying the primer to it, so that whatever color the frame gets it's the same.
You can probably tell from the pictures that I have used different types of PLA for printing. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

The white on is regular PLA+ plastic, chosen for tensile strenght and sturdiness. The black is a carbon-fiber-metal-mashup, and thus it allows some current to run through it. I intended to use this for some pieces that are connected to the PSU and motherboard in other to have grounding, just like you would in a metal case (PSU Screws into the metal-frame). The silver is a FlexPLA that is very strong, but not as brittle as regular PLA can be. This is to dampen vibrations and allow to reduce surface-tension across the build. When the mid-plate (which is made from a wood and metal-combosition) is in place, it will connect all the black and silver allowing "movement" in the frame to be transfered to the softer beams, while still having the firmness from the hard PLA frame.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Priming - Stage 1 of 3
post #6 of 24
In my opinion a RAID 0 with SSDs is only useful if you care about benchmark scores. In practice I doubt you will notice a speed difference.

Can you provide more detail about the carbon/metal 3D print material? Possibly link a datasheet? Very interesting!
post #7 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty elf View Post

In my opinion a RAID 0 with SSDs is only useful if you care about benchmark scores. In practice I doubt you will notice a speed difference.

Can you provide more detail about the carbon/metal 3D print material? Possibly link a datasheet? Very interesting!

Edit: Then I might as well sell of some of the drives, instead of using 5 separate ones. 3 drives should by far be enough! I do not care for harddrive benchmarks, and I don't see any reason SSD-r/w speed should have any real world effect on games.

I have dual-extrusion addon to my makerbot, so I am using these two materials (interlacing layers)

https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/exotic-composite-pla/products/carbon-fiber-pla
https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/exotic-composite-pla/products/conductive-pla

I printed the "conductor beams" using 0.1mm layers (100 microns) then had the printer changing filament every two layers, giving me several independent layers of conductivitiy. As the carbon fiber filament should not be conductive, but the graphite is, this should in theory allow me to separate the "grounding" layers. Static should, in any event, be minimal. This is just a precation to discharge any possible static buildup that might occur from whatever source it just randomly apperas in acrylics is. Initial testing shows that using a 200 micron layer of insulation is enough to prevent light-beams and separate current flows. This material obviously does not work to run actual currents, but the small static discharges that might occur does not have a high enough volt/ampere-something-that-is-probably-pretty-scientifically-sounding-ratio.

Here are some whitepaper and a link to the original kick-starter campaign where I first learned of, and got my hands on, this filament.
Volume resistivity of 3D printed parts perpendicular to layers: 30 ohm-cm
Volume resistivity of 3D printed parts through layers (along Z axis): 115 ohm-cm

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1375236253/electrically-conductive-pla-3d-printer-filament
post #8 of 24
awesome info, thanks!
post #9 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty elf View Post

awesome info, thanks!

Just remember it is captain experiment and professor Google that tought me these stuff, so I'll do some testning with our powerstation.

The first coat of primer and isolators are on, and the next spray Will be a matte, white finish. Now these parts won't be visible, but I still like to have it properly done.

Do anyone of you guys have any tips of Someone who cuts acrylics to order? EU prefferably.
post #10 of 24
Thread Starter 
The frame

After finishing coating the frame in white I treated the frame with a hardening, glossy coating. Must say that the results are better than I expected. You might not tell from the pictures but it is both harder and have a glossy finnish, and feels extremely smooth to touch.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Doing some testing on the frame shows that the stability is very good. When applying a 5kg preasure on one side, the frame does not twist more than 0.5 cm, which is way within what the materials can handle. The frame is sturdy enough for me to sit on, so am not worried about it not holding up.

I recieved a shipment of goodies from EK the other day, but I haven't had the time to pick up the parts yet. Pictures to come thumb.gif

Also considering changing the layout to have the graphic card vertical instead of horizontal. What do you think about this
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

(Please ignore the very professional made drawings of the tubes, I somehow ruinied those in the model and if I try to change them it just gets f***** up.
vs

6cef7e6b_QW9Kb6c.png


Quote:
Originally Posted by grimboso View Post


I have dual-extrusion addon to my makerbot, so I am using these two materials (interlacing layers)

https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/exotic-composite-pla/products/carbon-fiber-pla
https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/exotic-composite-pla/products/conductive-pla

Did some testing on the static discharge capability of these beams, and I must say that it sort of works. If I build up any static and touch any metal connected to these, there is nothing powering down (testing on an old GT9800-card), but if I don't have the frame attached to these beams the computer reboots from the static charge. Seems like I got it to work as I wanted!
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