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Iodine in loop

post #1 of 31
Thread Starter 
I have searched the Net for topics about this because I found one review site that did a radiator roundup with iodine as the biocide in their loop.

I found that some people are using tincture (iodine and sodium iodide in 45% alcohol plus water) and some are using Lugol's solution (iodine and potassium iodide in water). The suggestion for tincture is to put some of it on a plate and let the alcohol evaporate.

The issue I am wondering about, though is this:
Quote:
Sodium iodide is soluble in water, methanol and acetone. The sodium iodide solubility varies from water to other liquids. It is also easily soluble in cold water, hot water and is partially soluble in methanol and acetone. Sodium iodide is a stable product. This product is highly reactive with metals, oxidizing agents and with acids. It’s another important property is that it is corrosive in nature. It is highly corrosive in the presence of aluminium, zinc and copper.

Even though the amount necessary is small the "highly corrosive" part doesn't sound good. I assume it's the galvanic action of sodium ions.

People using iodine have claimed they haven't had a problem but perhaps potassium iodide (Lugol's) is safer than sodium.

There is also a "de-colorized" version with ammonium iodide and potassium iodide, as well as povidone.
post #2 of 31
So whats the point? Is iodine the only thing you have available where your at to act as a biocide? Because there is lots of good water cooling manufacturers at this point that make excellent biocides without the need to experiment anymore.
 
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post #3 of 31
Thread Starter 
The points are in the opening post.
post #4 of 31
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post #5 of 31
As a chemist I would say NO! Do not use sodium iodide in your loop. Potassium iodide is compatible with copper, sodium iodide is less so.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance
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post #6 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asmodian View Post

As a chemist I would say NO! Do not use sodium iodide in your loop. Potassium iodide is compatible with copper, sodium iodide is less so.

http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance
That's what I was thinking. Lugol is probably the better choice. I wonder if povidone or ammonium iodide ("de-colorized") are heat stable.
post #7 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

The points are in the opening post.

I think Radnad's point is, what's the reason behind wanting to use this instead of one of the many available and proven solutions?

Is there a benefit of some kind? I'm sure we'd all like to know.
post #8 of 31
Thread Starter 
Enough threadcrapping. If you don't know the answers to my questions then just move on.
post #9 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by superstition222 View Post

Quote:
Sodium iodide is soluble in water, methanol and acetone. The sodium iodide solubility varies from water to other liquids. It is also easily soluble in cold water, hot water and is partially soluble in methanol and acetone. Sodium iodide is a stable product. This product is highly reactive with metals, oxidizing agents and with acids. It’s another important property is that it is corrosive in nature. It is highly corrosive in the presence of aluminum, zinc and copper.
.
The issue is that the Iodine ions in solution react with the mentioned metals and thus rapidly depletes the Iodine ions in solution and the pathogenic properties being sought.

This is not a good idea.
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post #10 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

The issue is that the Iodine ions in solution react with the mentioned metals and thus rapidly depletes the Iodine ions in solution and the pathogenic properties being sought.

This is not a good idea.
Is this true for all iodine compounds and/or elemental iodine? People in multiple topics claimed they had years of good performance using iodine. I have only read one horror story in about a dozen topics on this. One person claimed that two drops coated all of the metal in his loop with a black compound which seems hard to believe unless his "laboratory" iodine was super-concentrated. It may have been elemental iodine as well.

Others said iodine was effective. Also, one person here said potassium iodide should be OK, unlike sodium.

I got white precipitated particles with EK coolant (colorless variety) plus distilled water, along with a greenish sludge. The sludge only happened in one radiator, the lowest point of the loop. The water was just barely cloudy and not greenish. I am wondering what those white particles are. The computer sat for three months in warm ambient conditions so perhaps that coolant needs more frequent usage to remain in solution. Even running the loop, though, including with Prime testing (before I discovered the precipitates after taking the loop apart) didn't cause the white particles to redissolve.

My local Micro Center (a two hour drive both ways) did not have the clear coolant concentrate in stock so I was hoping to make my own coolant to save money on shipping. I also don't know if the EK has ethylene glycol in it. I'd prefer propylene instead because of its lack of toxicity. Also, MANY people have claimed they have run loops without glycols and not had corrosion issues.

I am also wondering about molybdate corrosion inhibitor. Has anyone tried that by itself rather than mixed with problematic compounds (i.e. Red Line Water Wetter)?
Edited by superstition222 - 9/13/16 at 10:30am
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